Tired of Researching!! 310g Build

DawgDiggity

New member
I have spent countless hours on the Large Reef Tank forum researching builds. Here are a few pictures of my upcoming build:
726.jpg
Soon to be FishRoom
726011.jpg
Current 55g

I have framed a wall beside the electrical panels and the tank side will be covered with FRP board for protection. I have also built platforms (48x30 and 74x30) for DSB, Frag and Display Tanks. I am planning to have a 125g display, 55g DSB with seagrass and mangroves, 10g Macro Algae Tank, and a 10g Frag tank, with a 100g sump.

I have been collecting equipment since December. I currently have a 8x54w T5 Nova, 175w Dual PFO MH (Display), 16.5" 70w MH Sunpod(Frag), and various flourescent fixtures (Macro and Grass). The pumps I have recently acquired are the Panworld 100px-x, and a Poseidon PS2.

I have done the least research on the seagrass and mangroves. I have seen posts showing mangroves growing well under flourescent reflector flood bulbs Fuge, Macro, Mangrove Lighting

Can't wait to get theses tanks setup! I have a canister filter on my 55g now and have extremely high nitrates. I am most excited about the macro tank. And the mangroves, seagrass... plus the opportunity to add more tangs to my display!

I tried using sketchup but sad to admit that I could not pick up the skills quick enough. I am a good drawer and just have sketches and measurements I am working from. After I have the initial setup built, I will need help with a plumbing layout!
 
I built a fishroom in my basement for my 180 that I have upstairs. Having all the extra room for equipment sure is nice.
 
Thanks for the comments. Eyebedamned, post some pics of your fishroom. I'd be interested to see your setup to reference questions to you. I will post some more pics this week when I have time to work more on the build. I will definitely need help on plumbing and appropriate electrical supply.

Chris, great article also found this one: Natural Nitrate Reduction If you are thinking about adding some mangroves to your sump check out the thread for a group buy through Reef Cleaners.

Check this out: Macro Tank
This is what I want to add to my system!
 
Aight, not much progress. Came home today and began doing a little work. About to drill into block wall to anchor these stands, then thought I might let my next door neighbor who lives just above know(live in a duplex). I woke her up from a nap and she was going back to lay down...
82001.jpg

Used Dual 175MH look at this monster
<a href="http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk254/DawgDiggity/?action=view&current=82002.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk254/DawgDiggity/82002.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Took a nap, back at it
 
Here is what I got built.
build001.jpg


Here is the electrical panel I have to tap into. I will probably use the two open circuits on the right.
build004.jpg


The new 10g will be my macro tank. The lower shelf will be the DSB with mangroves and seagrass. Behind the 10g macro will be a couple surge buckets for the DSB tank.

Need suggestions on a RO/DI unit. I spent $20 last round at the LFS for topoff and saltwater. Doing this x2 a month is not feasible.

If there is a sticker on the bottom that says tempered, that doesn't necessarily mean the side walls of the tank are tempered does it?
 
Haven't seen fuses in a while. Make sure your outlets are grounded.

RE RO/DI -- there is an MTRC discount (10%) at Air Water Ice. They have a really nice system (the typhoon III). There are a bunch of those around the club. PM or email me if you are interested in the club discount code.
 
Wow... I somehow missed this the first time around.

Looks awesome Dawg! I can't wait to see the macro tank.

One word of warning, though... I think you're definitely going to very quickly want a much larger frag tank than 10g. ;) Something wide and flat is ideal because then you have a lot of room for frags and its shallow so the lighting works out better (less water to penetrate).

I have a Typhoon III and LOVE it! They're great!

And correct on the sticker. If you know the manufacturer, I would call them and ask about the sides. Sometimes they are tempered as well.

Looks like fun, bro!

Brandon
 
If you want to avoid some problems you may want to see if you can find an elect to change panels out then you can put breakers in and also you can use gfi breakers to be real safe.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. Went by Tractor Supply today to look at my future 100g sump. Took her for a quick test drive and I think I'm ready to commit. The only reason I didn't pick her up is because she won't fit into the volkswagen. 53"L x 24H x 32W

Brandon, because of limited space I am actually going to start without a frag tank. At least until I get this setup built, work on the trucks and car, then get bored. Wayne, I have added a 220 breaker panel for some shop equipment, I am glad you mentioned it for the tank setup. It would also guarrantee that I have a ground wire to my plugs. As far as the sides of the aquarium being tempered here is an email from AGA that I found. I had all the original paperwork for the tank and remember it being AGA. If something goes wrong with drilling I will definitely have a backup plan, and estimate, with a local glass co.

Hello,

Our tempered aquariums start at 37gals and up. Only the bottoms are tempered. Thank-you for your time and interest in All-Glass Products.

All-Glass Aquarium

Customer Service

Maria Ritzow

mariar at all-glass_com

1-800-255-4527 x1234

Receiving the macros as soon as I give John the green light. I will be ordering the Typhoon III tommorow so long as Jack grants me the secret code. Spent half the night perfecting the MTRC handshake. Meeting him in an isolated parking lot tommorow at sunrise and if I pass, the secret code is mine!

I have a couple online plumbing suppliers from other build threads. Anyone have suggestions or experience with SAVKO or Harvel PVC?
Later
 
I used some SAVKO true union ball valves and unions on my build. Great to deal with and the ball valves are much smoother than ones from Lowes or Home Depot. They cost a little more but seem worth it to me.
 
I purchased Gate Valves, Loc-line, and misc fittings from Savco before. Liked them a lot.

Also, do you have a drill press that you can use for drilling the tank? I'd REALLY recommend it, or rigging up some other means of keeping the holesaw steady when you start out. Problem with drilling free-hand is as soon as the bit starts grinding the glass, your pool of water around the hole gets cloudy, and you can not see the saw making contact with the glass surface.

I drilled 2 holes in my tank, and during the 2nd hole, the holesaw moved after I had started the inital Groove in the glass, but didn't notice. So I ended up with a Hole, and a groove for a hole next to it.
(I'll take a picture tonite)
So I've gota fill in the groove with some superglue.

Next time I'm going to build a little brace for the holesaw.

I wasn't worried about messing up the tank too much. Told myself if I screwed it up, I'll just go get a RR tank, but if I don't, I've learned a few things, and saved some money (More important! :P ).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13099021#post13099021 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mnemic
Next time I'm going to build a little brace for the holesaw.

That is all it takes......just make a guide slightly larger than the hole saw. You'll get perfect holes every time.
 
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