In his book, Fenner states specifically that a freshwater dip should be done for all incoming fishes.
Tomini Tang Unexplained Death
- Thread starter VanMarine
- Start date
In his book, Fenner states specifically that a freshwater dip should be done for all incoming fishes.
Sonicblast12
New member
Another reason a quarantine tank is a must.
It really isn't that hard, you just have to remember to test the LFS water. When acclimating, you never want to go "up" unless you absolutely have to. If getting a fish from a local store, test the water from the tank the fish was in. Go home and make adjustments to your salinity to match the LFS while leaving the fish sealed in the bag, don't open the bag. Then you can float the sealed back and temperature match since everything else should be the same. A lot shorter and a lot less stressful acclimation.
For fish that have been in shipping bags, I recommend pulling the QT down to 1.020 before the fish arrives so there is almost no chance of having to go "up." Do not open the bag. Float and release. If you open the bag and test the specific gravity of the water and acclimate to match, you have to do it very quickly...30 minutes or less. As soon as air hits the shipping bag, that water turns poison almost instantly. It's usually best to just get the fish in clean water as soon as possible.
Having a display at 1.026 and a LFS at 1.020 with no quarantine...there are going to be a lot of unexplained deaths. But if your LFS is at 1.026 and you are at 1.020...no problems. You can go down almost immediately, but you can only go up gradually over a period of hours...or days if the difference is great enough.
For example, you can pull a fish down to hyposalinity in two hours, but it should take a week to get back to normal seawater.
After doing research and learning some lessons the hard way, I've used the above methods and have not lost a fish to acclimation. The biggest key is to have a plan going in...and get everything as close as possible to reduce the stress on the fish.
It really isn't that hard, you just have to remember to test the LFS water. When acclimating, you never want to go "up" unless you absolutely have to. If getting a fish from a local store, test the water from the tank the fish was in. Go home and make adjustments to your salinity to match the LFS while leaving the fish sealed in the bag, don't open the bag. Then you can float the sealed back and temperature match since everything else should be the same. A lot shorter and a lot less stressful acclimation.
For fish that have been in shipping bags, I recommend pulling the QT down to 1.020 before the fish arrives so there is almost no chance of having to go "up." Do not open the bag. Float and release. If you open the bag and test the specific gravity of the water and acclimate to match, you have to do it very quickly...30 minutes or less. As soon as air hits the shipping bag, that water turns poison almost instantly. It's usually best to just get the fish in clean water as soon as possible.
Having a display at 1.026 and a LFS at 1.020 with no quarantine...there are going to be a lot of unexplained deaths. But if your LFS is at 1.026 and you are at 1.020...no problems. You can go down almost immediately, but you can only go up gradually over a period of hours...or days if the difference is great enough.
For example, you can pull a fish down to hyposalinity in two hours, but it should take a week to get back to normal seawater.
After doing research and learning some lessons the hard way, I've used the above methods and have not lost a fish to acclimation. The biggest key is to have a plan going in...and get everything as close as possible to reduce the stress on the fish.
Sonicblast12
New member
triple post
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Sonicblast12
New member
sorry...
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Sonicblast12
New member
Nothing to see here...
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