Top down shots

Nice to see their custom report page is still working.

What do you think about the 420 diodes they use? My 20K with only the blues and violets running is a mix of 405, 420, 450 and 470.
 
Hey Ed,...on the T5 combo subject,...if 3 bulbs should it be B+C+B+ then for 4 bulb? 2 B+ and 2 C+ and if you get to 5 bulb then your at 3 B+ 2 C+ ect ect. thanks in advance,---Rick
 
Nice to see their custom report page is still working.

What do you think about the 420 diodes they use? My 20K with only the blues and violets running is a mix of 405, 420, 450 and 470.

Hi Mark,

Honestly, I'm not the go to guy on the brands & tech info on the diodes.

I know SemiLed is one the manufacturers ..............suppliers can probably help more......from what I know BML used top bin diodes.

As a side note I know 21Led has an actinic strip. One of my friend's has been using one for quite some time and likes it. He eliminated the reds from the strip.

--------------------------------------

For anyone wanting to DIY---

I'd get some info from someone like Rapid or other suppliers if someone wants to DIY something---
http://www.rapidled.com/solderless-semileds-violet-uv-led-410-420nm/

Someone in the DIY section can probably add more as far as wattages, performance, design, ect.

I just know what spectrums are needed for pigments and chromo proteins to be satisfied across the board for most acros. In that respect your mix looks fine to me.
 
Hey Ed,...on the T5 combo subject,...if 3 bulbs should it be B+C+B+ then for 4 bulb? 2 B+ and 2 C+ and if you get to 5 bulb then your at 3 B+ 2 C+ ect ect. thanks in advance,---Rick

I can only tell you I use a 50-50 combo on even number bulbs. Experiment on what you prefer in respect to more ambient blue or white on the odd bulb combos.
 
Hi Mark,

Honestly, I'm not the go to guy on the brands & tech info on the diodes.


Thanks Ed. I was referring to the 420nm wavelength rather than the diode maker, sorry about that. I'm nervous even turning the things on but the 420's really make some of the colors pop.
 
If it was me here is the two options I'd choose--

1. Buy an ATI Sunpower fixture if your tank is dominant Sps.

2. Add two more T5 bulbs to make 4 total and keep what you have. The sols are skewed with too many cool white diodes and no violets or neutral whites. Two more T5 bulbs can fix that and add what is missing. Then run the white in the sols at about 20-25% of the blues.

------------------------------------------------

Just to be clear on the 450 strips .......they're workable as supplements for T5s, but the 400-470 diode mix would be better. I'd also want a controller for each color.

Something like this---

http://www.bmlcustom.com/custom-report-details/?partNo=PS4890S101LMJLMLLJLLMLJML

BML is out of the aquarium business, but there are other companies that can make custom strips or you can make one yourself.

If you just use a single spectrum strip at least have a controller and run them for dawn /dusk and/or for viewing pleasure when you're home.
Interesting fact, LEDs can be desoldered from the puks of AI Sol's and new ones installed. When I bought these they had several blues burnt out. So I soldered in two UV semi led 410-420 per fixture. I was thinking about adding several neutral whites as well..

On the bulb issue I have no room for two more bulbs on my tank. I am sps dominate, but I do have a soft spot in my heart for that midnight blue light only given off by led. If I had to. I would consider adding two more retro fits, and a reef brites after removing the sols, or another option could be to upgrade Sol's to hydras?

Very good insight here.. Thanks
 
Thanks Ed. I was referring to the 420nm wavelength rather than the diode maker, sorry about that. I'm nervous even turning the things on but the 420's really make some of the colors pop.

I see, this the custom actinic that BML came up with....check the link on post #5. That is supposed to be an VHO actinic mimic. This is the one I would prefer using. I wouldn't be afraid to use your strip, especially because of the fact they have that mixing shield on it.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2497920

I believe this is the one Gary M. got and he loves it. Not exactly sure when he first posts it was installed.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1859075&page=27

I've been dragging my feet on this supplement part for a long time. I actually have a few Geismann T5 actinics I'm going to try first as I had all the hardware already.

My whole idea is to try to mimic a 400w Radium with VHO actinics but with T5's and using the custom LED strips for supplementing.
 
Last edited:
Great information, Ed. Curious about your opinion on the GE 6500k lamp. Any consideration in a 6 bulb fixture or just stick to the c+ and b+?
 
Great information, Ed. Curious about your opinion on the GE 6500k lamp. Any consideration in a 6 bulb fixture or just stick to the c+ and b+?

I tried one years ago and didn't like it mainly because it was too yellow for my tastes & I didn't see any real benefit.

I prefer the 50-50 combo regardless of number of bulbs. This creates a seamless consistent spectrum & par across the whole tank.

The actinic bulbs or LEDs for bling are not part of that setup and are extra on the outside where you can aim them to cross or for better spread.........these are strictly for looks.

I can see planting some actinic/LED in the center also if the tank is wide.........30"+ from front to back.
 
Morning Ed,

Hey just a quick question. Seems like you still collect new corals from time to time. If so, do you have a quarantine tank or do you treat the new additions somehow to prevent the introduction of AEFWs. Just wondering.

Thanks!

Joe
 
Hi Joe,

I have a QT/frag tank and try to put new frags in it but it has been full at times and put frags in the display. I have a new 60g deep blue rimless I'm going to set up soon to fix this. I also want backups of my main colonies in case of an unexpected loss in the display.

I dip all new arrivals in Bayer
 
Hi Joe,

I have a QT/frag tank and try to put new frags in it but it has been full at times and put frags in the display. I have a new 60g deep blue rimless I'm going to set up soon to fix this. I also want backups of my main colonies in case of an unexpected loss in the display.

I dip all new arrivals in Bayer

Do have a general concentration and duration for the Bayer bath or do you alter it depending on the coral?
 
Hi Ed,

Your tank looks wonderful as ever.

You said a while ago that you would stop carbon dosing and over skim your tank water instead. Is this still your nutrient control strategy?

Thanks

Bulent
 
I use oversized skimmers so I don't have to rely on other export tools. It's the old school Berlin bare bottom setup................High flow and heavy skimming. This what I have done mainly for 20 years. It is a bacterial driven system when you come down to it.

The current needle wheel skimmers make this harder as they don't process nearly as much water as the old beckett and venturi skimmers nor have the large reaction chambers.

Everything has gone to making sure it's quiet and fits under a tank stand so doing this is harder than it used to be. The external needle wheels can come close to performance and what I used for about 8 years...........Deltec ap703 rated for a 500g system tank I ran on a 160g system.

Since the Rimless tank has been on line I occasionally run GFO with my Amaxx Cone 3. It's rated for 400g and my system is 90g.
It comes down to how much I feed the fish and the overall fish load.

I added 7 smaller type fish, mainly anthias over the past two months and used a carbon source to get things back in line............we'll see where this leads. I'm weaning the tank off it now as I'm only dosing 2mls a day.


My frag tank is an 50g system currently with just the Amaxx Cone S 1 and I'm getting zero nutrients. It's been hard to keep them up, but I only have two clownfish in that tank.
 
Ed, question for you. I have a 48/48/24 cube built from acrylic. The eurobraced opening on top is 36/33. I currently run 4 rapidled knock off of the radion lights, I am considering switching to t5 as I move my tank more towards SPS. How many bulbs do you think would work?

Corey
 
Been following your thread. You have some excellent acros. Your methods are tried and tested. Simple is best. I run a similar set up but don't dose carbon. Just can't get that extra richness from acros coloring up. They tend to be more towards the green and yellow side. Are you still carbon dosing? If so what do you dose? And have you ever tried BA's Reef Fuel?
 
Back
Top