After to read all the post, let me ask you something. I understand that no3 and po4 levels are not much important if are close to zero or not, if you export all that you generate. Right?
Yes, the goal is to have a high energy system without letting algae get out of control. That's why people have success with PO4 from 0-.10 and Nitrates from .25-10.
It's a lot easier to have some readings, so there's a little more to go around. If there's too much surplus the algae sucks it up.
To me, the ratios are more important than the actual numbers.........get in the ballpark range, so to speak, and then you let the corals growth and color direct things. When everything looks good is when your test numbers have actual value.......those become the targets.
That's why I say most people do it azz backwards........they try to force the system into some strict numbers and wonder why the corals aren't responding.
Light is clear too.
But I don't have aclear opinion about how to feed the corals. During the last times I collect all the zeovit products, now all the aquaforst products.... Is it Necessary?
No..........all the same aminos, vitamins, are in your fish food........the corals get some of that food The fish create ammonium and urea to feed the bacteria which feeds the zoo in the corals and the zoo creates the aminos as well to feed the coral.
You can feed some natural foods like oyster feast, reef frenzy or other coral foods like that if your fish load is light.
The phosphate and nitrate are produced or passed through by what the fish excrete.
As far as trace elements ,I prefer to keep my trace levels in line with water changes. There's debates over water changes not being able to keep up fast enough......I'm not sure on that.
You over dose those trace metals and guess what?............algae benefits........they can suck up trace metals better than the corals. There's all kinds of scientific evidence of how efficient they do it.
That's why I've never been into algae filters they steal trace elements from corals. It's no wonder some people say some elements are depleted when they get a Triton test.............first question I'd ask is do you have an algae filter?
Watch this video, it explains it better than I ever could about what happens in a healthy reef.
Coral reefs in the Microbial Seas
https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...=3d4fa48255695a1dfa7d2ec8627d9437&action=view
And last question please, what is your opinion about balanced balling systems? I'm using aquaforest balling and my values are not balanced ( kh 6.5, CA 500 and Mg 1500). Before aquaforest I had the same problems with red sea balling, because my system don't consume Mg. Are there a problem if I only add kh?
Alk and calcium will be consumed at the same ratio if your solutions match. If one or the other is too concentrated you get that imbalance.
I replenish my Mg with water changes, very little Mg gets used up. You may just be over dosing that.
I've never used the commercial balling systems........too expensive, when I can get the same chemicals off the shelf and mix them to matched ratios on my own.
If you want to stick with the commercial systems it would be better to get the dried versions and mix them yourself so you know exactly what the concentrations are.
Thanks