Torch turned white

Webmanny

Active member
Hey guys,

For some reason, my touch just turned white. It still inflates normally, but it is 100% white.

I think it may be related to the fact that I have been feeding more often, but I don't know if that sounds correct.

I've attached pictures of my parameters and the Tourch last night when it was closed up and with its tentacles out.

Light is the same DIY LEDs I've had for months now and nothing else had changed to my knowledge.

I know it will bounce back, but I'm just curious and mostly just sharing with the team.

For those of you who don't know this tool, the tank reading is the number on the far right. The numbers on the left are the recommended ranges.

I know it says July 10, but that is when this started and I checked last night and the numbers are the same.

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I've had it for about a year now. I'll take it out of the tank and dip it, to see if that helps. What do you guys think?
 
I think I just found what this is.

It looks like Brown Jelly bacteria. I think my first assumption was correct. This could be due to the increased feeding I've been doing. I think some food might have accumulated around the tentacles and caused an infection.

I will dip it when I get home tonight and see where it goes.

I just wanted to share this very informative link I found online, which describes exactly what I noticed in the past few days.

http://www.athiel.com/lib/bacterial.html
 
I have a torch coral that had this disease. I am not sure what caused it but after reading that link I tend to think my urchin may have been responsible. Mine had the stringy brown stuff coming out of it for about a day, it never did turn white. I put it in a different spot with better flow and that seemed to do the trick. Haven't had any problems for several months and it seems to be doing fine now.

Good luck with yours.
 
Very good point Mike. I also have a tuxedo urchin and I would not be surprised if the combination of extra food and the urchin caused this. I will dip it today and move it to a different spot to see what happens. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
Nope. On the left the log shows the recommended ranges. My actual measurements are on the right. 8dkh for ALK.

Gotcha, so it's says alk was down 1.5 since your last measurement? When was your last measurement? What is your typical daily alk swing? What are you dosing to maintain alk and what is your delivery method? Sorry for the interrogation, but I know from experience, that alk swings can cause a lot of stress to tank inhabitants, making them more vulnerable to illness.
 
Gotcha, so it's says alk was down 1.5 since your last measurement? When was your last measurement? What is your typical daily alk swing? What are you dosing to maintain alk and what is your delivery method? Sorry for the interrogation, but I know from experience, that alk swings can cause a lot of stress to tank inhabitants, making them more vulnerable to illness.

The last measurement was a month before and the method I use to replenish minerals has been water changes. It normally doesn't swing by more than 1 point, but this last one has dropped by more because of the Vodka dosing.

Also, from what I have read online and the feedback I have received from local LFS, when dosing vodka, lower ALK is expected and normal result.
 
The last measurement was a month before and the method I use to replenish minerals has been water changes. It normally doesn't swing by more than 1 point, but this last one has dropped by more because of the Vodka dosing.

Also, from what I have read online and the feedback I have received from local LFS, when dosing vodka, lower ALK is expected and normal result.

Are you using an ato for top off water? Have you measured the alk of your freshwater? I have an extra hydor smart level that I'm not using if you need one. I'm currently using a concentrated kalkwasser mix and add vinegar to it for a carbon source. My alk is rock solid at 9dkh and doesn't move. I love this method because it kills multiple birds with one stone, calc, alk, carbon, and freshwater. Just make sure it is delivered slowly via ato.

Hope this helps - stability is key.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-01/rhf/
 
FloMotion,

Very good point. I do use an ATO for fresh water, but I stopped using Kalk because of the mess it makes with the pump and hoses. I dose vodka separately with a DP4 and I am starting to dose Calcium, ALK and Mag very soon once I nail down the correct dosing amounts. This has proven to be a hard calculation for me.

As far as the Torch goes, I believe it has to do with the flow and maybe the extra feeding. It doesn't strike me as being an ALK issue, as all other LPS corals are doing better than ever. I have Frogspawn, Hammers and Octospawn, which are from the same family and all are doing great.

I do appreciate the feedback and I will keep it in by back pocket in case this doesn't improve or gets worse.
 
The photo shows the coral expelling its zooxanthellae, not a brown jelly infection (formerly helicostoma - the protozoan has been reclassified, but you should find info via the old name). "Brown Jelly Infection" is just that - a slimy brown mass outside the coral tissue that smothers the coral.

You mentioned vodka dosing - is this a new change to the tank? If so, sudden clearing of the water could stress the coral and cause it to dump zoox.
 
Interesting. I read the link I provided before and the description was very similar. The Vodka dosing has been in place for months now without issues. I just did a dip and moved it to a different location to see if that helps.

I'll keep you all updated.
 
Vodka and months is not a new thing. It takes weeks/months just to build the tank up to max level of vodka per day. In this hobby I would say weeks is a short time not days. Most corals take a couple weeks to show signs.
 
Correct. It took about two months to get to the current dosage and it had been the same for about 4 months now. These are estimates of course, because I forgot to fully document everything.
 
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