Treating fish with copper

Jarred1

Active member
I have a few fish in qt and one of them has ich, I started the copper treatment at the beginning of the week. I am having a problem with getting the copper level to rise in the tank though. Is there something I should know about couprimine?
 
I have a few fish in qt and one of them has ich, I started the copper treatment at the beginning of the week. I am having a problem with getting the copper level to rise in the tank though. Is there something I should know about couprimine?

Do you have anything in the QT like sand/gravel/rock which might be absorbing the Cupramine? Describe exactly how you have your QT setup. It should be bare bottom with nothing but PVC fittings for hiding places.
 
The tank is bare bottom with some pvc pieces, a sponge filter, hob filter with some sponges in it with bacteria on them, a heater, and a little decorative chest for the fish to hide in as well.
 
What are you using to test the copper level? Cupramine stays in suspension for a very long time and a Cu test should show additional Cu. The only test kits I know work with Cupramine are SeaChem or Salifert.
 
I don't know about that test kit; tech support is closed for the weekend too. But if you add Cu and the test doesnt read it....it has to be the test kit. Unless there is something absorbing the CU, and that doesn't seem to be the case. You don't have carbon, or a carbon filled poly pad, in the filter....I assume.
 
No carbon and no poly pads. The fish are eating fine but I see one of them flashing like it has ich. I want to do a water change on the tank because I have been feeding a LOT of food to these fish to keep them nice and fat. Should I do a water change?

On the bottle of cuprimine it says to treat the tank for 14 days, but I read posts that say to treat for 4 weeks. What should I do?

One of the fish has a cloudy puffy eye, sort of looks like pop eye but I was told that if it was pop eye, both eyes should be infected. I have furan II I plan on treating with that after the cupramine treatment is up.

Thanks for the help!
 
No carbon and no poly pads. The fish are eating fine but I see one of them flashing like it has ich. I want to do a water change on the tank because I have been feeding a LOT of food to these fish to keep them nice and fat. Should I do a water change?

On the bottle of cuprimine it says to treat the tank for 14 days, but I read posts that say to treat for 4 weeks. What should I do?

One of the fish has a cloudy puffy eye, sort of looks like pop eye but I was told that if it was pop eye, both eyes should be infected. I have furan II I plan on treating with that after the cupramine treatment is up.

Thanks for the help!
 
Do you have a stick-on ammonia alert gizmo (Wal-Mart)? Most ammonia tests don't work with Cu and ammonia-neutralizers (Prime, amquel, etc) are deadly when used with Cu. If your filter was well-seeded, it should control ammonia. Until you have a test kit that is compatible with Cu, I wouldn't change water unless ammonia was rising. You can tell a lot about copper and ammonia levels by just watching the fish. if they're eating, not gasping for breath, or breathing heavily---they're OK. Cu does say 2 weeks, but that isn't enough. I suggest 4 weeks with a CU level of .35-.40 (less than the bottle suggests. ) If things go south before you can be sure of Cu level; then do a big WC, run carbon, and start over when you have the right tests. If you know ammonia is a problem; do a WC with new water at the same level of Cu as that that is removed. I'd wait with the popeye treatment too.
 
Ammonia is fine, the fins on the fish are doing fine, one fish's fin is healing. I ordered a seachem cu test just a few minutes ago.
 
Good! remember to start the clock on the day Cu was at least .35ppm. IME, fish do much better with Cu when it is added gradually and as long as they're eating, all is well. if fish stop eating with no other reason, that is a sure sign of copper sensitivity. BTW, SeaChem makes both the Cu & test kit. they have great tech support and i call them often. You might check in with them Tuesday if there is something that isn't going right; but i think you're OK. 1-800-SEACHEM.
 
Well, I can't tell when it was .35ppm because the level wasn't going up when I was testing. The test kit may be bad, we will find out when the new seachem test kit gets here.
 
Well, I can't tell when it was .35ppm because the level wasn't going up when I was testing. The test kit may be bad, we will find out when the new seachem test kit gets here.

The tests aren't easy to read, either. So you'll want to be closer to .5 than .25 and you should be OK. When you get the test, you'll see what I mean. If you don't do any WCs; the 1st reading with the new kit will be the level of Cu today---it doesn't break down very fast.
 
No carbon and no poly pads. The fish are eating fine but I see one of them flashing like it has ich. I want to do a water change on the tank because I have been feeding a LOT of food to these fish to keep them nice and fat. Should I do a water change?

!

If you want, a WC wouldnt hurt. Since your fish is eating well, just do a 5g(or whatever you feel is suitable) and dose that 5g water to .5ppm cupramine by following the directions on the bottle. It is very accurate. The QT still should be frequently tested though.

I feed a ton in my 29g QT and do periodic 5g WC all the time.

BTW, what size is your QT and how much cupramine have you added total?
 
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It's a 20 gallon tank. I dosed the correct amount that the bottle said to on the first day. I waited a day and the dosed 20 more drops, a little less than what the bottle says. It can't hurt to go slow. Yesterday I added 15-20 more drops.

Right now there is two randalls anthias, yasha goby, and a chalk bass (I think he has ich). This week I am going to get rid of a anthias because they both turned into males and get a yellow wrasse. Should that amount of fish be fine in that tank?
 
Just FYI, Seachems website says the Red Sea kit is ok to use with Cupramine.

Jason

Good to know! SeaChem has a very informative web site; anyone using copper should read the Cupramine FAQ.

To the OP: good move removing the Anthias. A 20 is WAY too small for any anthias and WAY, WAY too small for more than one. LA suggests 125 gal minimum. Anthias need a mature reef and lots of swimming space to survive and thrive long term. I assume the wrasse is Halichoeres chrysus and I think your tank is way too small for this fish too. I can't think of any wrasse that would do well in a 20. LA's site gives some fairly good info on tank size requirements and is a good place to window shop for suitable fish. http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=15
 
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I think we had a miss interpretation, the qt tank is the 20g tank. The dt is bigger than the qt tank.
 

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