Treating ICH with eel

jsho13

New member
It seems like my display tank as came down with some sort of parasite. There are white spots on my blue throat trigger however he has been acting normal and eating well. I also noticed spots on my Harlequin Tusk and it was also eating well and acting normal until this past weekend. It was just sitting in the corner breathing heavily.

Fast forward to today - I am setting up my 29 gallon tank as a hospital tank but not sure what to do from there. My LFS set me up with some ICH-X and told me to dose the DT which from what I understand will not cure the problem.

Should I go about removing all the Fish (2 Clown, 3 Chromis, 1 Blue Throat Trigger, 1 Blue hippo tang, 1 Yellow Tang, and 1 Harlequin Tusk? What about my Zebra Moray Eel?

The Trigger and Tusk are the only fish showing symptoms.

What is the best way to treat them in the hospital tank and what to do with the display tank?

Thank You
 
With all of those fish including the eel you will need to treat them with some form of copper or Chloroquine Phosphate. The DT needs to be left fallow during that time for 72 days to allow the ich lifecycle to stop. Take the "ich X" you were sold back and get your money back... Stuff is snake oil
 
IIRC an eel will not take kindly to copper; chloro phos should be fine, or TTM with hypo. The others should be okay for it.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Would I treat the same if it happens to be velvet? I am new to this and after googling I am not quite sure what could be in my tank at this point. All I know is that my Tusk swims fine for a few minutes then heads to the corner of the tank and lays down essentially.
 
IIRC an eel will not take kindly to copper; chloro phos should be fine, or TTM with hypo. The others should be okay for it.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes on the no copper for the eel... Silly me, I only use CP and never copper so it slipped my mind
 
Would I treat the same if it happens to be velvet? I am new to this and after googling I am not quite sure what could be in my tank at this point. All I know is that my Tusk swims fine for a few minutes then heads to the corner of the tank and lays down essentially.

Chloroquine Phosphate if its velvet. I kind of doubt its velvet since they would most likely all or at least some be dead by now
 
Here's another ? - Can an eel host ich? I have read varying responses and is there any evidence pointing either way?
 
I started dosing my 29 gallon with cupramine this morning. Have only been able to catch my harlequin tusk and blue throat trigger.

How often would I do a water change on the hospital tank - its a bare bottom with a HOB filter - Not running carbon.

Is cupramine safe for the Eel or do I need to set up another tank to treat it?

Thank you for the help
 
I am fairly certain I have read many times that eels did not take kindly to copper/cupramine; so I'd personally setup a separate tank to treat him.

I have always done weekly 10-20% WC's on my observation/hospital tanks. Really just to keep the bottom clean.
 
Does this still look like ICH - I am on day 3 of Cupramine treatment and the fish has been staying at the bottom with labored breathing for the past couple days. It will get out once in a while for a swim and return to the bottom but today it seems to be coated with a cloudy mucus of sorts
 
I have in the past done a hypo-salinity on my hospital tank an was able to save most fishes, try lowering the salt about 1.008

PROCESS

Lowering Salinity
Over a period of about 36-48 hours (use 48 for most Tangs, Butterflyfishes, Lionfishes, Puffers, and Dwarf Angelfishes) lower the specific through water removal and RO/DI or distilled water additions. Watch pH and temperature of the added water -- match that of the water being replaced. Use only a refractometer to measure the specific gravity. Lower the specific gravity to a reading of 1.008 to 1.009 sp. gr. units. Hold it there throughout the treatment.
 
Reed the entire process so you can understand why it's important to perform. It will help the fish with its breathing and allow the Marine Ich to die off
 
He didn't make it through the night. I came in to work to check on the fish and he was at the bottom. Now I am wondering what the best approach would be. I just set up the hospital tank on Monday with a brand new tank and did water changes every other day this week while keeping the copper level at 0.5mg/l. Something obviously got him sick in the first place but i'm questioning what it was. All other fish seem to be acting healthy and eating well.

What would my next step be? Remove all fish and place in the hospital tank for 72 days? Or because my fish still appear to be healthy - should I place the three in the HT back in the DT and allow the HT tank to cycle properly?

I have a seachem stick on ammonia alert on the HT and it read at .05 ppm this morning. How could I go about avoiding ammonia spikes like this?

Thank You
 
He didn't make it through the night. I came in to work to check on the fish and he was at the bottom. Now I am wondering what the best approach would be. I just set up the hospital tank on Monday with a brand new tank and did water changes every other day this week while keeping the copper level at 0.5mg/l. Something obviously got him sick in the first place but i'm questioning what it was. All other fish seem to be acting healthy and eating well.

What would my next step be? Remove all fish and place in the hospital tank for 72 days? Or because my fish still appear to be healthy - should I place the three in the HT back in the DT and allow the HT tank to cycle properly?

I have a seachem stick on ammonia alert on the HT and it read at .05 ppm this morning. How could I go about avoiding ammonia spikes like this?

Thank You

I'd have everything in quarintine for 72 + days since you don't know the exact cause. I'd start by ttm while dosing Prazipro to every living creature 1st then into a hospital tank. Get a sponge and place on the end of a powerhead and get some dr tims cycling stuff, to help get some good bacteria in there doing what they do. Avoiding ammonia spikes can be done with prime when not using copper, and water changes until the good bacteria grows. Eels and copper like said are a no no, while their mucous does help them in a lot of ways they can still be a carrier for most diseases. Feed minimally while doing ttm to help reduce the waste.

I may get in trouble for saying this but get on the other big site and go to the disease forum and post a pic and thread.
 

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