unclejed2
New member
Yes, this was my thinking also. A couple daylights might get things going.
Trouble keeping any corals
- Thread starter microwave
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Yes, this was my thinking also. A couple daylights might get things going.
awestruck
New member
You know, I had a cool softie (tree coral) and some of my corals weren't really thriving. Took it to the LFS and the rest of my tank perked up. Could there be some "chemical warfare" going on--do you run carbon? As Grantw said, carbon cleans up the water if the softies are releasing things that are bothering the stonies. Also, are any corals getting stung? Are some too close to the aggressive corals? And, perhaps increasing your photoperiod would help although I don't think lighting is the problem. Again, do you have any stray current running through the tank?
I would check on the alk levels that sps like 'cuz I still think your alk could be raised a bit.
Are you sure your RO/DI water is clean? Do any of the filters need replacing?
I would check on the alk levels that sps like 'cuz I still think your alk could be raised a bit.
Are you sure your RO/DI water is clean? Do any of the filters need replacing?
RO/DI system from BRS. Has a dual inline tds meter and reads 0
No, my tank is lightly stocked, and the corals are sufficiently spaced.
I run carbon passively in a mesh bag in the sump 24/7. It is changed out once every 2 weeks.
The lighting fixture came with a couple 10k bulbs. I never used them. Should I just swap out a blue+ for one of these and see how it goes?
Dave VG
New member
Yes try it!!!!!
Again those are all high light corals so what do you think the problem could be? All the low light corals seem to be doing well and parameters are all good hello
.
Yes try it!!!!!
Again those are all high light corals so what do you think the problem could be? All the low light corals seem to be doing well and parameters are all good hello
Ok I swapped out a blue + and replaced it with a 10k. Hopefully I will see some reaction. Thank you all for your time. I will report back in a week or so.
twelvejewelz
New member
i can guarantee you its not the lighting and it is definitely a water issue. Look at sunnyX's tank that is running the same bulb combo as you and tell me if its your lighting after that. The combo you are running is the most common combo to run and most people that have T5 run it and have excellent results or they wouldnt be running it. Check out his tank its amazing!
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15343455&postcount=125
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15343455&postcount=125
Is it possible that "chemical warfare" might be to blame, or even plain old instability? Although the equipment and parameters should support a range of corals, including sps, it's a small tank and an even smaller water volume. Various compounds exuded by soft corals can accumulate quickly and the chemistry in a small tank can fluctuate moreso than in a larger one. Adding extra carbon or maybe a poly filter is easy and may give positive results? Just wanted to add these thoughts to the mix, although you have likely already considered this.....
serpentman
part time superhero
Like Jewel, I do not think its the lighting. I run my SPS tank on a 6hr photoperiod with great success. IMO, I think we often overestimate lighting requirements.
I would err on the side of water chemistry as well. My personal guess is one of two things. Either you are getting growth inhibition from local softies or your tank is actually too clean. IME, its a fine line between running low nutrients and no nutrients. SPS do need some available nitrogen and phosphate. I'd actually consider a couple more fish.
I would err on the side of water chemistry as well. My personal guess is one of two things. Either you are getting growth inhibition from local softies or your tank is actually too clean. IME, its a fine line between running low nutrients and no nutrients. SPS do need some available nitrogen and phosphate. I'd actually consider a couple more fish.
strike2867
Member
+1 on the tank is too clean. I'd go with some more fish to dirty it up. Both for the SPS and Softies.
phenom5
Member
I don't think it's the lighting either. i run a 48" NEP on my 75 with 4 Blue +, 1 AB Special, and 1 KZ Fiji Purple and it's plenty of light for my SPS. Also, that stock 10,000K Current bulb puts out less PAR than the ATI Blue +.
Nutrients being too low was one of my first thoughts, or chemical warfare from the softies.
If it were me, I'd replace the Blue +, and bump up the feeding, and try to increase the nutrient levels in the tank (not too much of course), and see how that goes. If that didn't work I'd consider increasing the amount of GAC, and possibly look to add a reactor for the GAC & GFO.
Nutrients being too low was one of my first thoughts, or chemical warfare from the softies.
If it were me, I'd replace the Blue +, and bump up the feeding, and try to increase the nutrient levels in the tank (not too much of course), and see how that goes. If that didn't work I'd consider increasing the amount of GAC, and possibly look to add a reactor for the GAC & GFO.
reefmeiser
New member
Ive never heard of adding Bleach,why do this?
serpentman
part time superhero
Although I've heard of folks adding small amounts of bleach to raise ORP, I think in this case, he was joking.
Yes I was definately joking. I replaced the blue + for now, and will ramp up my feedings and see how it goes.
twelvejewelz
New member
i think he means take that 10k you put in out and put the blue plus back in that position because the 10k is less par than the blue plus so you actually downgraded. I personally think that it mabe a few different factors. The chemical warfare is one, stability is another and i just think that there is something not right with your water. I would personally do a couple bigger water changes to get everything closer to the actual make up water ( as long as your using a good brand that mimics the correct parameters) then start fresh from there. You may have phosphates even though its reading 0 and this can stunt your growth. Its not light related though its definitely water related. Do you have an ATO ? Do you Dose Kalk in your ATO?
Dave VG
New member
We are all making assumptions on your problem at this point me included. It will not hurt a thing to put a 10K in to see if you get some results form doing so. But do one thing at a time to prove it out know what I mean? Then you can pass that proven knowledge on to the next person you see having the same problem. And if someone guarantees you it is what they say it is have them prove it for crime in Italy. With the fish you have and your feeding regimen I find it hard to believe your system is starved of nutrients. And someone please send me the link that says the blue plus has more par than a 10K. Most people use 10K’s on there frag/grow out tanks because they get the best growth from 10K bulbs lol. If blue plus had better par I’m thinking all grow out/frag tanks would be using them yes? Good luck to you hope you find the root problem and all turns out well for you and you end up with a good growing and thriving reef tank..
phenom5
Member
For clarification, you're speaking in generalities here. 10,000K's are generally considered better for frag tanks when you're talking about metal halides, and the same is true for many T5's because the color isn't as good, but the PAR is higher.
In this case, the OP is talking about the Current Sunpaq 10,000K vs an ATI Blue +. The Current Sunpaq are low quality tubes that are pretty weak in terms of their PAR output.
Grim's old site
I have this bookmarked. He has a new site up that looks better (doesn't have a picture under some of the results, etc) but I don't have that link handy. Per his result for 48" tubes...
ATI Blue + PAR - 311
Current Sunpaq 10,000K - 272
Definitely agree about making one change at a time though. That's the only way to determine what the actual problem is.
twelvejewelz
New member
Its not really an assumption though regarding the bulbs as the tests have been done and the facts are there. Some bulbs are just made better than others and give more par. The combo the op is running is a tried and true combo of brand/bulbs and is probably the most popular combo that people run.By adding the 10k hes actually reducing his par and if you were thinking that mabe it wasnt enough light so he should add the 10k it was the opposite move. I agree with you on one thing though 1 thing at a time
Thats the link i was looking for it was in Grims T5 thread as well but that thing is so long at this point i couldnt find it lol. I do agree with both of you that only do one change at a time. but ill stick to what i say up there in my last post ^ ^^ .
menthol
New member
had the same issues for a whole six months with my sps dom tank. culprit are the softies, especially ricordeas. i suspected the IO (maybe your RC)salt change too from tropic marin. now i've taken a lot of softies out and switched to red sea pro with great improvements on sps health and growth. i've been to a lot of places over here diving and snorkeling and i havent seen a site yet that have sps and softies thriving together.
