TTM explained please

[Daddyrawg]

anyone have a link on how TTM works? I get the 2 tanks thing and transfer fish every 3 days, I guess my question is when you transfer fish from old tank to new tank are you supposed to discard old water from tank that fish is removed and replace with new water? if I have a 20 gall and a 10 gal and I have to keep replacing water I guess that can add up ...

Thanks

 

[nereefpat]

Yes, you have to replace the water.

You have to allow everything from tank 1 to dry for 24hrs before filling with water again.

 

[Daddyrawg]

Yes, you have to replace the water.

You have to allow everything from tank 1 to dry for 24hrs before filling with water again.

That sounds annoying

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[MondoBongo]

That sounds annoying

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far less annoying than trying to extract and treat sick fish from a display tank.

there is certainly up front cost to any quarantine method, but it's well worth it in my opinion once you factor in the cost and time associated with keeping a saltwater tank. ounce of prevention, etc... etc...

 

[nereefpat]

200 gallon box of IO salt costs about 50$....so about .25 / gallon.

Each transfer (10 gallons, in your case) costs $2.50.

4 transfers costs 10 bucks. That's probably cheaper than buying meds. Definitely cheaper than losing any fish. You can even use water out of your display, if the display is ich free.

It really isn't that big of a pain. But everyone does the QT thing differently. Try it and see.

 

[Dmorty217]

There is a sticky on this in the disease section I believe. My suggestion would be to read up on diseases and treatment. Tank wipe outs because of disease is the single leading cause of people leaving the hobby

 

[Daddyrawg]

200 gallon box of IO salt costs about 50$....so about .25 / gallon.

Each transfer (10 gallons, in your case) costs $2.50.

4 transfers costs 10 bucks. That's probably cheaper than buying meds. Definitely cheaper than losing any fish. You can even use water out of your display, if the display is ich free.

It really isn't that big of a pain. But everyone does the QT thing differently. Try it and see.

Nice break down thank you.. I'm lazy I guess.. All I have done so far with my 8 healthy fish is just buy from a reputable store and observe in QT for 3-4 wks each. I was thinking of getting a small blue hippo tang for my 90, but I have a feeling this one will have ich so I am preparing myself for either Hypo or TTM..

 

[nereefpat]

Nice break down thank you.. I'm lazy I guess.. All I have done so far with my 8 healthy fish is just buy from a reputable store and observe in QT for 3-4 wks each. I was thinking of getting a small blue hippo tang for my 90, but I have a feeling this one will have ich so I am preparing myself for either Hypo or TTM..

You're welcome. Hopefully I didn't insult your intelligence.

A good, local store with healthy fish sure helps.

Since you have an observation/qt tank set up anyway, you could look into copper or chloroquine phosphate. Or you can observe for a few weeks and go from there. Like I said, everyone does QT a little differently.

The nice thing about TTM is that it's a quick (max 12 days), fairly cheap/easy, and proven way of eliminating ich.

 

[Daddyrawg]

You're welcome. Hopefully I didn't insult your intelligence.

A good, local store with healthy fish sure helps.

Since you have an observation/qt tank set up anyway, you could look into copper or chloroquine phosphate. Or you can observe for a few weeks and go from there. Like I said, everyone does QT a little differently.

The nice thing about TTM is that it's a quick (max 12 days), fairly cheap/easy, and proven way of eliminating ich.

Yah I like the idea of TTM.. I think copper might be hard on tangs even though I have a new bottle of cupramine just chillin.

 

[Uncle99]

Yah I like the idea of TTM.. I think copper might be hard on tangs even though I have a new bottle of cupramine just chillin.

Yes, Copper is hard on tangs, always try TTM or Hypo for Ick.

Those blues are Ick magnets, but very cool fish!

 

[hkgar]

Here is the sticky at the top of this forum.

Please consider the fish and do not get a Blue Hippo for a 90 gallon tank. It is recommended that the tank be 240 gallons and 8 foot for this fish. They grow to about 12 inches and need a lot of swimming room.

 

[Daddyrawg]

Here is the sticky at the top of this forum.

Please consider the fish and do not get a Blue Hippo for a 90 gallon tank. It is recommended that the tank be 240 gallons and 8 foot for this fish. They grow to about 12 inches and need a lot of swimming room.

lol 240, fine i'll pass

 

[Daddyrawg]

Yes, Copper is hard on tangs, always try TTM or Hypo for Ick.

Those blues are Ick magnets, but very cool fish!

is that your blue and how big is your tank?

 

[hkgar]

Here is a guide for recommended tank sizes for tangs.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1946079

 

[Daddyrawg]

Here is a guide for recommended tank sizes for tangs.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1946079

yeah I know but Ive seen a million healthy blues in 90's- 180's

 

[Uncle99]

is that your blue and how big is your tank?

Yup my blue and his friend a yellow also in 65g.

Yes they grow, but it will take about 2-3 years.

Every 3-5 years I upgrade, not concerned at all.

The blue and the yellow were put in at the same time, the blue is 3" and the yellow is 4".
They were both QT together so they became friends.

The are fed well and their home is immaculate, no problems at all.

As long as you understand that the tang will require more space in the future or can be traded into LFS, then the 90g is quite doable.

There must low or no agression tank mates for this to work well.

Mine are
Blue, yellow, Anthais, Firefish, mandarin, lawnmower, pair of clowns, red fire shrimp.

Have fun

 

[Daddyrawg]

yup my blue and his friend a yellow also in 65g.

Yes they grow, but it will take about 2-3 years.

Every 3-5 years i upgrade, not concerned at all.

The blue and the yellow were put in at the same time, the blue is 3" and the yellow is 4".
They were both qt together so they became friends.

The are fed well and their home is immaculate, no problems at all.

As long as you understand that the tang will require more space in the future or can be traded into lfs, then the 90g is quite doable.

There must low or no agression tank mates for this to work well.

Mine are
blue, yellow, anthais, firefish, mandarin, lawnmower, pair of clowns, red fire shrimp.

Have fun

agreed

 

[sde1500]

Just a note, if you didn't QT the other fish, there is still the chance of ich in the system. You could go through this and then find the fish still gets ich.

 

[Daddyrawg]

Just a note, if you didn't QT the other fish, there is still the chance of ich in the system. You could go through this and then find the fish still gets ich.

True

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[Uncle99]

True

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Fight Ick (if it exists) by keeping fish well fed, agression low, water stable.
Parasites like the weak.

If you do decide to try, keep in mind that it would have to be IMO the last fish, same with all tangs, if you try and add another fish, that might not work out well. Add them last, Qt them together, add them to DT together. That's why I did the blue and the yellow together, try and add either later, that most likely would not work.

So for me, no more fish!