Tunze nano mod
- Thread starter mr pink floyd
- Start date
r00onmac
DVM in training
hmm... now salty has them in hand the guy said... BUT their ground shipping is 8.95 and i need it by friday, so id need to pay for 2 day... and they dont have a price for that on hand...
phishy said the pumps are coming today and should go out tomorrow... and their fedex home (3 day) is only 7.72... but i risk the pumps not coming today or not going out tomorrow...
dilemma!!!...
phishy said the pumps are coming today and should go out tomorrow... and their fedex home (3 day) is only 7.72... but i risk the pumps not coming today or not going out tomorrow...
dilemma!!!...
r00onmac
DVM in training
order placed at phishy... i took the risk..
im supposed to have one on the way from a local reefer but he said he shipped it last 2 thursdays ago from about 30 miles north of here and no sign of it yet... and nobody has heard from this reefer in that long either so i hope he is okay.. its an ongoing investigation by us FMAS members
im supposed to have one on the way from a local reefer but he said he shipped it last 2 thursdays ago from about 30 miles north of here and no sign of it yet... and nobody has heard from this reefer in that long either so i hope he is okay.. its an ongoing investigation by us FMAS members
r00onmac
DVM in training
hopefully mine will also go out tomorrow... i only bought one, but if i like it ill be placing an order for 1 or two more... i hate the look of powerheads in my tank, but these seem to be really tiny and a great deal for the price... ill be doing the wide flow and full blast mods on page 8 as soon as i get it... it wont be turning on and off unless there is a power outage so i see no reason why either of these will be a problem...
I am no DC motor expert so want to ask your opinions on my plan for some serious mods for my future 6055.
Roger has posted some photos of his 6055 unit, it showed the transformer rated at 800mA max at the AC end, and 24V/1.2A at the DC end. The 6055 motor should have the same 24V/1.2A capacity rating.
Is my math right that the motor then will have a top watt rating at 28.8W? Tunze specs said the 6055 is rated 18W max. Of course if we try to over drive beyond the 18W we will void the warranty and can not expect any sympathy from Tunze for a premature burnt motor. So I understand any attempt at modding the drive unit will be at my own risk which I can accept.
However in theory should the motor be pushed beyond the 18W without real concern, as long as it is under 28.8W? In another word if the current is below the rated 1.2A max the motor should be safe right? If so what kind of measuring meter should I get to test the DC current in the motor and what kind of adaptors do I need?
At this point I just have a Kill-A-Watt meter which does AC end only.
Roger has posted some photos of his 6055 unit, it showed the transformer rated at 800mA max at the AC end, and 24V/1.2A at the DC end. The 6055 motor should have the same 24V/1.2A capacity rating.
Is my math right that the motor then will have a top watt rating at 28.8W? Tunze specs said the 6055 is rated 18W max. Of course if we try to over drive beyond the 18W we will void the warranty and can not expect any sympathy from Tunze for a premature burnt motor. So I understand any attempt at modding the drive unit will be at my own risk which I can accept.
However in theory should the motor be pushed beyond the 18W without real concern, as long as it is under 28.8W? In another word if the current is below the rated 1.2A max the motor should be safe right? If so what kind of measuring meter should I get to test the DC current in the motor and what kind of adaptors do I need?
At this point I just have a Kill-A-Watt meter which does AC end only.
Last edited:
jacmyoung-
Unfortunately, it's just not that simple. The 6055 is a brushless DC pump which means that it is electronically commutated by a circuit board, usually with a microprocessor. Basically, its the programming of the board that determines the speed the pump will run at. Therefor, there's no way to hot rod it. In the case of the 6055, the circuit board is probably epoxy sealed within the pump itself, so you can't even see or access it.
If you want to actually measure the current that the motor is drawing, you will have to cut the cord going from the power supply to the motor and measure there.
Honestly, this just isn't worth it. There's nothing you can do to tweak these DC motors other than opening up the housing to allow for more flow. I believe that doing this will improve the flow through the pump, however, the case size is limited and you may find that the 6055 is already pushing as much water as possible through such a small housing. Remove the housing all together and you've got a totally different ball game, but that's true for any prop pump.
-Tim
Unfortunately, it's just not that simple. The 6055 is a brushless DC pump which means that it is electronically commutated by a circuit board, usually with a microprocessor. Basically, its the programming of the board that determines the speed the pump will run at. Therefor, there's no way to hot rod it. In the case of the 6055, the circuit board is probably epoxy sealed within the pump itself, so you can't even see or access it.
If you want to actually measure the current that the motor is drawing, you will have to cut the cord going from the power supply to the motor and measure there.
Honestly, this just isn't worth it. There's nothing you can do to tweak these DC motors other than opening up the housing to allow for more flow. I believe that doing this will improve the flow through the pump, however, the case size is limited and you may find that the 6055 is already pushing as much water as possible through such a small housing. Remove the housing all together and you've got a totally different ball game, but that's true for any prop pump.
-Tim
skydancer
New member
WHAT???
You absolutely DO NOT HAVE TO CUT ANY CORDS!!!
Jacmyoung, just disconnect the cable from the DC Power supply to the pump. Then use a clip to attach the one side of the Power supply to the one side of the pump (make sure the ground or (-ve) goes with the ground at the pump. The other connection of the power supply connects to a Fluke multimeter in series. (One side of the mutlimeter goes to the power supply connector, and the other side of the mutlimeter goes to the +(ve) of the pump.
PLEASE DO NOT CUT ANYTHING. Later today I'll post a schematic diagram. Or PM me and I'll call you.
(BTW, I know what I'm talking about) I'm a EE, not an ME
Forgive me, I was under the impression that the power supply was hard wired into the pump. If it's not, then skydancer is right, you need only create a little harness that will allow you to measure the current going in to the pump.
Doesn't really matter anyway, you can closely estimate how much current is going into the pump based on the claimed input wattage...
18w at 24v = .750 A
obviously some of that 18w is lost within the power supply, but this is close enough.
Opening up the shroud will definitely provide more flow, how much more is really the question. The shroud is definitely the limiting factor, that's why if you compare a 6300 to a 6100, the shroud is MUCH more open in design. It needs to be to flow that much water.
Doesn't really matter anyway, you can closely estimate how much current is going into the pump based on the claimed input wattage...
18w at 24v = .750 A
obviously some of that 18w is lost within the power supply, but this is close enough.
Opening up the shroud will definitely provide more flow, how much more is really the question. The shroud is definitely the limiting factor, that's why if you compare a 6300 to a 6100, the shroud is MUCH more open in design. It needs to be to flow that much water.
Skydancer, please provide me with the diagram, or a picture will be even better, I am no EE nor ME
Timbo, if you look a few pictures back on this thread you will see a 6055 spy plan picture I posted. Yes I will have a much bigger shroud for that baby It will be bigger than the 6000 opening but smaller than the 6200's, which I predict will be just right since the 6055 power falls right between the two Stream pumps.
Timbo, if you look a few pictures back on this thread you will see a 6055 spy plan picture I posted. Yes I will have a much bigger shroud for that baby
It will be bigger than the 6000 opening but smaller than the 6200's, which I predict will be just right since the 6055 power falls right between the two Stream pumps.
mr pink floyd
New member
i think i need to post here saying i switched over to a koralia. I woke up one morning(thank god it was a weekend) nad there was a loud clanking noise in my tank. I look at my tunze, its running, but putting out poor flow and shaking violently. I took it apart to discover the little tabs that hold the shaft completely shattered, with no way of getting it to stay and run. i tried drilling a hole to fit the shaft in, tryign different length shafts, but nothing would work. I needed a replacement fast, and my local LFS had koralia 4s for 45 bucks(with CTARS discount)
in comparison they are very similar flow, but the tunze does take up less space. If time for getting a new pump was not an issue i would have ordered another tunze, however i didnt have the time.
im still going to watch this thread progress, and see what else you guys can do, however i wotn be able to participate in it
in comparison they are very similar flow, but the tunze does take up less space. If time for getting a new pump was not an issue i would have ordered another tunze, however i didnt have the time.
im still going to watch this thread progress, and see what else you guys can do, however i wotn be able to participate in it
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