Tunze Rail Mount -- a dairy of installation

ssheipel

Premium Member
Okay, things are progressing.

Some notes for those that follow. (Roger there are several question here in this rambling for you -- see points 3, 4 and 5 ).

1) Throw away the instructions -- I'm almot entirely being serious, not ironic. The gaping holes in information and the poor translation from the German to English of what information is there, and the lack of any meaningful connection between instructions and diagrams is highly counter-productive.

It is much more useful to view the photo Roger posted here, and/or to go to commercial retail Websites until you find one with photos of the Streams attached to the mounting rail.

Then just play with the parts you have until you create, as Roger helpfully described it, a clamp of sorts. What form that clamp will take will depend on the type of tank trim you have.

2) The process by which the wee nut that must be pushed into the suction cup could have been designed by an English comedy troupe, but given the assembly process is presumably not designed to produce humour, here is a tip that made the installation of the nut into the suction cup very simple.

Boil water. Pour boiling water over suction cup, or otherwise submerse said suction cup in said boiling water, to soften it. Position the nut (rounded side down) against the hole, into which the nut is to be inserted, on the suction cup and with a strong, broad flat surface (I used a stainless steel, flat, spackle spatula, press downard on the nut. Into the cup the nut will pop in a frustration-free second. Alternatively you can spend a few days with various tools trying to insert the nut without first softening the suction cup if you want to provide great levels of hillarity to those watching you attempt this feat.

3) If you get the adapter screws (so very conveniently titled "3000.244, Holder device extension for...") you will find that the two stainless steel screws will allow the construction of a clamp (see point 1, above) that fits (um, sort of, but not in a stable fashion) the trim on your aquarium. What you will also find, however, is that this configuration leaves nothing (e.g. a screw) of the correct length (even with the parts left over from the original mounting assembly kit) to connect the suction cup to the mounting rail in a way that the suction cut reaches the aquarium glass.

Roger, do you recommend cutting one of the plastic screws? By what means? Will the thread still "take" with the nut after such amputation?

I note that one CAN the flex the rail (with the weight of the pump connected to the rail) so that the rail flexes inward toward the glass a distance that eventuall brings the suction cup in contact with the aquarium glass. HOWEVER, this "solution" would seem to create unsuitable stress and flexing of the bracket and screws where they form a clamp at the aquarium trim.

Further, Roger, I assume that leaving the bottom of the rail "hanging," as it were (that is, not in contact with the glass via the suction cup) will not be suitable once the pump is in operation -- I would forsee a bouncing of the pump at the end of the rail, which I would guess would create an unsuitable loosening motion of the clamp section at the aquarium trim end of the mounting unit. Please advise on the validity of my assumptions in this regard.

Also, Roger, should I be concerned about having two stainless-steel screws in the vicinity of--theoretically not touching but within millimeters of--salt water? Is the system designed with the operating assumption that salt water will not be splashed onto the screws in the environment of an aquarium?

4) There are no instructions or a parts itemization (contents of package") regarding the "swivel arm" (which IS identified in the "component parts" section of the instructions booklet).

Installation is not complicated by any means, but installation will require the removal of the "suction housing" (the screened front of the pump). Note that on my particular pump (6000) with the swivel arm installed on the "top" of the pump, the label of the pump (Roger I assume the label is benign in the salt water environment and does need to be removed) is "upside down" and the electrical cord exit from the pump closer to the "top." I offer this only in assistance for positioning of the pump for installation of the swivel arm.

5) OR give up and wait for availability of, and then buy, a mounting magnet (or make your own -- there are RC threads on this) or buy the fake-rock mounting system. Roger, is it a sound assumption that the magnetic mounting system will allow the pumps to swivel in the same fasthion they are allowed to swivel withe the current mounting rail system?


Thanks,

Steve
 
Man it just isn't that hard, I have dozens of these rails installed on my tanks. I am wondering if maybe you are using the wrong nut because there are two and one is for a M4 screw and the other is for an M5 screw. The M4 should push in by hand with just a slight effort and the screw is not much longer than the nut is wide so cutting is completely unnessecary. On page 48 there is a complete itemization of every piece included with the pump. Further the directions for the rail sound about as clear as a 3D concept can be described in writing. The mount should be rock solid. I know it isn't suction cup simple but it will hold indefinitely when it is done right. You also have to understand that we have to make one holder that will work on every tank in the world and this was the solution and it can be made to work but some effort is required.

I include another pic in my gallery of a mounted rail with a 7400/2 pump on it. The prinicipal is the same. It should not flex or bow in anyway. It is the exact same concept as your standard Jorgensen or Bessey clamps from any hardware store. Bottom screw is your course adjustment to snug, top clamp flexes it in slightly to provide a bite. Pay attention to the rubber boot on the back piece- it is sloped and you can control the lean of the rail with the orientation of the boot, i.e. put it upside down to lean in, right side up to lean out. The suction cup will fill the gap and keep the rail level. If the nut is not working for you cut a small section of the plastic tube being sure to preserve the threaded end, insert that into the suction cup and use the screw to attach the short piece of rigid tube to the rail.

The screws are not only stainless they are further anodized and almost completely impervious to corrosion. Any corrosion would be non toxic.

The magnet holder will have the same swivel system.

showphoto.php
 
You're correct, of course, it's not that tough. Just trying to make a point :)

Am using the correct nut.

What about a screw to attach the suction cup to the glass at the proper distance.

Or is it okay to flex the rail -- which won't be a lasting solution in any event as the suction cup will eventually fail to hold the glass, especially against the pull of the flexed rail.

thanks,

steve
 
What brand of tank are you using Steve? It may be that your trim is just a little wider so the plastic tube cut to fit is a better option. A hacksaw works best but a bread knife or Ginsumatic 2000 will do it as well. Afterwards you can cut pennies and rope too :lol:
 
Sorry, missed your point of not flexing the rail. I'll jury rigged something to secure the bottom of the rail.

thanks

steve
 
HA! I think I got rid of my Ginsumatic in 1976!!! HA!

Tank is a "Miracles Aquarium" Trim seems similar to Oceanic. Problem might be that the inside of the trim has a ridge creating a distance too far for the standar suction cup screw, but too short a distance for the longer screw or tube

Sorry to be such a bloody idiot with this stuff. At least I'm entertaining myself with my lack of comhrehension :)
 
Just take that tube and cut it being sure to save the threaded end so you can attach the screw. Be careful when you are cutting a short piece to not cut your hand. Use a vice or even a thousand grips or something to hold it.
 
Let me see -- 8 fingers, two thumbs. Stream mounting rail installed and very stable. Cutting the tube to length was the key -- that and my finally letting it sink in that the nut is removed from the suction cup and the unthreaded tip of the tube pushed in.

Yes, FINALLY, the customer from hell has installed his Tunze mounting rail!!!!

By gawd, I'm off to therapy to deal with this blow to my sense of self-esteem and intelligence :)

Roger, thanks for your patience and your advice.

Putting water in the tank tomorrow -- Can't wait to fire up the 6000.

steve
 
Hey don't worry about it. The customer from hell is the one that yells, you were patient and gave me a chance and it's no big deal.
 
Steve, What worked for me was to screw the screw out more to make the suction cup/spacer "wider"... If you screw the screw all the way into the nut inside the suction cup, it is too short and will bend the rail and make it not work...

Realizing this and making the space/suction cup longer by screwing out more length from the screw made the whole thing much sturdier and more stable...

Todd
 
God I have to go look at my Streams now........lol. I didn't realize that it was that hard either. I didn't use the instructions but made a clamping device which works great.
 
HA! Yah, well even the simplest thing can screw up my mind :)

Todd, I used the threaded tube (which I cut to the proper length) for the suction cup attachment.

Anyway, the thing is together and holds the Stream soundly. No water in tank yet, so haven't got the pump running. I'm almost as excited about running this pump as getting LR :)

steve
 
As you well should be. I was like a 7 year old on christmas morning when mine came in.

I used one of the screws and just used a flat head screwdriver to puncture the suction cup and inserted it that way. Works great.....
 
Funny thing is 5 years later I still have that feeling whenever I smell fresh casted plastic ;). When I am unpacking a shipment I always remember the machines stamping out pieces and how it smells. Probably will give me cancer someday but oh well.
 
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