240-Reefer
New member
ok guys and gals. on that note, I want to put the Tunze on my 240, 8' long. whats my best bet?
Tunze $$$
- Thread starter reef_dude76
- Start date
marinelife
Active member
6200 and a wavebox
reef_dude76
Premium Member
tangreef68: I initially was thinking of using a closed loop. However my sump is about 4 feet long, and after plumbing the dart to the sump, I have enough room left for a precision marine calcium reactor and a 5 gallon bucket to hold my top off water to use with my Tunze osmolator. I have tried to come up with several different options for a closed loop and they all involve adding another pump with plumbing running up and over the back of my tank which will require me to set the tank out from the wall about 9 inches (this is due to plumbing an ocenasmotions 4 way in the CL). My only other option would be to use one of the return lines in one of my overflows as the return line from a CL.
marinelife: how low do you have to run the water level to keep it from splashing out of the tank with the wavebox?
marinelife: how low do you have to run the water level to keep it from splashing out of the tank with the wavebox?
The price is set by Tunze so they are the same price everywhere. No point in shopping around. I got mine at www.acropora.net
cyclgrl
New member
FYI, if you want to know about space--each Tunze stream comes with the stream pump, a transformer and drive unit (gray box).
The Tunzes are great--really love the flow, but they do take up quite a bit of real estate. In another year or so, you might have just as good of an alternative with the Vortech coming out. (I say a year b/c perhaps by then they'll have something to control their pumps.)
The Tunzes are great--really love the flow, but they do take up quite a bit of real estate. In another year or so, you might have just as good of an alternative with the Vortech coming out. (I say a year b/c perhaps by then they'll have something to control their pumps.)
reef_dude76
Premium Member
cyclgrl: Thanks for the tip on the size and equipment included with the Tunze's. I figured there was more than just two pumps and the samll controller box that is advertised. That multicontroller box didn't look like it did the work of a transformer and a drive unit.
marinelife
Active member
The wave I have right now is about 1 1/4" but I was running it at about an 1" and it was fine but I lower the water to get a bigger wave. In a 180 the streams do not take up that much room
marinelife
Active member
reef_dude76
Premium Member
marinelife: Thanks for the pic, it helps. Do you have any of all the equipment needed to make the tunze work, i.e. the transformer and drive unit too? Also, where in your 180 do you have your pumps positioned?
marinelife
Active member
I had a closed loop and hated it
I do not have any pictures of the rest, the transformer and driver is on top the canopy. I have one stream on each other flow and the wave box is mounted by the magnets.
I do not have any pictures of the rest, the transformer and driver is on top the canopy. I have one stream on each other flow and the wave box is mounted by the magnets.
On my 225 (6' x 3'), I'm running a Dart as my return pump and two Tunze 6100s. The one thing I really regret is running that much flow through my overflow. I've got 3 2" returns and the flow from the Dart is still enough to make noticable noise (I have silencers on both ends of the return pipe...in the overflow and in the sump). I've also found it difficult to give enough time in the sump (a 40 inch long sump) to get all the microbubbles to float out. I've just recently started planning converting the Dart to a CL and using a much weaker pump (on the order of a mag 9) to run the return. I understand your issues, but my advice is to really consider the ramifications of that 3k+ gph through the return (the Dart is rated for around 3600 gph I think, I've calculated about 3k after head loss in my tank).
Also, as for the Tunze's...I'm very happy with my 6100s and the 7095 multicontroller. However, I've been considering moving up to the 6200s to get a bit more flow. But I'm also running a BB tank...
I've got pics of my electric panel with the Tunze equipment mounted, as well as the plumbing to support the Dart as a return pump on my site here.
Radicaljbr
Active member
I just got my Tunze 6100 in yesterday and installed. WOW, is all I can say. So much better than any PH I have ever tried.
A little shocked to see how freaking big it was though. But watch out for the power. I actually took out my other two PHs as they were crap compared to this thing which now runs alone with my return pump. Might have to get the controler to tone it down at night.
I have the transformer on the ground and my driver screwed to the side of my canopy.
Real happy, except it created a huge algea storm in my tank from the algea bloom I am having and all fish died in about 1 hour (4). Hoping it is not from all the water flow.
A little shocked to see how freaking big it was though. But watch out for the power. I actually took out my other two PHs as they were crap compared to this thing which now runs alone with my return pump. Might have to get the controler to tone it down at night.
I have the transformer on the ground and my driver screwed to the side of my canopy.
Real happy, except it created a huge algea storm in my tank from the algea bloom I am having and all fish died in about 1 hour (4). Hoping it is not from all the water flow.
reef_dude76
Premium Member
luminary: Everything you have brought up I have thought about at least twice over. I recently redid my 58 and initially plumbed a 3MDQX-sc as the return (greatly oversized for the size of the sump) and had microbubbles galore. I opted to change it out for a 2MDQX-SC which helped things considerably, but I do still have microbubbles, though not nearly as bad.
Given that, I have plumbed a gate valve to the output side of the dart as well as plumbed a T in one of the return lines with another gate valve to allow bleed off of some of the return water back to the sump. I've also plumbed ball valves in the overflow drains.
I'm hoping that all these valves and bleed lines will allow me to
1. slow drain flow from the tank to the sump to a point to decrease water noise
2. Allow me to add head pressure to the output of the dart to reduce flow
3. Allow for a bleed return from the dart back to the sump to further add head pressure and decrease flow back to the tank thus slowing draining from the tank to aid number one above
4. I've also added a few extra 90 degree turns that I didn't necessarily need to make the plumbing look cleaner and add head pressure to reduce the return flow further.
Hopefully all this will alleviate some of the problem that you mentioned.
Given that, I have plumbed a gate valve to the output side of the dart as well as plumbed a T in one of the return lines with another gate valve to allow bleed off of some of the return water back to the sump. I've also plumbed ball valves in the overflow drains.
I'm hoping that all these valves and bleed lines will allow me to
1. slow drain flow from the tank to the sump to a point to decrease water noise
2. Allow me to add head pressure to the output of the dart to reduce flow
3. Allow for a bleed return from the dart back to the sump to further add head pressure and decrease flow back to the tank thus slowing draining from the tank to aid number one above
4. I've also added a few extra 90 degree turns that I didn't necessarily need to make the plumbing look cleaner and add head pressure to reduce the return flow further.
Hopefully all this will alleviate some of the problem that you mentioned.
reef_dude76
Premium Member
Here is a pic of the plumbing form my 180 thus far. I have made a few changes and will post an updated pic later.
