Two Moorish Idol's from Quality Marine

[Deinonych]

Looking good! Do you proactively treat? If so, what and how much/long? Interested in your QT protocol.

 

[SomeDude12]

Looking good! Do you proactively treat? If so, what and how much/long? Interested in your QT protocol.

Thanks!

I do, always. As hobbyist, I believe we're only fooling ourselves into thinking only fish that exhibit obvious illness, are considered "sick/unhealthy." Cryptocaryon's, aren't always visible. Studies have shown that they can be carried even in the gut, of the fish. Since the life-cycle is shown to extend as long 5-6 weeks, it is typical, that each fish is treated in QT, for this period of time.

I've also seen studies that show that on average, 30-40% of the wild caught specimens, are hosts of stomach worms. This is often witnessed by fish that seem un-ordinarily skinny, no matter how much food you feed. In the wild, they can combat this by a constant source of food. To the contrary, in our aquariums.

Each fish that arrives, is immediately drip acclimated anywhere between 30 minutes to 2 hours, for the QT system. During the time that they reside in the QT, they arrive into a system that is running Seachem's Cupramine @ 0.4mg/L, 0.5mg/L and up to 0.6mg/L. The dosage, often depends on the hardiness of each specimen. Cupramine, is shown to be effective at 0.2mg/L, but the suggested dosage is 0.5mg/L. In addition, I also treat on a continual basis, Hakari's Prazi Pro. This product is highly affective for treatment for Flukes, Tapeworm, Flatworm, Turbellarians & can be used in conjunction with Cupramine. Now, there are a number of other products that could have harmful results if mixed with Cupramine, that I would not suggest using in conjunction. I've proven tests of the harmless mixture of the two and you can safely do the same. Thanks for the questions and feel free, to ask others or check out my QT youtube videos.

 

[Deinonych]

Thank you very much for the info. Do you find that wrasses, in general, tolerate Cupramine well? If so, at what concentration do you usually treat them prophylactically? My reason for asking is that I have found that flasher wrasses (and maybe other genera) do not tolerate chloroquine phosphate well, so I am looking into other methodologies. I have stopped using Cupramine since I started using CP, but I may have to go back to it for certain species.

 

[SomeDude12]

Thank you very much for the info. Do you find that wrasses, in general, tolerate Cupramine well? If so, at what concentration do you usually treat them prophylactically? My reason for asking is that I have found that flasher wrasses (and maybe other genera) do not tolerate chloroquine phosphate well, so I am looking into other methodologies. I have stopped using Cupramine since I started using CP, but I may have to go back to it for certain species.

Cupramine, is the the least toxic form of copper in the trade (that I'm aware of). The only species that I find do not tolerate treatments well, are any form of clownfish. I find they do fine for a short period of time, as in days, but experience health issues thereafter, often leading to death.

I treat wrasses the same, no matter the family. Even wrasses in the Halichoeres & Macropharyngodon, families. Many people, will tell you that a "sandbed" is required, this is not true. In reality, when first introduced into the aquaria, I highly suggest the contrary. I'm currently housing a female Macropharyngodon meleagris in QT, as we speak. Just recently, completed a 3 week QT in the same system w/ 2 Halichoeres iridis', with zero issues. They typically just lay flat, when sleeping. I can't tell you how many Macropharyngodon's, in the past, that I lost and introduced with a sand-bed. Most of which would bury themselves immediately, to never see them again. Understanding the fact that these specimens are shipped from all over the world and in different time zones, speaks for only one of the issues that come into play here. Where they could be used to sleeping during a certain period of day, may be the opposite of your photo period. To add, adding these fish to a tank without a sandbed, allows them the opportunity to witness food every single time it enters the tank and when the lights are on, they have no choice but to get used to your timezone & awake. One of my local fish stores mentioned to me one day of the difficulties they were having with these species of wrasses, stating that once they entered the aquarium (w/ sandbed), he almost never saw them again. I told him to introduce them into a bare-bottom tank and he said his success rate with these classes, had significantly increased. I can go on and on, about the logical reasons why you should not introduce these wrasses into an aquarium, right out of the ocean, with a sand-bed.

In reference to the QT process overall: I feel that it's an injustice not only to the fish, but our aquariums, to not QT & treat EVERY single fish (at minimum - fish) that enters our systems. Honestly, I personally believe it should be a requirement, for anyone in the hobby. After having the experiences in the hobby without a QT system and with one, I can personally make this statement. That's how much I believe in the process and necessity of it. We are risking not only large amounts of investments we put into the aquariums, but the livestock that is counting on you to care for them to best of current technologies, knowledge & sciences, permit/allow/support.

 

[Deinonych]

In reference to the QT process overall: I feel that it's an injustice not only to the fish, but our aquariums, to not QT & treat EVERY single fish (at minimum - fish) that enters our systems. Honestly, I personally believe it should be a requirement, for anyone in the hobby. After having the experiences in the hobby without a QT system and with one, I can personally make this statement. That's how much I believe in the process and necessity of it. We are risking not only large amounts of investments we put into the aquariums, but the livestock that is counting on you to care for them to best of current technologies, knowledge & sciences, permit/allow/support.

I agree 100%. I use a QT for everything that goes into my tank, even invertebrates. I appreciate your sharing your QT protocol. Thanks!

 

[SomeDude12]

I agree 100%. I use a QT for everything that goes into my tank, even invertebrates. I appreciate your sharing your QT protocol. Thanks!

No problem. Any time!

 

[SomeDude12]

Here's an update of the Moorish Idols, at day 35. They've done very well and are now in the 125 Display. Hopefully, they acclimate as well in their new home as they did in the QT.

 

[humaguy]

Cupramine, is the the least toxic form of copper in the trade (that I'm aware of). The only species that I find do not tolerate treatments well, are any form of clownfish. I find they do fine for a short period of time, as in days, but experience health issues thereafter, often leading to death.

I treat wrasses the same, no matter the family. Even wrasses in the Halichoeres & Macropharyngodon, families. Many people, will tell you that a "sandbed" is required, this is not true. In reality, when first introduced into the aquaria, I highly suggest the contrary. I'm currently housing a female Macropharyngodon meleagris in QT, as we speak. Just recently, completed a 3 week QT in the same system w/ 2 Halichoeres iridis', with zero issues. They typically just lay flat, when sleeping. I can't tell you how many Macropharyngodon's, in the past, that I lost and introduced with a sand-bed. Most of which would bury themselves immediately, to never see them again. Understanding the fact that these specimens are shipped from all over the world and in different time zones, speaks for only one of the issues that come into play here. Where they could be used to sleeping during a certain period of day, may be the opposite of your photo period. To add, adding these fish to a tank without a sandbed, allows them the opportunity to witness food every single time it enters the tank and when the lights are on, they have no choice but to get used to your timezone & awake. One of my local fish stores mentioned to me one day of the difficulties they were having with these species of wrasses, stating that once they entered the aquarium (w/ sandbed), he almost never saw them again. I told him to introduce them into a bare-bottom tank and he said his success rate with these classes, had significantly increased. I can go on and on, about the logical reasons why you should not introduce these wrasses into an aquarium, right out of the ocean, with a sand-bed.

In reference to the QT process overall: I feel that it's an injustice not only to the fish, but our aquariums, to not QT & treat EVERY single fish (at minimum - fish) that enters our systems. Honestly, I personally believe it should be a requirement, for anyone in the hobby. After having the experiences in the hobby without a QT system and with one, I can personally make this statement. That's how much I believe in the process and necessity of it. We are risking not only large amounts of investments we put into the aquariums, but the livestock that is counting on you to care for them to best of current technologies, knowledge & sciences, permit/allow/support.

angels, especially centropyge, are very, very sensitive to cupramine and the dosage must be ramped up very slowly, perhaps 2-3 times slower than is recommended or the fish will suffer and die...it is also advisable to keep under the 0.5 recommended therapeutic level...Prime and any other ammonia binding agent must not be used while using Cupramine as they create a toxic mix that can wipe out a tank in a few hours..
while many wrasses are okay not having a sandbed- it is a good idea to put a small plastic bowl full of sand for many of the more sensitive fish to seek safety and sleep in...
agree, qt is perhaps the most important step we can take in order to ensure a healthy dt...I leave my fish in qt a minimum of 8-10 weeks...

 

[SomeDude12]

while many wrasses are okay not having a sandbed- it is a good idea to put a small plastic bowl full of sand for many of the more sensitive fish to seek safety and sleep in...

This is a viable solution. One, which I have done before as well.

 

[Reef TV]

Are They Easily Stressed?