Typhoon III 37 tds
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AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
What is your tap water TDS? Is the 37 after the RO only or after the RO/DI? How old is the unit and how much water have you made with it?
Let it run 10 or 15 minutes and test tap water TDS, RO only TDS and RO/DI TDS. RO only TDS should be 96 to 99% less than tap water TDS and combined RO/DI TDS should be 0 to no more than 1 or 2. Let us know what you come up with.
Let it run 10 or 15 minutes and test tap water TDS, RO only TDS and RO/DI TDS. RO only TDS should be 96 to 99% less than tap water TDS and combined RO/DI TDS should be 0 to no more than 1 or 2. Let us know what you come up with.
The 37 TDS is after the RO/DI. The unit has been running for about 2 months.
Tap TDS is 190, RO is 10, and RO/DI is 15
The RO is within range, but the RO/DI is worse than the RO
I've heard of membrane creep when unit is directly hooked to sump, because it's calling for water almost continously to make up for evap, I have my unit like this
Tap TDS is 190, RO is 10, and RO/DI is 15
The RO is within range, but the RO/DI is worse than the RO
I've heard of membrane creep when unit is directly hooked to sump, because it's calling for water almost continously to make up for evap, I have my unit like this
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
I hope you did not get the 100 GPD membrane did you???? Is so you really need to return it for a 75 GPD true RO membrane, the 100 is really a nanofilter only rated at 90% rejection rate instead of 98% for the 75.
If you have the 75 you should be seeing a RO only TDS of no more than 4.
I would venture to say your DI resin is exhausted. A normal vertical 24oz refillable DI cartridge will treat approximately 3000 total TDS give or take so if you are putting a TDS of 37 into it you were exhausted after 81 gallons of water. If it stayed at a TDS of 10 you can treat about 300 gallons of water. If you had a properly working 75 GPD 98% rejection rate RO membrane you can expect to treat about 750 gallons before exhaustion. Big difference.
If you have the 75 you should be seeing a RO only TDS of no more than 4.
I would venture to say your DI resin is exhausted. A normal vertical 24oz refillable DI cartridge will treat approximately 3000 total TDS give or take so if you are putting a TDS of 37 into it you were exhausted after 81 gallons of water. If it stayed at a TDS of 10 you can treat about 300 gallons of water. If you had a properly working 75 GPD 98% rejection rate RO membrane you can expect to treat about 750 gallons before exhaustion. Big difference.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Some membranes have a part number on them if you unscrew the housing and remove it. What is your production rate? Take a measuring cup or other graduated container and time the flow for a few minutes or longer taking in to account there are 1440 minutes in a 24 hr period. Multiply the results by the correct minutes will get you pretty close to the size if your pressure is somewhere in the 50 to 60 psi range and you water is somewhere close to 77 degrees F.
As for the DI, if the RO/DI TDS is above 3 or 4 maximum it is exhausted. DO NOT use resin if it is much higher than that as DI resin starts releasing weakly ionized things back in to the water stream and a few of the most weakly ionized things are nitrates, phosphates and silicates, all of which are bad for a reef. I change my resin as soon as I start seeing any reading above 0 at all. Do not rely on color changing resin to reliably tell you anything. It is a very poor indicator of condition, use a TDS meter.
As for the DI, if the RO/DI TDS is above 3 or 4 maximum it is exhausted. DO NOT use resin if it is much higher than that as DI resin starts releasing weakly ionized things back in to the water stream and a few of the most weakly ionized things are nitrates, phosphates and silicates, all of which are bad for a reef. I change my resin as soon as I start seeing any reading above 0 at all. Do not rely on color changing resin to reliably tell you anything. It is a very poor indicator of condition, use a TDS meter.
Production rate is about 60 GPD. I filled a gal container and it took 24 minutes. water is colder than 77 degrees. The DI has also changed from black to amber. I'll order a new one tonight.
how often should I change all the other filters........sediment is orange (well water) the other 2 look ok??
how often should I change all the other filters........sediment is orange (well water) the other 2 look ok??
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Pre filter and carbon should be changed at least every 6 months. If the pre and carbons are done as suggested the membrane should last about 3+ years. DI resin is entirely dependent on RO product water TDS and how much water you make, but the 3000 total TDS number is a pretty good idea of how long it should last, divide 3000 by your normal RO only TDS and you will be very close.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Th horizontal filter on the top is the RO membrane itself. It goes 10 micron sediment prefilter, 5 micron carbon block, 1 micron carbon block, up to the RO membrane and finally back down to the refillable DI filter on the far end. You can buy bulk DI resin much cheaper than throw away cartridges. Make sure wherever you buy it from it is vacuum packed in single use packages, if not it can dry out and go bad. It needs to be stored in a cool place and kept moist once it is opened.
Have you ever back flushed it, my TDS will creep up to 5 after I have run 100 gallons or so though it, after I back flush it for 10 minutes it drops back to 0. By the way my tap water is over 400, I have been using a typhoon 3 for two years and only had to replace the filters one time.
I just "fast flushed" it a while ago and the tds did drop from 37 to 15. I run the unit direct to my sump with the float valve that came with it. I've heard a thing called membrane creep happens??? and shortens the life of the filters and membrane because of constant on/off???? anyone hear of this?? why would they sell the unit with that option???
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
You shouldn't need anything but the DI resin at this time. You fill the cartridge clear to the top and tap it on the counter a few times to really pack it well so you don't get channeling or short circuiting. I suppose you could order the filter replacement pack along with the resin to save another shipping cost but they should not be needed yet.
Once you have the new DI installed, let the RO run about 10 or 15 minutes and first test the tap water TDS, triple rinse the meter and glass or whatever you are testing in with DI water, next test the RO only TDS, again triple rinse with DI and finally test the RO/DI TDS. Always use a squeaky clean glass water glass that has no soap residue or water spots and rinse it well with DI when done so you get accurate readings. Always clean the TDS meter after each use with DI and put the cap back on it so it stays clean and accurate. Never put it away dirty after testing tap or RO water without first rinsing with distilled water or DI water.
Once you have the new DI installed, let the RO run about 10 or 15 minutes and first test the tap water TDS, triple rinse the meter and glass or whatever you are testing in with DI water, next test the RO only TDS, again triple rinse with DI and finally test the RO/DI TDS. Always use a squeaky clean glass water glass that has no soap residue or water spots and rinse it well with DI when done so you get accurate readings. Always clean the TDS meter after each use with DI and put the cap back on it so it stays clean and accurate. Never put it away dirty after testing tap or RO water without first rinsing with distilled water or DI water.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Not a good idea to plumb directly to the sump. If the float fails you flood the system with fresh water lowering the salinity plus the flood the house. You are better off either using a top off reservoir so you can only introduce a set amount of water in a failure or if you have to go to the sump use multiple float switches and a solenoid so you have a safety. Float switches can be set a few inches apart so you get longer filter runs which reduce the effect of TDS creep. Also by have 3 float switches you have an on and a off plus an emergency off in case the other fails. Thats a safe arrangement. www.autotopoff.com and other places sell setups like this.
AZDesertRat
In Memoriam
Unscrew the clear housing and inside is a cartridge that has a screw top. Dump the old resin, rinse it out and add 24 oz of new resin or however much fills it to the top , tap it down and reinstall the sponge and lid and put it back in the clear housing.
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