UV 80 Watt Emperor Aquatics - Review, plumbing and effects to Reef Aquarium

rldcpa

New member
I just bought and installed a 80 Watt Emperor Aquatics UV Sterilizer (#25080). My goal for the unit was clearer water, less algae and reduction in harmful organisms and bacteria. The unit is large being over 4 feel long and 5inches in circumference. The UV unit was $600 but you will have to add in some plumbing and a pump so another $100. I got a pump that can be dialed down from next to 0 to up to 500 gallons per hour. I have it dialed down to 256 gallons per hour which is about my total water volume. The manufacturer said I could go up to 336 gallons per hour if I want and it will still be able to kill everything that runs through it.

The Install - This is a high quality unit that assembles quickly. I ran the water test before inserting the bulb and hooking up the power supply and it passed. The plumbing was interesting as I had to take the 2" openings on the UV unit to 3/4" so used all schedule 80 pipe and fittings and for the last section used flexible tubing. I set the unit on the floor behind the tank and ran a Neptune Apex water sensor under the unit so in case there is ever a leak the sensor will shut down the pump, sound an alarm and email to me that there is a leak. Anyway, no leaks and everything went well.

Water Clarity - It has been running only about 2 days and the water which I thought was already pretty clear from the front view is now crystal clear. Then I went to look from the side of the tank and the 6" tank really looks amazing and looks so much clearer than it use to. I am really surprised how much clearer a tank could get. The UV makes more a difference then the Starphire Glass (I have Starphire only on the front and not on the sides).

Ick, Velvet, Bacteria and other diseases - As far as bacteria, ick, and other diseases, it will only kill what goes through it, so only free swimming diseases and bacteria will be killed. So UV will not cure a tank, but will control the amount in the tank.

Algae - I will update this blog for algae once some time goes by to see the effects.

Bad effects to Reef Tank from UV Sterilization - I will also update the blog for any bad effects to my coral. Hopefully I will not see any bad effects.

Overall, even though only 2 days in use, I am very pleased with the results already. I will keep you posted. Feel free to leave comments, questions, additions, critiques and feel free to share your experiences with UV.
 
I'm curious whether you installed your unit vertically or horizontally. I've heard you can install it either way but curious if one way is better than the other. I have the 150 watt smart HO version, which is roughly 6' long. Quite a large unit but I've heard emperor aquatics is the best UV sterilizer brand out there.
 
I set it right on the carpet behind my stand laying horizontally. I have the piping go up 24" and run the lines into the sump. It takes water from the return pump area (front side) and dumps it into the refugium (back side) which then overflows back into the return area which goes back into the tank.

I am sure some water gets recirculated but based on my flow its is less than 10%.

I did not want to run it vertically unless I was going to use it as a second return. I decided against a second return for various reasons such as the need for a larger pump, an additional unsightly return, and a greater chance of leak issues. However, the benefits would be slightly better water movement in your tank and less recirculating of water going through the UV unit.

At any time I can always switch the intake pump to the skimmer area of the sump if I want no recirculation possibilities.
 
I'm curious how important flow is w/r/t UV sterilizers. It seems like too much flow is a problem because it diminishes the sterilizer's effectiveness. But low flow seems OK so long as the sterilizer doesn't overheat. It simply means that pathogens and other microscopic organisms get their DNA altered (and therefore die) in addition to free floating algae. Am I thinking about this correctly? BTW, your post is really helpful and so timely-- I got my 150 Smart HO/UV recently but have not yet installed it. Really cool piece of equipment.
 
Yes flow matters...too much flow and it won't do what you want. However if you are only trying to clear your water and free algae you can use a lot more flow. Their site shows what flow you need. Better yet send a email to the company like I did and they will tell you the proper flow. For the unit you got I would think you could run around 700 gallons per hour and kill everything that passes through.

My 80 watt HO unit should be run at no higher than 336 per the company. Yours is double that wattage so I am guessing double that or 700 but check with them to be sure.

What size tank is yours for?
 
Most of the UV units come with a range of flow rates based on your goals for the unit. If, for example, you are trying to reduce parasites in the tank, the flow rate will be much slower. BTW, one way to easily determine if the flow rate is too slow and the unit overheating is if you have differential input and output temperatures.
 
The display is 700 gallons, the sump is 240 gallons with another 30 gallon acclimation/fragging/dipping station all tied in. about 1000 gallons system volume. There are a couple 150 gallon reservoirs but they are not tied in-- I use them for ATO and water changes. My plan is to run the 150 off of one of my sump returns (reeflo hammerhead gold) which I estimate will push about 4500 GPH at my head pressure. I noticed that emperor aquatics recommends plumbing in a bypass with true union ball valves, which enables you to slow down the flow through the sterilizer. Gate valves would make more sense but they call fir TUBVs instead. It seems like you really do need a flow meter on the sterilizer's output in order to verify. I like the idea of having a temperature probe on the output side although I have no idea how to plumb that in. I did find a flow meter from PVC Fittings Online and it looks like they mount into the PVC. Not cheap though (~$70).
 
I tested the flow the old fashioned way and am using a variable pump 0-500gph (its just a small pump with a dial that opens or closes the water input).

I hold the hose in one hand and a gallon container in the other and see how long it takes to fill it. For the settings I have on the pump it fills a gallon in 12 seconds, which is 5 gallons per minute or 300 gallons per hour. The manufacturer suggested 336 gph for my tank to kill all life forms.

I run the UV input line to the skimmer chamber of my sump, right next to the skimmer output. I run the UV output to the return chamber of my sump (this is a change I made to avoid any recirculating of the same water). This makes sure the water going to the UV has run through a sock and the skimmer.

Based on the above I get 100% of the tank and sump volume every hour.
 
Do you have any photos of how you have that plumbed? I am currently trying to design a new sump. I have 2 Aqua 57 watt sterilizers that I would like to use, but I also would like to have a refugium. Since I have not designed my sump yet what you are doing may be an option for me. What do you think?
 








Here are some photo's. My sump is 115 gallons of which 20 gallons are fresh water for my ATO, then the skimmer section with the Herbie style drains which are silent and goes into a sock, then the return area and to the right is refugium which I have a small pump feed it from the return area.

The UV is behind the tank on the floor and two 3/4" tubes come in. One hooked up to a pump which you can see right by the skimmer output and the other goes into the return area after running through the UV.

Photo's are at night and are not that great but hopefully you get the idea.

The towel under the UV is so if I ever have a leak (which I doubt I could based on the way I cemented the PVC together) it will get damp and set off my Neptune Apex leak sensor which is under the towel. I have another inside the cabinet.
 
Thank you. That does help. I am trying to plan my custom sump which I wanted to incorporate a refugium. I didn't know how I could use my refugium and sterilizers together so that the sterilizers would not kill all the good things from the refugium. I like the idea of placing a pump after the sump and pouring either directly into the return area or perhaps into a small area before the refugium. Since I have 2 Aqua sterilizers I wonder if hooking them to one pump with a connector or 2 separate pumps would be better. At least I feel there are some options. Thank you for the pictures. I'm not sure I understand how the herbie drains enter the socks. Do you mean the Herbie drains from your DT go into the socks?
 
I'll send a few pics of mine. It's not fully set up yet but maybe it'll give you some ideas. My plan is to plumb it into the return line fri. The sump. That way the critters in the refugium won't get zapped. Even though your UV isn't emperor aquatics, check out their manual because it offers some plumbing configuration ideas that will help you regulate flow through the UV without decreasing overall flow or increase head pressure. Note that I intend to deviate from their instructions by using gate valves instead of ball valves. It'll make more sense once I post pics.
 
I probably use too many smaller pumps but the electricity is little for them so no big deal and the pumps are cheap.

My refugium is all the way to the right and I have some rubble in it and Chaeto that grows and I take a handful out every 2 weeks as it grows back quickly.

The DT has 3 drains in the overflow of which 1 has a gate valve and is silent. The 2nd drain gets a small amount of water, very small. Both of these go in the sock and are below the waterline of the sump. The third safety drain does not go through a sock as it never has water going through it...if it ever does, it means something in the main drain is plugged. So, this third drain ends 3" above the water so that if I ever hear splashing, I will know that something is plugging the other lines. Of course this has never happened and probably never will, but I sleep well at night knowing I have 3 drains with only one normally taking all the water.

My wires are a bit insane behind the tank and I need to clean that up a bit but as I have added more equipment I have not yet taken care of it the way I want.

I could have the return from the UV go to the refugium or to the return area and then I could get rid of one pump. But I figure more flow in the sump is good so there will be less sediment and debris and better circulation.

By the way, be sure to buy some of your local utility stock as your electric bill is going to go crazy. My tank cost at least $100 per month, with summers being cheaper than winters. Good luck and have fun as I have really enjoyed this hobby.
 
my GAWD kind sir but you have a wiring hazard...

I bought a bracket for my 40watt Emperor Aquatics and nailed it behind my stand with one side higher than the other to allow water to flush out completely in case of a power outage or routine maintenance.
 
My wires are insane. No plugs are on the ground and are all attached to a board but the wires behind the tank are numerous. I do have the loop drip on all plugs so no issue there. I can organize and untangle which will help some but I have:

2 heaters, 3 pumps, ATO Pump, Skimmer, Apex, Apex Extension for more plugs, UV, 3 LED's, 3 powerheads, and that equals 16 cords...

Not sure what can be done as everyone has this issue and its behind the stand so you see no wires.

If you have suggestions, please let me know.
 
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brah, it can be cleaned and organized. a few zip ties will clean it up.

my set up has a lot of equipment and I mean a lot and it stays tidy.

first step is go to lowe's and get two brackets. mount it on the back of your stand and put the UV on top then zip tie the cords for the UV.
 
I agree that UV can be beneficial in a reef tank. The bulb life is an issue but for me the deal breaker is keeping the quartz tube clean. As time passes and that light film starts to accumulate on the quartz, the effectiveness of the UV diminishes. And taking the tube out for cleaning can develop into leaks regarding the tube seals. I went with ozone but to each his own. Good luck, Neil
 
Wondering SaltwaterShark if you plumbed your uv light as of yet. Looking forward to some pictures so that I can get ideas. Since I'm still in planning stages I definitely need ideas of how to do this. Do you have an internal or external skimmer? I also will have to purchase one since my current skimmer is not adequate. Thanks
 
keeping the quartz tube clean.

this is the reason why i have it on a bracket with one side higher than the other so that when you turn off the pump the water flushes back into the sump and allows you to remove the quartz without getting the floor wet.
 
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