UV leds. Is there any new information out there

The Guys at vivid tried to match the par levil to be equil on each side of the tank.You yube it. Its kind of cool.

Apogee states that PAR meters typically read 40% different when testing LED's (because of their narrow output spectrum). Wonder if they took that into consideration.

Test is a good idea, but even in ideal lab conditions, it would be extremely difficult to obtain accurate data.

What about feedings? How can you guarantee each coral is getting an identical amount of food?

Without being able to ensure every other variable (there are many in this test), results obtained fall far short of any definitive answer.
 
Only thing that really matters is that coral grows and colors just fine under leds, and the way that the leds make them pop is un matchable.
 
If the par on each side is equil,What is missing with the leds ?

Spectrum.

PAR is about as specific as lumens regarding spectral distribution as it is a measure of amplitude across a fairly broad range. I suspect the quantum meter employed at Vivid for the comparison has a broad range sensor as opposed to multiple sensors tuned for narrow bands. The aggregate energy could be distributed anywhere within the sensors range, and the sensor probably does not exhibit a linear response within that range.

If you shift the dominant frequency significantly you may have to wait for the corals zooanthellae population to adapt before the long term effects can be known.

I think spectral diversity within the PAR curve is the way to go. I've read that Cree XT-E RB LEDs are available in color bins sorted to 5nm but I can't find a retailer that sells multiple color bins. I think some 7 LED clusters might be interesting including of course some 420nm violet content.
 
Spectrum.

PAR is about as specific as lumens regarding spectral distribution as it is a measure of amplitude across a fairly broad range. I suspect the quantum meter employed at Vivid for the comparison has a broad range sensor as opposed to multiple sensors tuned for narrow bands. The aggregate energy could be distributed anywhere within the sensors range, and the sensor probably does not exhibit a linear response within that range.

If you shift the dominant frequency significantly you may have to wait for the corals zooanthellae population to adapt before the long term effects can be known.

I think spectral diversity within the PAR curve is the way to go. I've read that Cree XT-E RB LEDs are available in color bins sorted to 5nm but I can't find a retailer that sells multiple color bins. I think some 7 LED clusters might be interesting including of course some 420nm violet content.

This is why there is a trend towards implementing emitters in colors other than just blue and white when building an LED array.
 
Personally, I think that 60% FEDY 20k whites an 40% FEDY 450-455nm is the way to go for the whites and blues. Then to supplement the other neccessary spectrums is to add pink leds which have a nice spectrum curve that also has a tall curve from about 550nm to 660nm rather than adding the intense red leds and also helps to warm the white spectrum. And also the 418-420nm violet leds are neccessary and have a very substantial amount of par and color spectrum that helps with poly extension and coloration. The best ratio I've found to go with is to do 60 20k White/40 Royal Blue with 1 led per 12 sq. inches, 1 Pink for every 230 sq. inches, and 1 420nm Violet for every 115 sq. inches.
 
Only thing that really matters is that coral grows and colors just fine under leds, and the way that the leds make them pop is un matchable.


Makes them pop yes but grow and being able to sustain that growth and color over the long term is still in question. I've seen a couple successful SPS reefs with led's but nothing to write home about
 
Makes them pop yes but grow and being able to sustain that growth and color over the long term is still in question. I've seen a couple successful SPS reefs with led's but nothing to write home about

Again, why many are experimenting with supplying different parts of the spectrum that standard blue/white LED do not produce.
 
I've done experimenting with different colors such as green, true blue, red, pink, and violet. So far I've found pink and violet help with coral happiness while still giving a nice appeal.
 
I've done experimenting with different colors such as green, true blue, red, pink, and violet. So far I've found pink and violet help with coral happiness while still giving a nice appeal.

Yeah I got that from page 1...

You didn't see any benefit to providing anything in the 475-485 nm range?
 
That's about the only spectrum range I haven't toyed with. Cant seem to find much availavle in that range that is not Cree
 
That's about the only spectrum range I haven't toyed with. Cant seem to find much availavle in that range that is not Cree

Have something against Cree (other than price?)

I have some green bridgelux's coming in in the next few weeks, unfortunately, I haven't been able to find any bridgelux datasheets.
 
Just too expensive and no need for them because they are too bright so you underdrive them and end up paying too much for an led that you couldve bought much cheaper. Just kinda of anti-Cree. The FEDY 20k have 220 lm at 750mA and according to the datasheet they sent me they are rated to 1200mA so there is a lot of room for increase. I run mine at a max of about 800mA for longevity. The Crees are 260 at 700mA so theres not a whole lot of difference when you compare the prices.

Most of the green bridgelux's I've found or bought are somewhere in the 510nm-530nm range. I haven't been able to find a blue that goes past 470nm unfortunately...
 
Just too expensive and no need for them because they are too bright so you underdrive them and end up paying too much for an led that you couldve bought much cheaper. Just kinda of anti-Cree. The FEDY 20k have 220 lm at 750mA and according to the datasheet they sent me they are rated to 1200mA so there is a lot of room for increase. I run mine at a max of about 800mA for longevity. The Crees are 260 at 700mA so theres not a whole lot of difference when you compare the prices.

Most of the green bridgelux's I've found or bought are somewhere in the 510nm-530nm range. I haven't been able to find a blue that goes past 470nm unfortunately...

I have a pair of 495 nm turquoise's coming in soon from led group buy, but again, can't find a datasheet. Wonder if they produce anything in the 475-485 nm range?

Also have a pair of 470 nm blues.

Looking forward to getting things set up and playing around with color combos.
 
be carefull as uv spectrum (below 380-400nm) is absorbed by plastic so you shouldn't be using lenses or any type of plastic shield with them!

as for water blocking out most UV light this is not true, the absorbtivity in the UV/VIS spectrum is extremly low in the 280-vis spectrum (within reasonable depths >1m... its more surface scattering that is the problem.

you can see the absorbtivity of instant ocean water here(assuming figure 2 is at 35ppt concentration..it doesnt say otherwise as in the other figures) http://www.ccalmr.ogi.edu/blog/milesd/v_measuring_persulfate_decay_extreme_temperatures
 
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Oh dear, I just posted a similar thread before finding this one which I somehow missed in my previous search and reading - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19963328#post19963328 which went as follows:

Does anyone use UV LED's to achieve coral flourescence?

In getting into reefs, I'd like to achieve a 'natural' looking spectrum of light (i.e. sunlight temperature light very near the surface), and the very bluish-purple saturated look common to many reef tanks is not quite my favourite as I personally find it disconcertingly unnatural looking.

So I'd like to both get the daylight look while getting coral colours to really pop. Possible solution perhaps? I'm looking at UV LED's at 365 nm. Light above 380 or 390 is visible to us, while wavelengths shorter than 320 nm are dangerous to our eyes, (and would give you a tan). So the 365 nm long-wave UV light seems like a good wavelength, as that wouldn't shift the look of the lighting too much, wouldn't be dangerous to our stock and ourselves, but would still make colours really pop. Might this work okay?

Sunlight, as well as MH light both contain UV wavelengths, so it's not as if it's something unnatural or unusual to reefs or reef tanks. If you did light your tank with a bit of medium wavelength UV light, then you would also have the corals producing colourful extra pigments to protect themselves from these wavelengths (just as we too tan in the sun). This seems a little more risky, though almost tempting to try in small amounts... The risk of too much UV light, or too much of any light in general, is of course photo-inhibition, but so long as you're not overdoing it I wouldn't guess this would be a significant risk.

Here is a decent article on some of these matters, with some excerpts - http://reefworks.co.uk/articles/obta...m-your-corals/
"Dunlap and Chalker (1986) found three S-320 compounds in Acropora formosa which absorb light between 310 and 340nm and claim that these compounds are seen in corals as violet or fluorescent pigments."
"it has been shown that UV radiation in the wavelengths also known to induce colouration in corals can result in photoinhibition when exposed at the levels given off by metal halide bulbs."


Accordingly, I was starting to think something along the lines of using the following, in the form of high-powered LED chips.
Series 1: Natural/Neutral White 5000-5500K as one series. (I want decently balanced warm enough light to get the warm colours in the tank to pop as well).
Series 2: Royal Blue
Series 3: Blue, Cyan, Violet, Ultraviolet at 365 nm - http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/L...Kl2RitEyO3c=

I'd likely want to use a diffuser on the chips such as the Blue, Cyan, Violet, and Ultraviolet, to make sure they cover the entire tank relatively uniformly without any spotlighting. With the different series I could tune the overall colour temperature, intensity, and highlight colours up or down as much as I desire. In any case, it seems that Royal Blues actually do a better job than UV of getting coral colours to pop, but I wouldn't want to use too much of them, as that would overpower the look with too sterile of light, which is why I thought supplementing the RB with UV might be a good combo.

The 10K light I usually see recommended I suppose might be appropriate for large deep aquariums, where the cold lighting colour might help compensate for any yellowness to the water. However, in smaller tanks such as the 40 gallon range I have in mind, and so long as the water is kept very clear then I wouldn't have expected to need quite that cool of light colour. And 10K lighting seems to work better with MH than with LED, from what I gather thus far.

(There is also this true-UV fluorescent fixture, though I'm not yet sure what UV intensity you'd actually want and whether this would be far too much for most tanks http://glowinc.com/detail.aspx?ID=83).

P.S. I'm a noob, so bear with me if I'm way off on anything here!

P.S.S. I was at an architectural lighting expo this week and one manufacturer there had 98 CRI LED's even. So I'm speaking to them now to see if those would be available to purchase individually. 98 CRI might achieve quite a considerable jump in enabling every colour in our reefs to look quite naturally as they do under true sunlight, so that's certainly an interesting development as well.
 
Polycarbonate Plastic

Polycarbonate Plastic

be carefull as uv spectrum (below 380-400nm) is absorbed by plastic so you shouldn't be using lenses or any type of plastic shield with them!
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Yes, most of Polycarbonate (PC) Plastics are natural UV absorber.

If I remember right, for PC lenses used in spectacles, thickness over 2mm will absorb nearly 100% UV (per ANSI, CE eyewear standard).
 

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