valentini puffer white spots

[Rover88]

Sounds fair, thats what I did. Hold on a second...

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2635979

Have a look through that. Some fish don't tolerate Cupramine/Copper well.


Best of luck!

 

[nereefpat]

Where does it say that I am a shrimp sales man? It's a joke, and the only reason I could come up with for giving such advice.
And where did I say that solves the problem??

Here

Get a cleaner shrimp [emoji1360] it'll handle that ich real quick. It's a scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp. It'll probably save ur fish life


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[Uncle99]

I think I will go with the cupramine method as well, Seems the easiest for a noob.

Cupramine works well on hardy species but can be problematic on delicates like tangs. If you go with cupramine, you must stay within manufactures guideline of dosage less will not work, more will kill the fish.

I have used both cupramine and hypo on damsels, especially clowns, etc.

I cant stress feeding enough....it's as important as treatment. I used a syringe and frozen brine and fed them twice a day, one piece at a time. They may have stopped eating, or will stop, or eat and spit, don't worry, just keep it up.

You may consider lowering salinity to 1.021 or 1.022, this will aid in respiration.

Just remember when finished, take it upwards real slow at no more than .002 per day.

Treat, feed, water change, watch ammonia, put some PVC angles as hiding places, low light is fine

 

[tjm9331]

I'm not 100% sure but I'm fairly certain that puffers are sensitive to copper treatment. I had a porcupine puffer at one point (lost him to ich, before I learned about TTM :sad1: )

I had read during that time that puffers were sensitive to copper treatment. I would make sure you do your research on the valentini before going forward with the cupramine

 

[Uncle99]

I'm not 100% sure but I'm fairly certain that puffers are sensitive to copper treatment. I had a porcupine puffer at one point (lost him to ich, before I learned about TTM :sad1: )

I had read during that time that puffers were sensitive to copper treatment. I would make sure you do your research on the valentini before going forward with the cupramine

Above is very good advice...always check before meds used

 

[Icewing726]

Quarantine for 72 days if you want, quarantine for 90 days like some people do if you want, or read up on the fish and see if he's more ich prone then others.

Some fish live near or in the substrate and have thicker mucus layers and can better handle ich, whereas some are only near the substrate because we put them there in our aquarium and are more prone to get ich like the blue hippo tang. I did a real fast, and I mean really fast, cursory search to see if that puffer was referred to as an ich magnet and didn't find anything so its possible hes the type that can handle the parasite. If he is, feed him well and reduce the stress. You could try vacuuming the substrate as you see the cysts leaving him in an effort to reduce the concentration of ich in the tank while he recovers.

Totally up to you, just understand that fish can build up their immunity to this parasite and have a long happy life without quarantine. Plus, that 72 number is overly cautious and worthless if you ever plan on adding anything wet in the future without quarantining (snails, anemones, anything that goes in the water that wasn't frozen first).

 

[Tyler438]

So, I started treating with Imagitarium parasite remedy which was suggested to me by Petco. I don't know if the treatment killed my puffer or the Ich did but after the 2nd dose, the next morning I found my starfish devouring my puffer. All the other fish seem healthy and in good spirits. I used the lower doses twice a day, every other day rather than the large dose every day, figured it would be less stressful. My question is should I continue to treat the tank or stop. I had not used a QT, up to this point because they suggested I try this 1st. I don't see any issues on the other fish.

 

[Rover88]

So, I started treating with Imagitarium parasite remedy which was suggested to me by Petco. I don't know if the treatment killed my puffer or the Ich did but after the 2nd dose, the next morning I found my starfish devouring my puffer. All the other fish seem healthy and in good spirits. I used the lower doses twice a day, every other day rather than the large dose every day, figured it would be less stressful. My question is should I continue to treat the tank or stop. I had not used a QT, up to this point because they suggested I try this 1st. I don't see any issues on the other fish.

Imagitarium isn't going to cure Ich. I am sorry for the loss of the fish, but all the various 'medications' that are sold as 'Ich Cures' don't work except for what was mentioned in here. Either because they literally are useless, don't target Ich at the right times, or simply aren't effective.

All the reviews I've read that say it 'worked' mentioned 'Worked great, within a few days all the ich fell off my fish, its cured!' .... That is the natural lifecycle of Ich. Surprise surprise, they'll be buying it again in a week or so to 'cure the fish again' when it comes back.



In short Tyler, even if you don't see the Ich it is in your tank. Your fish might be hardy towards it, they might be immune, or it might just be in their gills where you don't see it. Thats usually the first place Ich goes.

There is no treatment you can put inside your tank that will cure the ich without catching and removing the fish, and letting the display run Fallow. Or dosing Cupramine/copper into the display, but if you do that all the inverts and corals will die.

As I said in my first post, I really wish there was cause I'm in the process of treating it in my own display. I wouldn't trust PetCo over those in the thread that have chimed in.

 

[tjm9331]

That is very unfortunate news, sorry for the loss of your puffer.

I agree with Rover, I would never take advice from Petco over someone from these forums.

If you took the time to really inspect the saltwater fish at Petco I guarantee you will find at least one fish with visible ich which means all the fish have ich. If the chemicals worked so well, why don't they use it themselves to rid their system of the parasite? It would certainly help sell the fish and it would be a good testament to the product, fact is they don't use it (or maybe they do and the fish still show signs of ich) because it doesn't work. Trust us, trust the tried and true methods and I promise you'll have a successful tank with happy healthy fish.

 

[nereefpat]

[
Once the fish are isolated, you can try a copper based medication, tank transfer method, or hyposalinity. Those three are the /only/ way to cure a fish of Ich.

That's unfortunate. You were told at the very beginning of the tread how to treat ich.

 

[Uncle99]

Petco versus Reef Central?
I would have gone with the reefers, anyhow, sorry about your loss.
The good news is you now know what Ick looks like and how Not to treat it.

Once in your tank, you must leave it fishless for 72 days, to eradicate Ick @ 99.99%.
As you use less days, the chance of reoccurrence goes up, this IS the ONLY way you can get rid of it.

i assume you have at least LiVE ROCK, so I would go the 72 days, at least you can improve your bacterial population, maybe add some inverts or corals while you wait....

 

[zheka757]

Once in your tank, you must leave it fishless for 72 days, to eradicate Ick @ 99.99%.

I dont know if that's 99.99% true any more! didn't work for me at least.

 

[Tyler438]

Quick question, do I leave the anemones, starfish, shrimp, and snail in the dt during the 72 hours?

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[tjm9331]

remember it's 72 DAYS not 72 hours starting from when you get all your fish out of the tank.

But yes you can leave all your inverts and coral in the DT during this process, the ich parasite does not harm these animals.

 

[nereefpat]

remember it's 72 DAYS not 72 hours starting from when you get all your fish out of the tank.

But yes you can leave all your inverts and coral in the DT during this process, the ich parasite does not harm these animals.

+1

Ich can't use inverts as a host.

 

[Tyler438]

Would you add live rock to the QT tank or leave it bare? I am setting it up now. Had to do it on a budget but I guess it will work.

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[squeakymcmurdo]

I have a plastic cave in my quarantine. Nice place for fish to hide and feel safe and easy to disinfect later.

 

[Tyler438]

Another question sorry just want to make sure I'm doing it right. I only have a penguin biowheel filter for the at tank. I should remove the mesh with the carbon correct? Should I put anything g else in its place or just leave with biowheel only? I put the carbon back in by canister filter to hopefully remove the 1st stuff from petco. I have lost my angel and blenny since the puffer. Do you think it's the ich or the medicine I put in the tank. I haven't seen any signs of ich on them or the clowns who still look and act healthy. The at tank was set up today how long should I let it establish before I move the clowns over.

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[Uncle99]

If you medicated your tank this is a waste of time.

Get your fish (and only fish) out of your DT and into QT.
Nothing fancy, tank, pail, whatever, heater, sponge filter, hiding place...no live rock, we are nit cycling this tank, daily water changes and vacuuming up uneaten food will keep ammonia from building.

Treat your fish:
Pick a treatment. Cupramine can be quite successful but is hard on delicates like tangs. Hypo works great but you must keep water at 1.009 until at least 21 days after the last spot is gone. You can bring down salinity fast over two days but going back up must be real slow, .002 max per day.
Have a read of the stickys fir more details of treatment.

Treat your DT:
This is the easier part. Continue to run your DT as normal, (but without fish) everything else stays....run for 72 DAYS this way and Ick will by gone.
By this time, any fish you saved can go back. This works every time.

 

[Uncle99]

If you medicated your tank this is a waste of time.

Ick is killing your fish, the medication is useless, petco is the same.


Get your fish (and only fish) out of your DT and into QT.
Nothing fancy, tank, pail, whatever, heater, sponge filter, hiding place...no live rock, we are nit cycling this tank, daily water changes and vacuuming up uneaten food will keep ammonia from building.

Treat your fish:
Pick a treatment. Cupramine can be quite successful but is hard on delicates like tangs. Hypo works great but you must keep water at 1.009 until at least 21 days after the last spot is gone. You can bring down salinity fast over two days but going back up must be real slow, .002 max per day.
Have a read of the stickys fir more details of treatment.

Treat your DT:
This is the easier part. Continue to run your DT as normal, (but without fish) everything else stays....run for 72 DAYS this way and Ick will by gone.
By this time, any fish you saved can go back. This works every time.