How do I treat with the copper if I'm doing daily water changes?
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valentini puffer white spots
- Thread starter Tyler438
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This requires some math.
First, find out how many drops per gallon/litre is recommended by the manufacturer
Once you know the “therapeutic” level of drops then if you take out say 2 litres and the level is 1 drop per litre, then put back 2 litres of saltwater plus 1 drop of cupramine.
Once you bring your QT to the recommended level, you need to maintain this level
Until all spots are gone + a couple more days, then you can stop adding the drops to the replacement saltwater and this will bring cupramine level down... you can also run carbon which would clean it as well.
Whatever you do, do not exceed manufactured dosage, but at the same time make sure the level is at par. Exceeding is guaranteed death.
First, find out how many drops per gallon/litre is recommended by the manufacturer
Once you know the “therapeutic” level of drops then if you take out say 2 litres and the level is 1 drop per litre, then put back 2 litres of saltwater plus 1 drop of cupramine.
Once you bring your QT to the recommended level, you need to maintain this level
Until all spots are gone + a couple more days, then you can stop adding the drops to the replacement saltwater and this will bring cupramine level down... you can also run carbon which would clean it as well.
Whatever you do, do not exceed manufactured dosage, but at the same time make sure the level is at par. Exceeding is guaranteed death.
I haven't seen this mentioned yet, maybe I missed it, but wouldn't you need a copper test kit so you know you are at the recommended level? I only ask because it seems the OP has never done this and either have I. If I asked about it myself, I probably wouldn't think about a test kit and just read the bottle and go.
I bought a copper test kit, and it is advised.
But I have a 30 gallon tank. At 'full dose' its 40 drops per 10 gallons, so 120 drops for a 30 gallon tank.
If I do a 5 gallon water change, I need to add (30/5=6, so 120/6 =20) 20 drops of medication to every 5 gallons I trade in and out.
In THEORY if none of the medication falls out of solution or is absorbed into the various things within the tank, this math will work out.
In reality I bought a test kit, just in case something odd happens. Because its not that much money for the peace of mind.
I agree with your math, copper test kit always a good idea but I had a hard time with the colour versus the card.
Once treatment starts, I would expect you to notice a big difference in spots in 4-6 days.
Feeding is important, sometimes they will either not eat or spit, don't be alarmed, just keep feeding what you can.
When Ick is in the gills/mouth it hard for them to eat, but once the medication starts to work, they will be hungry.
Once treatment starts, I would expect you to notice a big difference in spots in 4-6 days.
Feeding is important, sometimes they will either not eat or spit, don't be alarmed, just keep feeding what you can.
When Ick is in the gills/mouth it hard for them to eat, but once the medication starts to work, they will be hungry.
Bill_Moorman
New member
I would pull them out of the main tank for the fallow period.
While in QT, if you see a spot, start treatment that day. If you don't see spots, let them chill in their nice hotel room away from home!
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Ok, thanks but the thing is, its in THEORY as you stated...assuming everything works perfectly according to the math...I personally would rather do real life testing as opposed to relying on "math", which can put you in the ballpark but unless you know all the variables, it can be iffy....just my opinion...
Yup, exactly. That is why I bought the test kit for it.
Although in my situation, the math has worked flawlessly, based on the test kits results.
tjm9331
New member
honestly I would skip all the copper treatment and just perform tank transfer method then QT for the remainder of the fallow period.
TTM is pretty much the only guaranteed method (so long as its done right), copper works but if you don't get the math right then you'll either be low and won't kill the ich or you'll be too high and either stress the fish or worse yet kill them.
TTM is also the easiest and safest way to get rid a fish of ich imo
TTM is pretty much the only guaranteed method (so long as its done right), copper works but if you don't get the math right then you'll either be low and won't kill the ich or you'll be too high and either stress the fish or worse yet kill them.
TTM is also the easiest and safest way to get rid a fish of ich imo
While they may be fine, we just don't know for sure, Ick could be in the mouth or gills and not show on the skin surface. If you leave them in the Ick cycle will continue to revolve and your DT would never clear until those fish either died or were pulled, then...the 72 days starts all over again.
Clowns are quite hardy, and respond well to cupramine.
Treat all fish until you see no spots, go another 7-14 days, and ensure they are eating well...then remove the copper....they will be in Qt for 72 as well as the fish usually get better in the 14-30 days range with Copper.
Sorry, may have read your post incorrectly, wasn't sure where you would put the clowns if your treating with copper in the QT.
If you have another QT available to "watch" but not treat your clowns, it's your choice whether to treat or not until they show signs.
I assume once one fish has Ick, the others may as well but some strong fish can remain imune to the parasite....
If you have another QT available to "watch" but not treat your clowns, it's your choice whether to treat or not until they show signs.
I assume once one fish has Ick, the others may as well but some strong fish can remain imune to the parasite....
Thanks, I have moved them to a 10gal QT tanks with a heater at 78F, HOB biowheel filter which is rated for a 60gal tank so it should be moving water pretty well, and 2 small pieces of live rock. I'll keep an eye on them and go from there. I also got them some marine flake food with garlic, which they seem to be enjoying.
No, I have not started copper treatment. I bought some and I'm prepared to do so if they start showing signs of ich. I should be in the clear after 4 weeks if they don't show any symptoms correct? Obviously, I'll leave them in QT for the required 72 days needed for the DT.
Bill_Moorman
New member
Right on! Glad to hear they are doing okay. The water movement isn't vital for just the fish, but you want to make sure you have surface agitation to help with O2 exchange. I've read a TON about crypto (the true name of marine ich) and from what I have learned garlic won't prevent the parasites from attaching, rather, it entices the fish to eat. You want to feed them well to keep their immune system strong.
I thought I had a crypto outbreak because my clown had a white spot on her tail, but that was about a week ago (you can check my post history). I started soaking their breakfast (I rotate between flake, pellet, and frozen Mysis) in selcon and made sure they ate a ton (but not over feeding to cause a nitrate rise) and they are happy and fat haha.
I'd keep them in the QT for at least 30 days just to make sure they don't become infected. If they do, check out the stickies about treating crypto and you'll be in good shape.
Keep us updated!
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No, you will not be clear if they don't start showing signs.
Ich does not always show. This is for a few reasons, but the most common being its in the gills where you can't see it. I know that my clown fish never showed signs of ich even after three other fish were lost and every other fish was showing signs, they seemed fine. But they got treated too.
You should treat them in copper for the minimum 2 week period, and preferably 4 week period. This isn't prophylactic treatment, you aren't guessing that they might be sick. If they were in a tank with another fish that had ich, it is safe to assume they have ich. Do you really want to risk another 72 day fallow period by leaving the clowns with a chance of having ich, adding a new fish not as 'strong' as they are, and watching that fish succumb to the ich the clowns can handle?
To answer your questions:
They do not need a light. Many people say its better to keep it dim as its less stressful.
The small pieces of live rock are fine, just don't move them back to the main display. While cupramine is supposedly very good at staying in solution and not tainting the rock with copper, you'll want to make those rocks your 'quarantine rocks'.
Yea that was my plan is to keep the rock in QT tank. OK, I'll start treating the clowns with Copper this weekend. Do I need to take out the carbon from the filters?
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