Viewpoints – A Photographic Journal of my Reef Tank
- Thread starter urbaneks
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urbaneks
New member
Viewpoints - 4/13 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 4/13 Responses to Feedback
ctxmonitor - The drawer slides are rated for 100lbs when they are fully extended which will not hold the weight of the sump with water in it. My design and plan is not to roll the sump out when it's full. Instead I will first drain the water from the sump and then be able to pull it forward to easily clean or work on the equipment in the sump. I just plumbed the tank over the weekend and did my leak test on Monday/Tuesday. When I drained the tank after the leak test, it provided my first opportunity to drain the sump and see how the extending shelf works. It's definitely a great feature and worked as planned.
Ty1e - Thanks for the initial view on the thread. I'm glad that you have found it informative to this point. Definitely more to come very soon.
Pallobi - Thanks for the view and comments. I did get my replacement tank in from Cad Lights. Since receiving it last Friday, I've been able to install the equipment panel, plumb the tank and do my leak test. I have some photos taken but have not had time to write anything up. I'm hoping to have some time tomorrow to get an update posted.
sahin - I wish I had loads of time! If I did my updates would come sooner. I will say that taking my time and doing it right the first time saves time for later. This entire hobby is about patience and I'm not in a big hurry to have the tank up and running. I enjoy the process of the build, maintaining the tank and all the work that is involved almost as much as the hobby itself. Thanks for the pro build comment, definitely makes me feel good about my work to this point.
Viewpoints - 4/13 Responses to Feedback
ctxmonitor - The drawer slides are rated for 100lbs when they are fully extended which will not hold the weight of the sump with water in it. My design and plan is not to roll the sump out when it's full. Instead I will first drain the water from the sump and then be able to pull it forward to easily clean or work on the equipment in the sump. I just plumbed the tank over the weekend and did my leak test on Monday/Tuesday. When I drained the tank after the leak test, it provided my first opportunity to drain the sump and see how the extending shelf works. It's definitely a great feature and worked as planned.
Ty1e - Thanks for the initial view on the thread. I'm glad that you have found it informative to this point. Definitely more to come very soon.
Pallobi - Thanks for the view and comments. I did get my replacement tank in from Cad Lights. Since receiving it last Friday, I've been able to install the equipment panel, plumb the tank and do my leak test. I have some photos taken but have not had time to write anything up. I'm hoping to have some time tomorrow to get an update posted.
sahin - I wish I had loads of time! If I did my updates would come sooner. I will say that taking my time and doing it right the first time saves time for later. This entire hobby is about patience and I'm not in a big hurry to have the tank up and running. I enjoy the process of the build, maintaining the tank and all the work that is involved almost as much as the hobby itself. Thanks for the pro build comment, definitely makes me feel good about my work to this point.
coralreefdoc
New member
Great to hear about the delivery, Brad ! I was just wanting to touch base with you and give your thread a friendly bump to keep it alive and on the radar, as its sure to be inspirational/educational to all fellow reefers. There's definitely been some funny coincidences between our two systems thus far. The fact we were originally supposed to be at the same pick up location, picking up similar dimensions, is kinda cool in itself. Also, thanks for the recommendation for Aquarium Specialty. Scott is a great guy and I recently gave him some good business in the form of most of my high end equipment list. Told him you personally referred me to his company, so next time you need something over there give him a call and remind him ! :beer:
urbaneks
New member
Viewpoints - Equipment Panel Installed
Viewpoints - Equipment Panel Installed
Viewpoints - Equipment Panel Installed
One of the first entries I made to the Viewpoints Journal was the construction of my equipment panel. The panel was built to house all of the equipment and provide a basis for my wire management. With the arrival of the replacement tank, I was finally able to install the panel and finalize my wire management.
My original plan was for the equipment panel to be installed on the back wall of the stand. Due to the size of the sump, the side of the stand ended up being the better option. One regret after having the panel installed is that the MP40 controllers are installed near the rear of the stand instead of the front. This change would have made it easier to put the tank into feed mode or change run modes on the units.
I ended up with 2 Energy Bar 8s on my Neptune system which provided me with more than enough controlled outlets and the ability to expand my system as needed. The Neptune controller is fixed to the panel with velcro which allows me to pull it from the stand for programming.
Since the above photo was taken, I added a cover to the wires that are running out of the stand. You can see a small portion of the cover in the photo below. Overall, I'm happy with how the panel turned out and the wire management is very clean. As with any do-it-yourself project, there are things I would do differently the next time.
Viewpoints - Equipment Panel Installed
Viewpoints - Equipment Panel Installed
One of the first entries I made to the Viewpoints Journal was the construction of my equipment panel. The panel was built to house all of the equipment and provide a basis for my wire management. With the arrival of the replacement tank, I was finally able to install the panel and finalize my wire management.
My original plan was for the equipment panel to be installed on the back wall of the stand. Due to the size of the sump, the side of the stand ended up being the better option. One regret after having the panel installed is that the MP40 controllers are installed near the rear of the stand instead of the front. This change would have made it easier to put the tank into feed mode or change run modes on the units.
Installed Equipment Panel
I ended up with 2 Energy Bar 8s on my Neptune system which provided me with more than enough controlled outlets and the ability to expand my system as needed. The Neptune controller is fixed to the panel with velcro which allows me to pull it from the stand for programming.
Since the above photo was taken, I added a cover to the wires that are running out of the stand. You can see a small portion of the cover in the photo below. Overall, I'm happy with how the panel turned out and the wire management is very clean. As with any do-it-yourself project, there are things I would do differently the next time.
A second view of the equipment panel
iwishtofish
Active member
Yes, very well-done. I am looking forward to seeing how the in-stand cooling and ventilation is put together.
Acronymous
In Memoriam
An OCD"s dream tank build! tagging along...
urbaneks
New member
Viewpoints - 4/16 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 4/16 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 4/16 Responses to Feedback
coralreefdoc - Thanks for the bump. I hope all is going well with your build, do you have a thread started? I'm glad that Scott at Aquarium Specialty took care of you. I've made two big orders from him and he's delivered both times. Very good company.
Fury165 - Thanks for the feedback on the equipment panel. I'm pleased with how it turned out as well.
iwishtofish - Thanks as well for the compliment. I'm hoping that a single fan on the sump is all I need for cooling. With the open top rimless tank and light mounted 11" off the top of the water, I'm hopeful that I can keep the tank temp at 80. If not, I will have to get working on solution.
Eh, thanks, I think. Not sure if I was just told I have OCD but at any rate, I'll take it as it comes. Thanks for the view and tag.
Viewpoints - 4/16 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 4/16 Responses to Feedback
coralreefdoc - Thanks for the bump. I hope all is going well with your build, do you have a thread started? I'm glad that Scott at Aquarium Specialty took care of you. I've made two big orders from him and he's delivered both times. Very good company.
Fury165 - Thanks for the feedback on the equipment panel. I'm pleased with how it turned out as well.
iwishtofish - Thanks as well for the compliment. I'm hoping that a single fan on the sump is all I need for cooling. With the open top rimless tank and light mounted 11" off the top of the water, I'm hopeful that I can keep the tank temp at 80. If not, I will have to get working on solution.
Eh, thanks, I think. Not sure if I was just told I have OCD but at any rate, I'll take it as it comes. Thanks for the view and tag.
Acronymous
In Memoriam
Oh I wasn't saying you had ocd. I was referring to your attention to detail. Although being reef obsessed isnt bad at all just bad on the wallet. Spectacular build by the way.
urbaneks
New member
Viewpoints - Plumbing Installation
Viewpoints - Plumbing Installation
Viewpoints "“ Plumbing Installation
One thing that I've learned during this last project, I am not a plumber. I'm quite certain that someone with experience would have plumbed my tank in less than an hour, where it took me a solid six. My tank came from Cad Lights predrilled with a 2 ¼" drain and a 1" return. I also paid a bit extra for them to include my durso drain and bulkheads. I made my first trip to Home Depot with nothing more than the bulk heads and the goals that I had in mind for the plumbing. I wanted to ensure that I could isolate the tank from the sump and disconnect the sump from the plumbing in order to utilize the extending sump shelf. I also wanted to ensure that the plumbing was cleanly installed and labeled.
Sump installed with final plumbing
For isolating the tank from the sump, I chose ball valves which are connected to the bulk heads just under the tank. I was able to find a ball valve that fit the 2 1/4" bulk head but could not find one to match the return line. As a result, I had to make this connection with the rubber union that is shown in the picture below. The labeling was done with a label maker that is capable of 3/4" labels. These valves will come in handy when I want to perform maintenance on the sump while keeping the tank circulating with the MP40s.
I also installed disconnect unions on both the supply and return lines. This allows me to disconnect the sump from the plumbing so the extending sump shelf can be pulled away from the plumbing. All of the PVC that is outside of the sump and tank was painted with black spray paint. I used some black vinyl to cover the pvc that enters the sump. Again, labels were applied to mark the lines and show the flow of water.
This last photo is a repeat of the first but shows the direction of travel for the water as it leaves the tank, enters the sump and is then returned back to the tank.
Viewpoints - Plumbing Installation
Viewpoints "“ Plumbing Installation
One thing that I've learned during this last project, I am not a plumber. I'm quite certain that someone with experience would have plumbed my tank in less than an hour, where it took me a solid six. My tank came from Cad Lights predrilled with a 2 ¼" drain and a 1" return. I also paid a bit extra for them to include my durso drain and bulkheads. I made my first trip to Home Depot with nothing more than the bulk heads and the goals that I had in mind for the plumbing. I wanted to ensure that I could isolate the tank from the sump and disconnect the sump from the plumbing in order to utilize the extending sump shelf. I also wanted to ensure that the plumbing was cleanly installed and labeled.
Sump installed with final plumbing
For isolating the tank from the sump, I chose ball valves which are connected to the bulk heads just under the tank. I was able to find a ball valve that fit the 2 1/4" bulk head but could not find one to match the return line. As a result, I had to make this connection with the rubber union that is shown in the picture below. The labeling was done with a label maker that is capable of 3/4" labels. These valves will come in handy when I want to perform maintenance on the sump while keeping the tank circulating with the MP40s.
Ball valves allow the tank to be isolated from the sump. Labeling was done with a 3/4" label maker
I also installed disconnect unions on both the supply and return lines. This allows me to disconnect the sump from the plumbing so the extending sump shelf can be pulled away from the plumbing. All of the PVC that is outside of the sump and tank was painted with black spray paint. I used some black vinyl to cover the pvc that enters the sump. Again, labels were applied to mark the lines and show the flow of water.
The disconnect union can be seen in the far right of the photo. Note painted plumbing outside of sump and vinyl used where plumbing enters the sump.
This last photo is a repeat of the first but shows the direction of travel for the water as it leaves the tank, enters the sump and is then returned back to the tank.
See colored arrows to map directional flow of the water
urbaneks
New member
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
Acronymous - No worries. I'm definitely a bit obsessed with reefing and when I build something, I typically go all out. No exception with my latest project. Thanks again for the comments and the views.
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
Acronymous - No worries. I'm definitely a bit obsessed with reefing and when I build something, I typically go all out. No exception with my latest project. Thanks again for the comments and the views.
iwishtofish
Active member
urbaneks, would it be possible to see an angled picture of the top of your sump as it is currently plumbed - perhaps a little more close-up? I see that it looks like your drain line falls and then has a slight uphill grade prior to falling again into the sump. One concern that comes to mind for me is trapped air. Is there a particular way this is avoided?
urbaneks
New member
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
iwishtofish - You are right on the money that my drain line rises again before it goes into the sump. Due to the size of the ball valve, the line has the slight elevation in it. What is the concern around the trapped air? What issue might I run into? Thanks for taking the time to notice and comment on a potential issue.
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 3/19 Responses to Feedback
iwishtofish - You are right on the money that my drain line rises again before it goes into the sump. Due to the size of the ball valve, the line has the slight elevation in it. What is the concern around the trapped air? What issue might I run into? Thanks for taking the time to notice and comment on a potential issue.
joesig
Member
Great set up, a place for everything and everything in it's place.
Tagging along.
About the air trapped in the drain I also have somewhat the same set up, more messy than yours but anyway. The only drawback to the drain is noise it gets a bit more turbulent in the drain and gets a bit noisy, but thats just in my case.
Great work.
Tagging along.
About the air trapped in the drain I also have somewhat the same set up, more messy than yours but anyway. The only drawback to the drain is noise it gets a bit more turbulent in the drain and gets a bit noisy, but thats just in my case.
Great work.
iwishtofish
Active member
It may not even be a potential issue at all, so I'm hoping others will chime in as well if it is or isn't. I'm just imaging water falling down the drain pipe, and, because of the rise at the bottom, filling the full pipe width nearly if not completely. That, with added turbulence from the sharp elbow at the bottom of the long vertical, may cause a mix of bubbles to form an air pocket that cannot easily escape - one that may cause "hiccups" in your drain pipe.
Now, please be aware that I am as far from expert as possible regarding the dynamics of air and water - this is just a gut feeling I have, and may warrant further research.
Enjoy
That's what she said....
Glad to hear that CadLights is helping you. I had a similar situation (not broken, but chipped) and Eddie, nor Clay would give me the time of day. I sent pictures and literally begged for them to help me out... but nothing.
Your build is amazing so far, and hopefully CadLights doesn't slow you down.
Your build is amazing so far, and hopefully CadLights doesn't slow you down.
Der ABT
New member
i think the issue with the rise and fall would be primarily noise.
other issue i see wtih the sump is it looks like the return line that is connected to the tank is below the top of the sump.. im guessing you have already tried to pull the sump out of the tank but if you havent i may double check that it clears and your able to pull the sump out.
One other small issue, mainly because of something that happened to me. DO NOT TRUST BATTERIES OVER A TANK....you stated you have 4 battery operated LEDs in the stand.....i had 1 AA battery fall into my tank and noticed it within about 2 hours.....80% loss of sps.....not that it will happen but if that double sided tape fails ugh.....Since you have an apex i would look into/or post in the LED board and see what you would need to do to simply hardwire the leds, my guess is it would just be a walwart with enough power to turn them on...your apex should be able to turn them on and off (though i think you said they are motion sensor which you could bypass or just leave alone if you arent goign to use a reverse schedule
granted these are nitpicking points, with how nice this build is...i mean you are making me feel ashamed to go home and look at my setup...will be building a similar board when i get the time. but figured id try to throw in 2 cents...dont take me as any form of an expert but....FREAKING NICE BUILD to echo the rest.
other issue i see wtih the sump is it looks like the return line that is connected to the tank is below the top of the sump.. im guessing you have already tried to pull the sump out of the tank but if you havent i may double check that it clears and your able to pull the sump out.
One other small issue, mainly because of something that happened to me. DO NOT TRUST BATTERIES OVER A TANK....you stated you have 4 battery operated LEDs in the stand.....i had 1 AA battery fall into my tank and noticed it within about 2 hours.....80% loss of sps.....not that it will happen but if that double sided tape fails ugh.....Since you have an apex i would look into/or post in the LED board and see what you would need to do to simply hardwire the leds, my guess is it would just be a walwart with enough power to turn them on...your apex should be able to turn them on and off (though i think you said they are motion sensor which you could bypass or just leave alone if you arent goign to use a reverse schedule
granted these are nitpicking points, with how nice this build is...i mean you are making me feel ashamed to go home and look at my setup...will be building a similar board when i get the time. but figured id try to throw in 2 cents...dont take me as any form of an expert but....FREAKING NICE BUILD to echo the rest.
urbaneks
New member
Viewpoints - 4/21 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 4/21 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 4/21 Responses to Feedback
joesig - My drain was very noisy when I first completed my install. I solved the noise issue by creating a down pipe that is half way down the sump and has slits cut in it every 1/2 inch. Now rather than all of the air escaping from the bottom of the down pipe, it escapes in small amounts through the slits on the way down the pipe. Wish I could take credit but this idea was given to me by an employee at my LFS.
Enjoy - I'm sorry to hear about Cad. I found a thread on Nano-Reef where lots of people have had issues with them. I have my new tank and the craftsmanship is beautiful. I really think based on the shape of the packaging when it arrived that the fault lands with Old Dominion. With that said, I had to keep pushing communication with Cad. Emails go unanswered, I made phone calls 2 times a week, I must say that while difficult to get a hold of Cad was committed to getting this right.
Thanks for the kind words on my build.
iwishtofish - At this point, I'm declaring it a non issue. As I mentioned, the modification I made to the down pipe silenced the noise and I'm not getting micro bubbles in the tank. If/when, it's convenient, I will rework the plumbing to keep a downward slope.
Der ABT - Outstanding insight on my build. I can see what you are referring to in the picture but the plumbing does clear without any issue. On the batteries above the sump, you could not be more on the money. Before I filled the tank the double sided tape gave out. I opened the cabinet one day to find the light in the sump (w/out water). I was thankful that this happened before water was put in. I've relocated the lights to areas of the stand that are not above the sump and I used industrial strength tape this time around.
Thanks again for the input and kind words! I appreciate everyones viewpoints on the setup.
Viewpoints - 4/21 Responses to Feedback
Viewpoints - 4/21 Responses to Feedback
joesig - My drain was very noisy when I first completed my install. I solved the noise issue by creating a down pipe that is half way down the sump and has slits cut in it every 1/2 inch. Now rather than all of the air escaping from the bottom of the down pipe, it escapes in small amounts through the slits on the way down the pipe. Wish I could take credit but this idea was given to me by an employee at my LFS.
Enjoy - I'm sorry to hear about Cad. I found a thread on Nano-Reef where lots of people have had issues with them. I have my new tank and the craftsmanship is beautiful. I really think based on the shape of the packaging when it arrived that the fault lands with Old Dominion. With that said, I had to keep pushing communication with Cad. Emails go unanswered, I made phone calls 2 times a week, I must say that while difficult to get a hold of Cad was committed to getting this right.
Thanks for the kind words on my build.
iwishtofish - At this point, I'm declaring it a non issue. As I mentioned, the modification I made to the down pipe silenced the noise and I'm not getting micro bubbles in the tank. If/when, it's convenient, I will rework the plumbing to keep a downward slope.
Der ABT - Outstanding insight on my build. I can see what you are referring to in the picture but the plumbing does clear without any issue. On the batteries above the sump, you could not be more on the money. Before I filled the tank the double sided tape gave out. I opened the cabinet one day to find the light in the sump (w/out water). I was thankful that this happened before water was put in. I've relocated the lights to areas of the stand that are not above the sump and I used industrial strength tape this time around.
Thanks again for the input and kind words! I appreciate everyones viewpoints on the setup.
urbaneks
New member
Viewpoints - Overflow Cover
Viewpoints - Overflow Cover
Viewpoints - Overflow Cover
Upon completion of the plumbing and starting my leak test I quickly realized that I was not crazy about the overflow. First the top of the durso drain is an eye soar and stands out due to the white pipe against the black overflow. In addition the noise from the overflow while minimal was still something I wanted to address. Any bit of noise from the tank that I can reduce is worth my time and effort.
I came up with several ideas to address the overflow but decided on building an acrylic cover. I set out looking for black acrylic but the smallest piece I could find was still huge and they wanted $70 for it. I had some clear acrylic on hand and contacted a co-worker who provided me with a sheet of black vinyl that I could use to cover the acrylic. Add Weld-On 4, clamps and my table saw and I had what was needed to build the cover.
Clear acrylic, Weld-On 4, clamps and vinyl made up the supply list
To build the cover, I cut two pieces of acrylic, the first and larger piece was cut to match the outside dimensions of the overflow box. This measurement includes the thickness of the glass. The purpose of the larger piece is to sit on top of the overflow and provide the framework for the cover. The second and smaller piece was cut to the inner dimensions of the overflow box. This piece was adhered to the larger piece such that it becomes an inner guide that prevents the cover from sliding around. I use the clamps to fix the smaller piece to the larger keeping the dimensions needed. Weld-On 4 was used as my adhesive for the acrylic.
Photo shows the two pieces of acrylic clamped together before gluing.
Once the acrylic was adhered the clamps were removed and I used the black vinyl to wrap the overflow cover. If you don't have a resource for vinyl, sign shops will have it and often have scraps that they will just give you.
Photo showing the completed overflow cover.
The overflow cover simply sits on top of the overflow. The inner piece of acrylic prevents the cover from sliding back and forth. Since taking the picture below, I ended up drilling two small holes in the cover which match the hole location on my durso drain. This allows more air to enter the overflow and resolved a gurgling noise that was present before the holes were drilled.
Final photo showing the overflow cover installed on the tank
Viewpoints - Overflow Cover
Viewpoints - Overflow Cover
Upon completion of the plumbing and starting my leak test I quickly realized that I was not crazy about the overflow. First the top of the durso drain is an eye soar and stands out due to the white pipe against the black overflow. In addition the noise from the overflow while minimal was still something I wanted to address. Any bit of noise from the tank that I can reduce is worth my time and effort.
The drain pipe stands out against the black overflow. The trickle from the overflow was also something I wanted to address.
I came up with several ideas to address the overflow but decided on building an acrylic cover. I set out looking for black acrylic but the smallest piece I could find was still huge and they wanted $70 for it. I had some clear acrylic on hand and contacted a co-worker who provided me with a sheet of black vinyl that I could use to cover the acrylic. Add Weld-On 4, clamps and my table saw and I had what was needed to build the cover.
Clear acrylic, Weld-On 4, clamps and vinyl made up the supply list
To build the cover, I cut two pieces of acrylic, the first and larger piece was cut to match the outside dimensions of the overflow box. This measurement includes the thickness of the glass. The purpose of the larger piece is to sit on top of the overflow and provide the framework for the cover. The second and smaller piece was cut to the inner dimensions of the overflow box. This piece was adhered to the larger piece such that it becomes an inner guide that prevents the cover from sliding around. I use the clamps to fix the smaller piece to the larger keeping the dimensions needed. Weld-On 4 was used as my adhesive for the acrylic.
Photo shows the two pieces of acrylic clamped together before gluing.
Once the acrylic was adhered the clamps were removed and I used the black vinyl to wrap the overflow cover. If you don't have a resource for vinyl, sign shops will have it and often have scraps that they will just give you.
Photo showing the completed overflow cover.
The overflow cover simply sits on top of the overflow. The inner piece of acrylic prevents the cover from sliding back and forth. Since taking the picture below, I ended up drilling two small holes in the cover which match the hole location on my durso drain. This allows more air to enter the overflow and resolved a gurgling noise that was present before the holes were drilled.
Final photo showing the overflow cover installed on the tank
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