Volcano club

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13424419#post13424419 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
That is ONE consensus, yes... the height doesn't add much benefit, or rather, any benefit that it adds is countered by more serious consequences. I think tall skimmers still have their place... it depends on how they are implemented.

Your proposal seems like it would be more invasive though..........

It would be much less invasive compared to cutting the body down and adding a new flange and cheaper compared to having a new body made. It was just a thought. If a shorter and a smaller diameter is better suited to that pump I have an idea that might work and address all you stated concerns and not require any cutting or drilling of the cylinder. I will "sketch" it up and you can tell me what you think.
 
cutting the body down wouldnt be hard at all,you could even reuse the flange ring.so cost would be minimal,just some labor to chop the body and reweld the flange ring on.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13425282#post13425282 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CMcNeil
cutting the body down wouldnt be hard at all,you could even reuse the flange ring.so cost would be minimal,just some labor to chop the body and reweld the flange ring on.


My point being that it's not something the average Joe can do and it's somewhat irreversible. Especially considering the end results are an unknown and I imagine the unhappy owners are probably not in the mood for additional experimenting that may leave them with a chopped up skimmer and more money out of pocket.

When I get back later I'll post a picture of something that may work for a minimum of cost and is totally reversible by the average Joe.
 
does anyone have a theory on why my new bubble will not make any foam when the volcano is running? I shut the volcano off yesterday a let the bk go and it started working but when I put the vol back on line today it kills it. Does the volcano work better than I thought?

JR, I posted a pic maybe 10 pages back of my needle wheel,it is custom.
 
I have the custom wheel with the clear base and carbon fiber pins. I think the volute of mine was also machined a bit larger. I feed mine with a Alita 40 full force. Does most of the crowd that is having problems have the stock wheel? Does any one else know if the volute they have was modded?Seems that there are a lot of differant combo's of those things.Are there anyone getting good results from thier Volcano's? If so, maybe we can narrow done which combos seem to work best.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13425614#post13425614 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Volcano1
I have the custom wheel with the clear base and carbon fiber pins. I think the volute of mine was also machined a bit larger. I feed mine with a Alita 40 full force. Does most of the crowd that is having problems have the stock wheel? Does any one else know if the volute they have was modded?Seems that there are a lot of differant combo's of those things.Are there anyone getting good results from thier Volcano's? If so, maybe we can narrow done which combos seem to work best.

That's a good point, if there isn't any "standard" setup it's going to be hard to figure out the problem.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13425387#post13425387 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by just dave
My point being that it's not something the average Joe can do and it's somewhat irreversible. Especially considering the end results are an unknown and I imagine the unhappy owners are probably not in the mood for additional experimenting that may leave them with a chopped up skimmer and more money out of pocket.

When I get back later I'll post a picture of something that may work for a minimum of cost and is totally reversible by the average Joe.

Actually, my idea was that the body would be swapped out... not hacked or cut, or go through the risk of having more holes drilled.

Its more of a 'ready fit' retrofit option... I get the idea that some here dont want to risk a DIY job, or have the time/tooling for it. Considering I have heard getting even a 30-36" tall cone might cost only about $500... who knows what something only half of that would be... and then there is minimal risk or DIY involved.

Why am I overlooking those who might want to DIY? Well... if that was the case... you wouldnt be here right now...:lol: You would already be in your basement hacking things up, or you would have built your own in the first place, or you would be making another skimmer right now and not care.

Dont get me wrong, Im sure there are a few of you that want to DIY something or have the ability to, but you havent spoke up yet if thats the case... :strooper: DIYing a $2000+ skimmer would make me nervous... thats for sure.

So... who wants to put a hammerhead needlewheel on theirs? I think the inlet/outlet fittings are the same.. right? The Volcano dart has a 2" union bonded to the outside of the outlet... that opens up some possibilities.

OTOH, been futzing with the Laguna 4200... its up to 160-180 scfh under its own power... with a slightly larger (okay, were talking huge compared to the dart, it would look like a Sicce... little motor, HUGE volute) volute and force fed, 6000 to almost 8000 shouldnt be that hard. That would make a swap out for the existing motor, and use that 18" body for something... just need an Alita-80 then.
 
I realize that replacing the body is the most elegant solution and that many Volcano owners may not want to do any mods but some may and if the mods work well the others may gain the confidence to follow or have someone else do it.


Would this work?

59396volcano-med.jpg


It would use all the stock holes. Raising the bubble plate would be like making the skimmer shorter. The small bubble plate with smaller diameter inner tube would be like reducing the diameter. The feed pipe would be run to the base to keep sediment stirred up and allow the Orca to pick it up ( if it was suplied from a pump a siphon break and or check would need to be used if the sump can't handle the volume in a power outage or shut down.) You could also use the base drain on the skimmer to perform water changes by draining the skimmer body and in turn removing some detritus. It would be easy to mock up using PVC pipe and inexpensive materials and if it works better material like acrylic could be used for the inner tube and plate.
 
Jon, I've been futzing with a 4200 lately as well...It's pulling 160-170 under it's own power with the STOCK VOLUTE...and at 120w with a PF of .55

Are you using 2" output on the 4200? If so, it would be a VERY simple swap :D But, like you said...you would then need a 12" neck!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13427681#post13427681 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JCTewks
Dave, doing what you drew would be the same amount of head pressure on the pump as stock.


Keep in mind it's not to scale and I wouldn't know the optimum sizes but if the outlet of the pump was discharging at a higher point does the head pressure not diminish? I know the elbows would add to it but for the sake of the discussion regardless of where the pump outlet piping enters the body if the outlet is a foot higher ( or whatever) isn't it reducing the head pressure by a foot?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13427713#post13427713 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ATB USA
JC
How big is your volute?

I'm currently testing with the stock volute...I will be fabricating several volutes from 4"-8" in daimeter to see what will work best. I am currently using a meshwheel because I don't hav access to CNC endmills to machine PW's for this pump. The custom volute will have 2" output and 2" (maybe 2 1/2" intake). I'm going to do some experimenting with the LFP venturi. My goal (maybe unrealistic) is 7000-8000lph hooked to the skimmer (the skimmer body will be a custom cone, 24" base 12" neck 48" tall), My hope is to get those air #'s in the cone with a water level of around 30".
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13427739#post13427739 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by just dave
Keep in mind it's not to scale and I wouldn't know the optimum sizes but if the outlet of the pump was discharging at a higher point does the head pressure not diminish? I know the elbows would add to it but for the sake of the discussion regardless of where the pump outlet piping enters the body if the outlet is a foot higher ( or whatever) isn't it reducing the head pressure by a foot?

THe head pressure is determined by where the PUMP is at. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13427662#post13427662 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by just dave
I realize that replacing the body is the most elegant solution and that many Volcano owners may not want to do any mods but some may and if the mods work well the others may gain the confidence to follow or have someone else do it.


Would this work?

59396volcano-med.jpg


It would use all the stock holes. Raising the bubble plate would be like making the skimmer shorter. The small bubble plate with smaller diameter inner tube would be like reducing the diameter. The feed pipe would be run to the base to keep sediment stirred up and allow the Orca to pick it up ( if it was suplied from a pump a siphon break and or check would need to be used if the sump can't handle the volume in a power outage or shut down.) You could also use the base drain on the skimmer to perform water changes by draining the skimmer body and in turn removing some detritus. It would be easy to mock up using PVC pipe and inexpensive materials and if it works better material like acrylic could be used for the inner tube and plate.




:thumbsup: Exactly what i said before a long narrow column like the Ati or the BK style will let this pump perform better instead of cutting the skimmer
 
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