Vortech controller DIY

stirthepot.gif
 
That's creative alright.

Btw, I saw your SCWD mod thread last night, and that was very interesting.

My question is about these two black things (upper left near the POT) that appear and vanish in various pictures. Where are they going?

Now you see them:
13.jpg


Now you don't:
12.jpg


Now you see them:
11.jpg


Now you don't:
19.jpg


Are you photoshopping them out of the images for some reason?
 
LOL No photo shop. I needed more photos after I got the first one done so I took photos of my none DIY driver. The first photo you refer to is an early version of the board put out by Echotech Marine and has some non-surface mount transistors. The second photo is of rev 2.2 board and Echotech Marine had gone to surface mount transistors to replace the them. If you look closely you can see the first one has rev 2.1 and the second one has rev 2.2 in a different spot.

It is not uncommon for small modification to be added to electronic in an early production run and then have them incorporated in later productions.

P.S. I had to send one of my drivers in after having the code get corrupted. The one they sent me back was this later version.
 
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melev

BTW, How did you run across that SCWD mod thread? I thought it was long dead. I almost took the photos to it down the other day.
 
It looks like they swapped out the big TO-92 parts for SOT-23 parts on the Rev 2 board. Look for 'Q4' upside down just below the pot on the last picture, next to R20 and R33. You can also see Q3 upside down just below R19 (above the molex connector). You can read Q5 to the left of the pot but the brown and white wire is covering up the teeny tiny SOT-23 package.

Those Rev 1's with the TO-92's look kinda ghetto. Rev 2 boards look nice.
 
I worked in management for an electronics control firm once and sometimes getto is what comes under the hood early on. As long as it work and no one sees it, who cares.

I am just disappointed I did not think of this a year ago. I had looked at this thing several time and was making it way to hard. Next I will work on varying the voltage electronically so maybe in the near future we can use an aquacontroller like Neptune does with tunzes and the new aquasurf.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10729080#post10729080 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stugray
If I understand the Vortech's properly, they are a DC motor.

To build a conlroller for those, I would use a dual 555 timer IC to make a Pulse Width Modulator drive circuit that drives a power MOSFET.

To contol the pulse width of the 555 timer IC, I would use a digitally controlled Potentiometer ( I used to use the XICOR EEPOT but not sure if they still make them ).

The PWM would control the DC current to the motor. To change the speed, you would just set one pin of the EEPOT high or low to set it to faster/slower, then pulse the second pin. This increases or decreases the resistance of the potentiometer and thus varies the speed of the PWM.

Instructions for how to make a PWM are in the 555 timer IC instruction manual at Radio Shack. All the parts for this ( except the EEPOT ) can be had at RS.

With another 555 timer IC and a couple of extra components, you could even make the timer IC walk the EEPOT up & down at an adjustable rate. This would make the controller self varying without the use of a separate controller.

Stu


I was about to do this a while back till I saw that there were 5 wire going to the motor. Hard to say which is the PWM voltage supply.
 
Actually there are 10 wires going up to the motor.

The problem with manipulating speed with that method is that the processor is counting revs of the motor. If it does not see the revs it wants then it will set an alarm state and the pump will stop.

This way is much simpler and work with the processor.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10731728#post10731728 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Giovanni
Actually there are 10 wires going up to the motor.

The problem with manipulating speed with that method is that the processor is counting revs of the motor. If it does not see the revs it wants then it will set an alarm state and the pump will stop.

This way is much simpler and work with the processor.

Unfortunately your method won't work for my little tank. The lowest speed is already borderline too much for my tank.

Most PWM controllers have an amp overload, so I'm not worried about giving up the tach.

Isn't it a shame we have to DIY this?
 
I don't know about that. Seems I would have given up if we had another solution. This is much less expensive and more suited for my needs. I like being able to control them with the ACIII. I can have a night mode where both pumps are on low and just pulse on them on high every thirty minutes or so. I can even stop the pump on an occasional basis for feeding with little chance of corrupting the code. Just put the main power to a controlled port also.

:D
 
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Giovanni

"The problem with manipulating speed ".

Since you are hooking into the potentiometer anyway, how about using the second half of my idea to control the EEPOT?

http://www.intersil.com/products/pt/parametric_table_15126.asp

"With another 555 timer IC and a couple of extra components, you could even make the timer IC walk the EEPOT up & down at an adjustable rate. This would make the controller self varying without the use of a separate controller."

I you replaced the manual POT with the EEPOT, you could control it easily.

Stu
 
Stu,

That is a good idea, especially for those who do not want to use a separate controller. I don't see why your idea would not work. Looks very good. The only problem I see is it would be a little complicated for the average reefer.

With this first step of the DIY keep in mind that my goal was to make it work with the ACIII or with what ever controller one might have. I wanted it to be quick, easy, reliable, reversible and inexpensive.

The EEPOT may also be a good choice when trying to integrate the vortech controller in the same way the Neptune Aquasurf works.

Have a look at the new Aquasurf for the Tunzes. It is made by Neptune. It is way more sophisticated in its ability to just walk the pump speed up and down. That for the vortech will be the ultimate prize IMHO.


Aquasurf
 
I have found one flaw. I used a normally open relay and I should have use a normally closed relay. With the normally open relay it defaults to high if the power goes out and you run on battery backup. Changing this to normally closed will make it default to low speed on power loss.


BTW: I have modded both my pumps now and both are running great.
 
I was reading a different thread yesterday, and in that thread, there were a number of links going to SCWD modifications. I must have read 5 or more threads, including those by you and hahnmeister. You guys made some hardcore changes.

Coincidentally, I was just contacted recently by 3iQ about trying out the 1" SCWD. I replied but haven't heard anything since. So a real live 1" model exists at last? :eek: Hard to believe after all this time.

Since I'm planning on getting three new controllers for my VorTechs, I don't see why I would make these modifications. While the suggestion was made by someone in that long thread about keeping at least one as a back up in case of some type of failure, I was planning on just using the new ones and get my rebate on the older ones as proffered by EcoTech/AO.
 
Melev,

This thread is not really about the new drivers from Echotech so I really want to try to limit the discussion here when it comes to that.
I have two of the new wireless drivers on order also. Thing is, we really do not have any details on the new Echotech driver so who knows how flexible it will be or when we will get them. After I playing with this DIY a few days I may seriously thinking of canceling my order.

I want to be able to control all my tanks devices with one controller. I will not to reach in the stand to hit the feed mode of the vortech driver as well as the ACIII in my sump room. With my ACIII as the controller, I can even have a night mode, I can have an automatic fish feeder feed and have the ACIII shut the pumps down while the feeder feeds. The programming capabilities are endless with the ACIII, especially if Curt makes an aquasurf for the Vortech. In the mean time I am hoping to find a way to make the aquasurf work with the vortech as is. That will be a whole different thread though. LOL

Again, lets try to stay on topic of this DIY and save the discussion of the vortech wireless driver for there forum.
 
No problem. I wasn't trying to take this thread off track, and thought I was answering a question about my possibly trying this out. Thanks for showing it to me. I never even thought to look inside it.

I do have a box full of those 555 timers, but the problem I have with them is that when you set the duration (1 to 60 seconds, or 1 to 60 minutes), once you cut power to it, it won't restart until the timer reaches the preset point. So if I have it designed to be off for 15 minutes, and if there is a momentary power outage due to weather, etc, the item plugged in would be off for 15 minutes. I would prefer it only set the timer when I press the button, not any time power drops for no good reason.
 
Interesting stuff. Giovanni, do you know if the Aquasurf as is would work with this? The Neptune blurb says "any of the stream pumps which work with the Tunze controller" but I'm not sure what that means, exactly. What kinds of changes would the Aquasurf need to be Vortech-compatible, assuming its not already.

jds
 
melev,

I realy did not mean that for just you. You know how thing tend to go off on a tangent. Heck I am the cause of a lot of them. I am trying to mend my ways. No harm intended.

As for the 555 timer circute. I am going to focus on more sofisticated means of control.


bureau13,

I am a ham radio operator and that kind of dirver my interest in tinkering with electronics. I am going to look at the tunzes protocal and voltages in the next couple weeks. I really do enjoy playing around with this kind of stuff from time to time. I need a tunzes controller and pump to play with. Hint Hint. LOL
 
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