Water changes from a sump
- Thread starter Cdentata
- Start date
Do you mean removing water from the sump and then replacing the newly mixed water to the sump? If so, there should be no issues with that, other than figuring out how to remove the water since you won't be able to create a siphon to drain it. I suppose a powerhead attached to some vinyl tubing to pump the water into a bucket or drain would work.
wvned
Well-known member
This depends on a few things on how it will work.
If the system is clear full you can pump water out of the return section until the return pump sucks air. This may not be 10%.
If you pump water out of the general area of the sump the DT will drain down to replace it and the return pump will empty the return section if left on.
If you disable your return pump the system will drain down to overfill the sump and you can pump the water out to get your 10%. Add the new water to the sump until it is a running height and then turn the return on and keep adding until the DT and sump are at normal levels
Daily 1-2% water changes. These can be set up easily in a Hydros controller. You have 3 pumps. I in a NSW vat, 1 in a RODI Vat for ATO and I in the sump to pump water to a drain. Goes off on a schedule and tells you if you need to make more NSW or RODI to fill the vats. Darn handy. I did this for a while but you need to have a drain to pump it to and it's best if it is near your RODI filter.
I changed 7 gallons a day.
The simplest and cheapest pumps for this stuff are Maxijets. A 1/2 in push to connect will attach to the output of a Maxijet and you just stick some 1/2 in polyethelene tubing to it and route it where you want the water to go.
To calculate what you are doing get a 5 gallon bucket with level markings at Home depot. Or make one by pouring a gallon at a time in a bucket and mark it with a sharpie.
I see people doing water changes with expensive peristaltic pumps. I think that is silly. Trigger your ATO so the system is full. Disable ATO. Take water out. Add NSW back until it is full again. Turn ATO back on.
If you take enough out your return pump goes dry to need to shut it off so it isn't damaged.
If the system is clear full you can pump water out of the return section until the return pump sucks air. This may not be 10%.
If you pump water out of the general area of the sump the DT will drain down to replace it and the return pump will empty the return section if left on.
If you disable your return pump the system will drain down to overfill the sump and you can pump the water out to get your 10%. Add the new water to the sump until it is a running height and then turn the return on and keep adding until the DT and sump are at normal levels
Daily 1-2% water changes. These can be set up easily in a Hydros controller. You have 3 pumps. I in a NSW vat, 1 in a RODI Vat for ATO and I in the sump to pump water to a drain. Goes off on a schedule and tells you if you need to make more NSW or RODI to fill the vats. Darn handy. I did this for a while but you need to have a drain to pump it to and it's best if it is near your RODI filter.
I changed 7 gallons a day.
The simplest and cheapest pumps for this stuff are Maxijets. A 1/2 in push to connect will attach to the output of a Maxijet and you just stick some 1/2 in polyethelene tubing to it and route it where you want the water to go.
To calculate what you are doing get a 5 gallon bucket with level markings at Home depot. Or make one by pouring a gallon at a time in a bucket and mark it with a sharpie.
I see people doing water changes with expensive peristaltic pumps. I think that is silly. Trigger your ATO so the system is full. Disable ATO. Take water out. Add NSW back until it is full again. Turn ATO back on.
If you take enough out your return pump goes dry to need to shut it off so it isn't damaged.
Thank you! Yes, that’s the plan. I have a drain line going down to my basement; so, all I need is a pump with enough head pressure to lift the water up and over the tank and then it should flow down by siphon action. I have a Tunze ATO in the basement that works very well to bring water up. I have been carrying the new water up from the basement and I am getting too old for that.
I would add I appreciate the interactions here helping me to find economical ways to make improvements. As I am relatively new to the hobby, I have in some cases spent more money than necessary to achieve my goal. So, a big thank you!
I would add I appreciate the interactions here helping me to find economical ways to make improvements. As I am relatively new to the hobby, I have in some cases spent more money than necessary to achieve my goal. So, a big thank you!
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
If you make 1 of these you have a siphon that will stop flowing when you want it to.
The only drawback is you have to start it every time you use it.
BUT - you never pull out too much water, & that's priceless.
The short side is inside the tank made to the length you need ( where water stops siphoning).
This is 1" but you can make it to your specs.
The only drawback is you have to start it every time you use it.
BUT - you never pull out too much water, & that's priceless.
The short side is inside the tank made to the length you need ( where water stops siphoning).
This is 1" but you can make it to your specs.
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