Water chemistry issue

[Raceimage]

A few days ago I notice my colt coral wasn't expanding. I thought the frogspawn may be be stinging it so I moved the colt to my qt tank. 2 days ago, I noticed the frogspawn and torch corals each had 1 head that wouldn't open up. I did a 30 gal water change (Total system volume is around 140gal) and tested the water. SG was 1.024, KH was 19, Calcium 360ppm, and PO4 and NO3 were 0. I supplement the calcium with Bionic so last night I added just the calcium portion to lower the KH. When I tested this morning dKH was at 14.

I'm having my water tested at Seahorse today to verify my results. My tank has only been set up since this summer and I've had no problems with water chemistry so far. My other corals, inverts, and fish seem fine. What parameters do you maintain in your reefs?

My tank is located in my basement which I am currently in the process of finishing. Mudding drywall phase now. I turn off the skimmer when the drywall compound is drying and plan to do the same when I paint this spring. Any other precautions I should consider to eliminate contamination and could this be a source of my coral problem?

 

[cloakerpoked]

If that kH number is accurate, it is entirely too high, and is your problem. I'm surprised you aren't having more serious issues.

 

[raynist]

And dropping it so fast isn't good either.

I test my alk at least once a week. It is the easiest test to do.

 

[Raceimage]

How would you go about dropping it slowly? Since my calcium is low, can I continue to just add b-ionic part 2 (calcium) to raise my calcium while decreasing the dKH? Seahorse said that all of my water parameters were fine. They checked the PH not KH though. I'm new to reef keeping so I don't trust my results when they seem out of whack; but, I've taken a water sample to 3 different pet shops and got 3 different results in the past. My test kit is the drop type not dip strips.

 

[cloakerpoked]

for dKh, you really want a titration kit (one where you add drops to a pink solution until it turns blue). I use salifert, but I know that seachem and some others also make them. Your pH wouldn't necessarily be bad with a kH value that you stated. As for what to use to bring it down, it should lower itself slowly depending on what the draw is on your tank. Based on the kit you are describing, I'm starting to wonder what your values actually are. I wouldn't add anything to the tank until you have a better idea of what those values truly are.

 

[Raceimage]

I have the API Reef Master liquid test kit.

 

[raynist]

I use the API test kit a few times a week. It is a very fast kit. I use salifert about once a month for a more precise test, but the API and salifert are always very close. The salifert just let's you see 8.4 vs 8. Just make sure you shake the test bottle very well before testing.

 

[NaClH2Opgh]

I use the API test kit a few times a week. It is a very fast kit. I use salifert about once a month for a more precise test, but the API and salifert are always very close. The salifert just let's you see 8.4 vs 8. Just make sure you shake the test bottle very well before testing.

+1
I also use the API kit. I use most of the API kits and have compared results against the other expensive tests kits and also taking it to a lfs and they are always the same.

 

[cloakerpoked]

The possibility always exists for the kit itself to be bad...as sometimes a bad batch goes through and isn't caught by the manufacturer. It's unlikely, but possible that this is a possibility also. I'd try to cross check your results with a different kit. If you want to bring me a water sample, I'd be happy to check it for you as well. I live just off 28 in Indianola (Harmar exit) so it might not be terribly far for you from Sarver.

As far as draw, what kind of tank do you have set up? Is it mostly SPS and LPS or barely any calcium drawing critters? That will also make a huge difference as to how quickly your dKh will lower on its own. Still, you should never change your dKh by more than 1.5 in any given day...swings of more than that can be hazardous and create undo stress on your animals.

 

[CleveYank]

If test kit is not the issue?

For adjusting an ALK that is thru the roof. Adding Calcium Chloride (pedowflake or dowflake and since it's plowing season it's easy to find) to your system will pull down the ALK. Water changes help, but since some salts have alk levels in the 12 to 13 range pulling down a 19 can take time that way.

This online calculator will help with products and how much Ca Cl is needed to get to the desired Alk level.
http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chemcalc.html

Despite the rumored high boron levels in the "newer" version of pedowflake, I've been using it as the Ca part of my 2 part additive without issue. Some of my SPS being ORA's and delicate LE's have not skipped a beat. And at $17.50 for a 50 pound bag I'm still using last year's bag.

Side issue or another possibility. I had a powerhead that was "leaking" voltage and the titanium welding rod that was coverted to grounding probe got unplugged from ground and my corals were staying closed. Put ground back on while awaiting new pump and the corals were fine.