Water level issue

Gimplar

New member
Ok well i think the pump that Don gave me is a little too strong. Seems like the overflow cant handle it, im using a Rio 1700 on my 30 gal. Its going up vertically 3 feet or so and through a SQWD. Everything seems like its ok, but the water level in the main tank looks like its about to push over and spill if any more water were to be put into it. If anyone has a lower GPH ill trade or borrow to see if it'll work better. the rio is rated 642 GPH i believe
 
most overflows are rated for 700 gallons
my 29 had a rio 2500 hundred though.
you can buy a ball valve and reduce it.
or a eheim pump and be done with it i would use like a 1050 and they are beautiful pumps. i know 70 bucks shipped may be out of your league on this one
 
im sorry i meant to say 600gph overflow not 700 gph so that may be why its doing what its doing the pump i suggested is a 350 gph pump.
 
Right, hrrm. Looks like this is another question ill have to bug John about, :lol: thanks for the info though, i knew my calculations said to get a 300-400 GPH pump, but i thought i'd give it a shot sinc ethe pump was free.
 
600 gallons on a 30 gallon is kinda high in my opinion
i wouldnt even hesitate to do like 150 -200 gph

let the power heads circulate inside the display.

i know this is a debatable issue on here

but i read a thread where some people are only using 2x the turnover rate.

this also helps the protien skimmer out. in fact the experiment showed that slowing down the return pump made his skimmer work even better.

the thread talked about how the proteins rise to the top. and if your skimmer is only rated for aroun 150 gph (thats what my 6-3 does on my 90 )
so if your over powering your skimmer with too much water then your not even skimming everything .
it cost less as well as being quieter.

*** lets see what can of worms this opens up** :) just kidding
 
I have the same problem - which isn't a problem really because you should have a ball valve between the pump and the tank. That's a real easy fix and at the same time if you haven't I'd put in a union so you can remove the pump real easily. If you ever have a problem you should have ball valves on the intake and return - turn all water flow from the tank off in an emergency and great for fine tuning your systems flow. Please this is just MO, this is how I did my plumbing and it's working great - so far.
 
Oh I forgot, I heard that you should always over power your return pump. If you ever have to change something like add more elbows, or equipment you're not having to purchase a new pump each time. Ball valves are great.
 
the thing about ball valves is if i restrict the flow, essentially it puts more strain on the pump right? wouldnt this affect the pump and could possibly cause damage?
 
Not really most are now built to withstand the restricted flow - as I understand it. If you get a very cheap pump it might not hold up but I've had a number of pumps that have ran for years under pressure - no problem. Does it take weeks or months off a pump- who knows and really with the added security and control for me it's with it. This has just been my experience and others may of had problems. I've actually have never plumbed a tank without using ball values or similar for control. Hope this helps some.
 
Do this and you will be much happier. Get a Tee fitting for your pump or hose. Install the Tee sideways so the water returning to the tank has a straight shot through the Tee. Attach a ball valve to the remaining leg, Add a length of hose to the valve and route the hose down to the bottom of your sump. Now with the valve wide open, turn the return pump back on. Close the valve a small amount at a time until the tanks overflow is moving the proper amount of water ( this is usually when the tank water level is at the middle of the overflows slots). The bypass hose in your sump can be directed to wash over the bottom of the sump and keep Detritus from settling. This will accomplish 3 things, A) Your pump will now be happier and running cooler because it is not being restricted. B) Your sump will stay cleaner and help to reduce unwanted nitrates from forming because of junk that piles up on the bottom of the sump. C) Your overflow will be able to do it's job efficiently.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8259407#post8259407 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tampa Aquarium Service
Do this and you will be much happier. Get a Tee fitting for your pump or hose. Install the Tee sideways so the water returning to the tank has a straight shot through the Tee. Attach a ball valve to the remaining leg, Add a length of hose to the valve and route the hose down to the bottom of your sump. Now with the valve wide open, turn the return pump back on. Close the valve a small amount at a time until the tanks overflow is moving the proper amount of water ( this is usually when the tank water level is at the middle of the overflows slots). The bypass hose in your sump can be directed to wash over the bottom of the sump and keep Detritus from settling. This will accomplish 3 things, A) Your pump will now be happier and running cooler because it is not being restricted. B) Your sump will stay cleaner and help to reduce unwanted nitrates from forming because of junk that piles up on the bottom of the sump. C) Your overflow will be able to do it's job efficiently.
that a neat idea
i just bought a 1262 eheim
i think i will try this idea.
 
Another issue im having is that my skimmer seems to be having problems with the high water level. I bought the skimmer when i got hte whole setup (they were all hooked up together). But as far as the water level, im just curious in to why the skimmer isnt working now. The waterlevel inside the skimmer is way to high and on the lowest adjustment its still foaming heavily(wet foam) into the cup
 
I'm not a skimmer expert but my experience has been that mine is very water level sensitive. I have a Coralife 125g and it works great but it is touchy. High water level and it doesn't work hardly at all and that is where my valves have worked wonders.
 
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