Water prep proceedures/setups/systems: how do you do it?

Dtip

New member
I was just curious what sorts of things people here do logistically to prepare their water, both for topoff and salt mix purposes. I'm reworking my prep setup, and I wanted to get a sense of what people have liked or disliked, or recommend: a sort of set of best practices and time-saving tips. I'm most interested in the basic process you go through to create fresh and saltwater.

Some of the basic issues/differences are: do you keep your fresh water for topoff in a separate container from where you mix your saltwater, or do you just make fresh water into one container and then mix in buckets (only feasible for small systems, but this is what I do since my system is small and I'm not yet allowed to drill through the floor/walls :) )? If you use two containers, do you plumb them together to make it easier to fill both, or just fill them separately?

Do you have your water containers on a table and gravity drain/siphon into buckets, or do you have them on the floor and actively pump water out? (I've been doing the former, but I want to upgrade to two bigger containers for fresh/salt, and I'm not sure the table I have will hold em). If you have all this going on in your laundry room (as I do), do you have any special precautions for keeping things like detergent dust away from your water equipment? How obsessive are you with trying to avoid any sort of contamination of plumbing or water from things like equipment touching the floor, other non-fish friendly things in the basement (like my basement sink, which has had all sorts of nasty toxic stuff in it over the years)

If you make purified water with an RO, RO/DI, or DI filter, how long do you aerate it for and how (airstones, powerhead, etc.)? What ph does it come out of the filter and what do you do (if anything) to buffer it for either a) topoff or b) prior to mixing saltwater? How long do you keep the mixed saltwater around for before use (I usually do about 24 hrs.)? If you use an RO, RO/DI, do you heat the water going into the RO/DI to improve it's efficiency?

As I upgrade my process/equipment, I'm most concerned about things like always getting my topoff correct so that I don't drain my alkalinity. The water I make generally has a low ph to start with, and I have to work from there.

I know that some people buffer topoff water with baking soda, but others treat alk problems in tank with two parts, and others drip kalk into the topoff water.

I'm sure someone has asked these things before, but the search function won't work for me, and I figured it would be interesting to see the diversity of strategies that people use to make this process streamlined and/or best for the health of your tanks.
 
I have seen more sophisticated setups where people have large plastic barrels that their RO/DI water goes into and they have float valves to automatically shut-off the water when it reaches a certain level and that is for their top-off water and water changes.
I have an RO/DI system in my basement that is hooked up to a faucet and empties into 5 Gallon Jugs that are sealed. I then use a 32 gallon trash can that I fill with the RO/DI water and mix with salt. I generally let the water mix with 2 power heads for 2 days (one has an air inlet hose to mix in air). I use a heater and set the heater to the tank water temp. and adjust the salinity accordingly. The one thing that I will probably get in the future is one large-strong container with a lid that the RO/DI water will drain into instead of the 5 Gallon jugs - just to avoid having to change the 5 gallon jugs frequently every time they fill. I hope this helps.
- Jeff
 
I have 2 separate reservoirs, one for top off and one for salt mix. At any given time, I have ~30g of fresh salt ready to go. Both containers are fed by a single RO/DI unit with float shut off valves. The salt mix is raised up so I simply open the valve and it empties into the sump for PWCs. The RO/DI is actively pumped in to the sump 2 ways. I have a dosing pump that feeds a kalk reactor. I have a backup float switch that kicks in if the dosing pump isn't keeping pace with evaporation.

I suggest if you are having low pH issues with your source water, you may want to run a kalk reactor. You can go fancy and buy a manufactured unit or you can DIY one as they are pretty simple.
 
I have an rodi unit with two storage tanks...a 70 gallon one for just rodi(top off) and and a 50 gallon for salt.
 
Haven't had any issues in tank yet (not much stocked yet), but I have been thinking about buffering my RO/DI topoff better so I don't end up chewing through my alk over time. Kalk is probably a bit much for me at this point, what with no corals in the tank yet to worry about eating up my base-level calcium. But a DIY is definately on my horizon (seems a lot cheaper than doing all 2 parts), if I can figure out how to fit in the small space I have left.

I'm also trying to go from a single 50 gal container to hold water to two smaller ones for easier mixing/heating (when I do a large change, it means several different salt mixes in several buckets, or salting in my main freshwater container), though I only have one float valve to work with atm.

Must be nice to be able to pump stuff directly into the tank (and unavoidable when you have larger tanks). I need a new house. :)

I'm set up right next to the washing machine so I can drain the waste water in there: I get about two loads of laundry done on the waste water for every 20 gallons of pure water produced. I also heat the water incoming to the RO/DI in a bucket full of hot water and coils of tubing to get a better pure to waste ratio.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11925924#post11925924 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by anaelitz
I have an rodi unit with two storage tanks...a 70 gallon one for just rodi(top off) and and a 50 gallon for salt.

I'm assuming you pump either of those into the tank rather than carrying endless buckets for a PWC or evap. Do you pump up from the basement or do you have a dedicated fish room nearby to make water in on the same level? 70 gallons is like almost 600 pounds, so I'm assuming your containers are on the floor and you pump water out of them: if so do you have separate pumps for each one?

And do you buffer your top off directly, or not worry about it and control ph all directly in the aquarium?
 
I have a 55 gal poly tank fed by the rodi used for auto/kalk top off, and in case off a emergency I can pull from it to make up salt water. I also have a rubbermaid 44 gal brute can on wheels with salt water ready to go stired and heated . I find it works out better to make it up ahead of time. There was a article several years ago why to make it in advance rather than waiting till the last minute.
 
Yeah, I always went by what A. Calfo said: the pure water has lots of co2 dissolved in it, so it needs to be aerated for 12-24 hrs to raise its ph and drive off the co2. And then most salt water mixes work best if the mix "cures" for around 24hrs. Seems to have worked well for me so far and matched what other people have said.

It does takes some extra planning a head of time though, which is part of why I'm hoping to set things up to make that easier and more like clockwork. Right now I can only mix saltwater in my 5gal buckets, and so to do a 15 gal PWC, I would either need three heaters and three powerheads/aerators if I wanted the water to sit for any length of time, or mix the SW in my huge freshwater receptacle. Neither method is ideal.

I've held off on using an auto-topoff because I like to check everything personally several times a day in any case. But it would help keep the chemistry a lot more even going forward. The real problem is finding a place to stick such a project: my stand is already pretty much chock full of sump and a RDSB bucket, with little room for a significant ato reservoir, let alone a big kalk setup.
 
Anyone here have any idea where to find a local retailer that would carry the 20gal Brute containers? With one 32 gal already, this would be the perfect size for me, but all the normal stores I've checked so far only carry the 32 gal and 44 gal models. No 20gals: only ever can find them online, and the shipping costs almost as much as the can itself.
 
I have a very complicated setup. I hook up a hose to my bathroom sink (for my 125) and I put the other end in my closest standpipe coming out of the overflow to my sump. Both faucets on full, fill to the line in the sump, all done. In my farm tank I use the tricky "5 gallon bucket" method to get tap water from the wash tub to the sump.

I've been doing this for years, and I have no trouble growing pretty much any coral I want. Posting this not to knock more involved methods of water prep, but to illustrate that everyone's water is different, and what you do very much depends on what is coming out of your faucets. Mine happens to be great water, so I don't bother mucking with it.

I'd encourage you to test your water to find out what you really need to remove, and then filter for that. I don't buy into the "buy every filter and use them" theory.

Good luck with your setup.

S !
 
Your water isn't chlorinated? That would make things a lot easier.

For me, the most complicated issue is just the schedule of aerating water and mixing it up to the right salinity, aertating/curing all ahead of time. Topoff is, of course, a lot easier.
 
Sure it is. But not enough to matter. I dump it in my first sump chamber up to 3 gallons at a time, which goes right into my chaeto ball crawling with life where I've raised several batches of baby bangaiis by accident. <shrug> If it aint broke why pay to fix it.

S !
 
NSW and Makeup water setup

NSW and Makeup water setup

My setup.

TWO 4 stage (sediment, smaller carbon, then even smaller carbon again and then into membranes) RO units that merge into ONE dual DI resin unit that dumps into 55 gallon rubbermaid garbage can.

This can has a small powerhead with a kent venturi pumping air into it with a heater that keeps it around 1/2 to 1 degree higher than tank water.

A pump in the 55 rubbermaid feeds 2 makeup water reservoirs.
1 gravity feeds with Kent float to a fish with softies tank.
And the other feeds a reservoir that feeds 3 tanks that are run on 2 sumps. These have electric level topoff switches that have the redundant overfill kill switches. This reservoir also has a powerhead run off intermittent line off of wavemaker that mixes kalk powder that is dosed into it daily for kalkwasser addition.

Currently new water is pumped out of the 55 mentioned above into 32 gallon rubbermaid can for the making of new salt mix for water changes. Another 55 or something therein will be setup for keeping pre-mix NSW on hand shortly.
 
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Wow, awesome thread Dtip! Looks like you've done your homework too.
Thanks everyone for the great idea's & info.:thumbsup:
 
Re: NSW and Makeup water setup

Re: NSW and Makeup water setup

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12025881#post12025881 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CleveYank

This can has a small powerhead with a kent venturi pumping air into it with a heater that keeps it around 1/2 to 1 degree higher than tank water.

This is a good tip: I learned this the hard way (not that anything bad happened) when I first started doing water changes: the temp is, of course, only going to drop as water is moved on its way to the tank (though for people with full pump systems right into the tank instead of buckets, I guess it doesn't matter as much), so a little wiggle room on heat is always a good idea if standing water is going to be away from a heater for any length of time.
 
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