Waterproof floor in fish room

It's fairly easy but very time consuming,that's why contractors charge so much to do it. Just get the spacers you want and the color grout. I used 1/4" spacers and black grout. You'll need a tile saw as well.

thanks do you know the name of this product

My room is like only 5x8 the most.. but might have to go up the walls to make it water tight.

nice layout
 
its in my unfinished basement

concrete then mud under that no craw space

i'm not sure if they are slopped or not. have to check that out.. but they look flat to me as it will be going in a corner of the basement

If they are slopped to a area. most basement floors should slope to a floor drain EVEN if the drain is on the other side of the basement you can use that..
Either put in a Gray water sump in the lowest point and pump any water out or bust the concrete and install a floor drain to the existing basement sump or drain depending on your existing water management down there..

Her is a example
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/little-giant-tsw-a22-clogresistant-view.jpg

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If the floor is not slopped at all to where you can put in the above and the basement is unfinished how much water are you actually going to be getting on the floor down there that you need to do anything.. Maybe this should be the first consideration .We put our sump room to where the floor with run right into the floor drain and into a sump similar to above and we have a marine grade sump pump.


As far as the floor if its concrete and you do not care what it looks like just clean it up and seal it... any walls you build or existing walls seal them tight and be sure water does not set under them.. If your going to finish the room use Duro-rock around the 12 inches that touch the floor and calk it with a urathane base product NOT Latex or silicon they do not hold up as well .


Without seeing the basement and plumbing situation this is the best Professional Opinion your going to be able to get.
 
My floor has the slightest,undetectable slope to it going towards the drain but I also have a squeegee to push any excess water I may spill towards the drain to help dry the floor faster. It's waterproof but the wife doesnt like wet footprints on the floor. lolz
 
If they are slopped to a area. most basement floors should slope to a floor drain EVEN if the drain is on the other side of the basement you can use that..
Either put in a Gray water sump in the lowest point and pump any water out or bust the concrete and install a floor drain to the existing basement sump or drain depending on your existing water management down there..

Her is a example
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/little-giant-tsw-a22-clogresistant-view.jpg

------------------------------
If the floor is not slopped at all to where you can put in the above and the basement is unfinished how much water are you actually going to be getting on the floor down there that you need to do anything.. Maybe this should be the first consideration .We put our sump room to where the floor with run right into the floor drain and into a sump similar to above and we have a marine grade sump pump.


As far as the floor if its concrete and you do not care what it looks like just clean it up and seal it... any walls you build or existing walls seal them tight and be sure water does not set under them.. If your going to finish the room use Duro-rock around the 12 inches that touch the floor and calk it with a urathane base product NOT Latex or silicon they do not hold up as well .


Without seeing the basement and plumbing situation this is the best Professional Opinion your going to be able to get.
8723710b3ced5ff783c3cbda34dc0256.jpg


here is where my new fish room and tank will go

there is really no noticeable grade.. you might get like a fraction sloping from the wall to the inside of the room.. the bubble is like just on the line.. not much..

So as you will see from the pic,

1 the tape to the RIGHT is where the tank will go
it will be in in wall tank.
2. where the slippers are this is where my door will go. I'm planing on putting lip like a shower stall do the water will stay in the room



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My floor has the slightest,undetectable slope to it going towards the drain but I also have a squeegee to push any excess water I may spill towards the drain to help dry the floor faster. It's waterproof but the wife doesnt like wet footprints on the floor. lolz

i just checked mine as well and it undetectable as well for the slope.


My plane was to put on tile then have a plastic tile on it ? but not sure if this is over kill or not..

Also do you think I can put my tank stand on top of the tiles or will that crack them ? tank will be 250g plus the sump under it.
 
Here's a link to a company that makes and installs the resinous flooring. It's not something that your gonna be able to do yourself and honestly there's a bit to installing it so that it comes out right. This type of floor would be a once and done type of product. It's about as tough of a floor covering as your gonna find.

https://www.stonhard.com/products/stonres/#

If you go the tile route, you might want to look into installing a waterproof membrane and bring it up the walls behind the base to keep the water from going under the walls. Here's a link to the Laticrete product. There's others out there as well like Mapei.

https://laticrete.com/our-products/...nce/waterproofing/9235-waterproofing-membrane
 
i just checked mine as well and it undetectable as well for the slope.


My plane was to put on tile then have a plastic tile on it ? but not sure if this is over kill or not..

Also do you think I can put my tank stand on top of the tiles or will that crack them ? tank will be 250g plus the sump under it.


The tile will be fine. My tank is a 225.
 
Here's a link to a company that makes and installs the resinous flooring. It's not something that your gonna be able to do yourself and honestly there's a bit to installing it so that it comes out right. This type of floor would be a once and done type of product. It's about as tough of a floor covering as your gonna find.

https://www.stonhard.com/products/stonres/#

If you go the tile route, you might want to look into installing a waterproof membrane and bring it up the walls behind the base to keep the water from going under the walls. Here's a link to the Laticrete product. There's others out there as well like Mapei.

https://laticrete.com/our-products/...nce/waterproofing/9235-waterproofing-membrane


That stuff is VERY PRICEY... almost as much as welded vinyl and its not as strong as you think it is... Its basically the same stuff they are using in Auto Garage dealerships on the floor and air plane hangers with added design ..
I Have worked with a local company who does similar ....
WAY OVER KILL..

LATICRETE Is one of the worse brands on the market in my book.

Even Lowes has stopped carrying there products..
 
Also once you put the ceramic tile down the floor will be waterproof so you wont need to put anything on top of it.
 
You could always keep it simple and just paint the slab with some garage floor paint. It's tintable, so you can get almost any color you want. I added some grit to mine so that it isn't slick, even when it is wet.

- Ivan
 
That stuff is VERY PRICEY... almost as much as welded vinyl and its not as strong as you think it is... Its basically the same stuff they are using in Auto Garage dealerships on the floor and air plane hangers with added design ..
I Have worked with a local company who does similar ....
WAY OVER KILL..

LATICRETE Is one of the worse brands on the market in my book.

Even Lowes has stopped carrying there products..

With over 25 years in commercial construction, I have never had a problem with either brand. Don't confuse resinous flooring with epoxy flooring which is what most of those garage floor systems are. The expoy is no where's near as durable as the resinous. I wouldn't say it's overkill. A fish room environment is exactly the type of environment that resinous flooring is designed for. And it's not as expensive as you think. It's just not a DIY system.

As for Lowes or HD, I wouldn't judge a products worthiness on whether or not either one of those two places carry it. Quite frankly, most of the products they sell are based on a price point and are not even close to being what I would consider a first choice for quality.
 
Kegogut has the best idea as far as a great looking water proof floor. It is cheaper, faster, and uglier to paint the floor with a 2 part epoxy garage floor paint. Also with the floor paint, you will be reapplying the paint as it will wear. Also, you could just seal the concrete with a concrete sealer. Sealer will also be cheaper but not as nice as Kegogut's floor.


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Having had many years in the hobby your solution should plan for a tank seal failure where you get a large amount of water. By that I mean your "tub" you create in your fish room should be up the wall a few inches.
You don't mention what you are going to do for finish such as drywall etc. What I did was use CDX 1/4" ply on the walls, drywalled the ceiling and used pond liner for the floor. I left the sill plate 2x4 for the wall where the door is so there is 1.5" lip at the door entrance. All along the wall I took the pond liner six inches up the wall.
As mentioned I simply use a squeegee when I get a major spill to direct the water to the floor drain. Get the EDPM pond liner (thick stuff) from pondlinersdirect and its probably the cheapest solution you will find to create a "tub" in your fish room.
 
I would just use epoxy floor paint. Use plywood for the walls and paint them with it as well. All you need to do is keep the water in there long enough to get down the drain. If you want more of a finished look you can use waterproof vinyl floor plank on top. It's cheap, easy to install, durable and looks good. You should also figure out how high you need to put the door threshold to hold the total volume of water if you are doing this to handle a aquarium failure. 1.5" most likely won't cut it.
 
I used linoleum floor and commercial wall base. Went around the wall base with silicone and all is good. I've already tested it a few times :)

Also, it was super cheep. I just made sure to get a linoleum that wasn't very soft. Some of the expensive ones have a padding material on the back side which will sag a bit with an aquarium on top.
 
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