We all test Cal, Alk, Mag. What else do you test for?

You talk about various elements for various colors. I saw in another thread where you spoke of this also, Do you have a reference for this. Not doubting you but am always on the lookout for more knowledge and this is very soecific info your giving. If there is a reliable source I would like to purchase...read...learn from it.Thanks.

to be honest, I dont :) there are info on Zeovit site, but again, just ppl talking, sadly, there are almost no scientific papers on such matters. at least nothing direct ...

what I meant here, is that I dont even test for KH and ca++ ... you can see it from the corals, if tips are burnt or have less tissue .... I know KH has increased.
if any corals look not happy in general, I know I lack KH or CA++.
now about elements ..... some are well known, but none are well documented :)

for example, Iron for greens, or pottasium and its effect on all colors. I have a list of things I can dose .... and each morning looking at corals, I see what I lack and dose accordingly, then check again after work and the day after for changes.
 
You talk about various elements for various colors. I saw in another thread where you spoke of this also, Do you have a reference for this. Not doubting you but am always on the lookout for more knowledge and this is very soecific info your giving. If there is a reliable source I would like to purchase...read...learn from it.Thanks.

Yes.

Please google "Guide of SPS coral coloration (make them more vivid, bright)"

and click the 1st link. That is where I learned about coloration.
 
I started testing for K on a regular basis about a month ago. I have both the KZ and Salifert kits and prefer the Salifert....very easy to use and distinguish the level. When I first tested my level was 290, I brought it up to 400 and now I dose 25ml per day to maintain that level. I have noticed a huge difference in my blues and the growth that I get with my turf scrubber.
 
I started testing for K on a regular basis about a month ago. I have both the KZ and Salifert kits and prefer the Salifert....very easy to use and distinguish the level. When I first tested my level was 290, I brought it up to 400 and now I dose 25ml per day to maintain that level. I have noticed a huge difference in my blues and the growth that I get with my turf scrubber.

You noticed an increase in blue?

Potassium = Reds/Pinks.

Potassium Iodide (iodine) = Blue.
 
You noticed an increase in blue?

Potassium = Reds/Pinks.

Potassium Iodide (iodine) = Blue.

you are 100% wrong.

pottasium = good color in corals. without it, good color is impossible, and growth is impared.. k+ has a relation with all bacteria, let me know if u want me to PM you some scientific papers on it.

it is not as easy as you think ... and the article you posted, is just putting some info from here and zeo site by a person that never understood the point nor tried it themselves ! it is a useless article to be honest ! [in terms of being able to tell author never tried it, he just trusted others, like me] the discussion is a very deep one ... so when I simplefy it on here saying iron = green, its just that, simplified.
 
This may be true in a mixed reef with minimal corals using a salt that has high levels of trace elements.

From my experience, an SPS dominated tank can deplete potassium and iodide MUCH faster than you can replace with small 10% per week water changes.

I use 4 drops per day of lugols solution and 6ml per day of Fauna Marin Ultra Easy K.

Let's not forget that when I tested a fresh batch of newly mixed salt @ 1.026 using Tropic Marin Pro Reef, I was testing potassium at 300 and iodide at 0.00. No amount of water change would help maintain the proper levels because its not even proper right from the bucket.

I'm not say I'm right or you're wrong. The point is all the tanks I've seen in my local club (including myself) are heavy stock SPSs. All the colors are there, and none of us dose Potassium or Iodide. It's just simply as that. If you want to go more advance in reefing, I bet there's nothing wrong with it. Is it necessary to dose them to keep SPSs? I would say no.
 
you are 100% wrong.

pottasium = good color in corals. without it, good color is impossible, and growth is impared.. k+ has a relation with all bacteria, let me know if u want me to PM you some scientific papers on it.

it is not as easy as you think ... and the article you posted, is just putting some info from here and zeo site by a person that never understood the point nor tried it themselves ! it is a useless article to be honest ! [in terms of being able to tell author never tried it, he just trusted others, like me] the discussion is a very deep one ... so when I simplefy it on here saying iron = green, its just that, simplified.

I don't mind being proven wrong. That's how we all learn.

If you could post what you are taking about here publicly, we can all learn from it. :)
 
I don't mind being proven wrong. That's how we all learn.

If you could post what you are taking about here publicly, we can all learn from it. :)

the effects and needs of pottasium are on the net for those interested :)

K+ is like calcium ... part of seawater, elevated values do not change color, and low concentration would making nice colors impossible.

proving that elevated K+ dont make corals purple, is like trying to proove that elevated CA++ at 500 PPM doesnt effect color ... one just needs to try it and observe.
 
I test routinely for the big hitters (Mag, pH, Cal, Alk, NH3/4, NO2, NO3) and I've just started a 6 month regimen of sending my water off to a lab to test for:
  • Alkalinity
  • Ammonia
  • Boron
  • Calcium
  • Copper
  • Iodine
  • Magnesium
  • Molybdenum
  • Nitrates
  • Nitrite
  • Phosphate
  • Potassium
  • Silica
  • Strontium

One plus is this "Confirms" the test results on the tests I'm performing myself and it gives me a "Lab Grade" test across the board. They store my test results for each tank and I can see if there are any subtle trends happening.

It's not cheap but if I only do it a couple of times a year it's not THAT big of an expense especially when you consider WATER is the single largest and most important component of our tanks.
 
how much does it cost to get it lab tested ? just wondering :) it would be very interesting !

RC should make that part of TOTM !
 
It's one of those things where "The more you buy the cheaper it is" but I got a "Pair" of tests (I have 2 tanks) for around $80 and that included the shipping for the "sample" back to the lab. I'm going to try and do it at least every 6 months plus the graphs are pretty cool for each parameter.
 
Hey xenon..what do you use to test iodine? I have the salifert but its hard to read...

I recently found out my Salifert kit was bad.

I was having major issues with my tank recently and realized it was caused by high iodide.

I got a red sea test kit for and my results were 0.09!

I did a massive water change and things are looking up.
 
I recently found out my Salifert kit was bad.

I was having major issues with my tank recently and realized it was caused by high iodide.

I got a red sea test kit for and my results were 0.09!

I did a massive water change and things are looking up.

That's the reason I don't test iodide. I don't trust those normal test kit unless it's lab test. You might overdose and crash your tank if your test results are not accurate.
 
It's one of those things where "The more you buy the cheaper it is" but I got a "Pair" of tests (I have 2 tanks) for around $80 and that included the shipping for the "sample" back to the lab. I'm going to try and do it at least every 6 months plus the graphs are pretty cool for each parameter.

Which lab do you use?
 
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