weld-on ?
- Thread starter steel3470
- Start date
hotshot619
New member
What Kind of material are you building it with 
On a guess acrylic in which case weld on 16 is what you need. Works great too, I just fixed a fairly destroyed Aqaufuge from CPR and is holding up great. A little goes a very long way. Oh and I got mine at Great Lakes Plastic Co Inc in buffalo, just FYI have fun with the build
On a guess acrylic in which case weld on 16 is what you need. Works great too, I just fixed a fairly destroyed Aqaufuge from CPR and is holding up great. A little goes a very long way. Oh and I got mine at Great Lakes Plastic Co Inc in buffalo, just FYI have fun with the build
I'm no expert on the subject,but you might want to consider weld on 3 or 4 over the 16.
16 is thick,dries in about 1sec its better for repairs or gaps.Ime ,it can literally dry coming out of the tube.
3 is thinner gives minutes to work with and 4 has a few hrs before it starts to set,makes it easier to work out airbubbles.
FWIW- you can disolve small pieces of acrylic shavings/chips to 3 or 4 and basically make weldon 16.
16 is thick,dries in about 1sec its better for repairs or gaps.Ime ,it can literally dry coming out of the tube.
3 is thinner gives minutes to work with and 4 has a few hrs before it starts to set,makes it easier to work out airbubbles.
FWIW- you can disolve small pieces of acrylic shavings/chips to 3 or 4 and basically make weldon 16.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Which variety of weld-on did you get? Technique for 3 or 4 will be pretty different from 16.
3 and 4 are very thin and basically require you to assemble the joint "dry" and then wick the solvent in place. Meanwhile, with 16, you generally apply it to the joint, then assemble. I would agree with Steve that 3 or 4 are preferrable for new construction but they require good prep (i.e. the edges you are joining have to be dead flat and true, not rough saw cut edges) and the technique is not intuitive.
Positioning of the box is gonna depend on your overall design - how big is the tank? How big is the box? What's your flow rate like?
3 and 4 are very thin and basically require you to assemble the joint "dry" and then wick the solvent in place. Meanwhile, with 16, you generally apply it to the joint, then assemble. I would agree with Steve that 3 or 4 are preferrable for new construction but they require good prep (i.e. the edges you are joining have to be dead flat and true, not rough saw cut edges) and the technique is not intuitive.
Positioning of the box is gonna depend on your overall design - how big is the tank? How big is the box? What's your flow rate like?
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Yeah, 3 is fine. Just make sure your edges are high quality. Ideally flattened via router. Even a really good saw cut will be a little on the rough side.
How thick is the acrylic? 3 will wick in to thin stuff no problem, but if it is substantial you have to provide a gap for it to wick in to, and then close the gap before it cures. Search for the "pins method" to get some ideas. Though on smaller work like overflow boxes you can just do it all by hand once you get used to it.
How thick is the acrylic? 3 will wick in to thin stuff no problem, but if it is substantial you have to provide a gap for it to wick in to, and then close the gap before it cures. Search for the "pins method" to get some ideas. Though on smaller work like overflow boxes you can just do it all by hand once you get used to it.
