What are good spec's for a reef tank?

jkhudson

New member
I'm setting up a chart for a friend. I know most of what I need but some I've forgot. I also know that there are elements we are now able to affordably test for. Here's a list of what I know. Please fill in the blanks for me.
Cal: 400 - 450
salinity approx 2.1
PH 8.3
Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia: 0
Phosphates 0-.2
I cant remember Alk or Mag. What else am I forgetting?
 
Paul,

interesting on the salinity. I've learned not to doubt you.....
A question, is that for fish more that corals. I've read so much about 1.025-.026. Also all the threads on salt comparisons say mix them to 1.026. That's using a good bit more salt over time.
 
I make salt to 1.023 for a reason, that being the tank water always evapirTes and salinity will always rise. So 1.023 soon become 024 etc. Then water is added and salinity drops back. If you start 1.026 it can go into dangerously high levels quite easily.

1.023 is perfectly fine and makes salt last a little longer.

P
 
I`ve kept my tanks at 1.025-6 for almost two decades. I have always topped up twice daily or had ATOs. I find tanks do better at this salinity, probably because it`s closer to average NSW, and because increased salinity increases the rest of the elements from the salt mix as well.

These are the reef parameters I aim for (and test for):

Temp 78-80
Specific gravity 1.025-6 or 35ppt salinity
pH 8.1-8.3
Calcium 400-420ppm
Alkalinity 8-9 dKH
Magnesium 1350-1400 ppm
Ammonia undetectable
Nitrate undetectable
Phosphate <0.15 ppm (use high sensitivity kit like Merck)
Potassium 380-400 ppm

I don`t ever adjust pH directly. If everything else is ok, pH will follow.
 
I'm kinda with paul on this one. except i do 1.022 since water seems to evaporate really quickly. in my case, when you have at least a 1 gallon dissapearing every day from only 55, that salinity gets up there in a hurry.
 
i do 1.022 since water seems to evaporate really quickly. in my case, when you have at least a 1 gallon dissapearing every day from only 55, that salinity gets up there in a hurry.

Fluctuating salinity is what's really hard on the inhabitants, not so much the actual number as long as it's between 1.023-7 imo. Most inhabitants can really tolerate varying salinity, but keeping it steady is key. Imo, twice daily top ups are essential for tanks without an ATO. My reef ran at 1.029 for possibly as long as 4 months due to faulty calibration fluid with no noticeable effect at all. A friend kept his tank at 1.018 for over a year with no ill effect before I calibrated him hydrometer for him and we found this issue. So imo it's really not that important what the number is, but how steady you keep it.
 
Thanks Paul,

Do you use ATO?


I make salt to 1.023 for a reason, that being the tank water always evapirTes and salinity will always rise. So 1.023 soon become 024 etc. Then water is added and salinity drops back. If you start 1.026 it can go into dangerously high levels quite easily.

1.023 is perfectly fine and makes salt last a little longer.

P
 
JK,

I think you have the basic info already, I would just add to have and use a good set of test kits for alk, calc and mag.

Good friend....

Lynn

I'm setting up a chart for a friend. I know most of what I need but some I've forgot. I also know that there are elements we are now able to affordably test for. Here's a list of what I know. Please fill in the blanks for me.
Cal: 400 - 450
salinity approx 2.1
PH 8.3
Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia: 0
Phosphates 0-.2
I cant remember Alk or Mag. What else am I forgetting?
 
hah! Im terrible. My tank is lucky if I top off every other day.

I also keep it at 1.023 full because of my lack of attention to water level, lol.
 
Paul,
Why don't you like ATO's? We are redoing our kitchen counters and I want to put my RO/DI under the sink and run the line straight to the sump so I don't have to worry about it. As it stands I have a homemade unit with a maxijet in a bucket. When it starts sucking air I know to change buckets.
 
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