What are people using to heat their big tanks?

Plankt0s

Premium Member
I am torn between a few options when considering the heating of several 750 gallon systems. I am looking into either an redundant array of inexpensive heaters (R.A.I.H for all of you computer nerds) :) ie; 8 500W heaters. Or to use a titanium spa heaters with some type of controller. I cant use the water heater connected to a heat exchanger method because I have too many systems. Other then that what is most commonly used method?
 
with bigger systems I really had no big flux of temp. My home heater/a/c took care of most of it.
 
My tanks are prop systems set up in my commercial metal sided building in Northern Wisconsin. I have an infrared heater that runs the length of the building but it gets really cold here. I really want the heaters set up as a redundant system to heat water if my buildings heat goes out.
 
i wish i have you issue!
as most large reef set up i have problem cooling down my tank with less electricity
 
I use several cheap heaters. My thought is that if one fails, its not enough to cook the tank, or let it get to cool.

Not that I think they have kicked on since I've had the tank. Lights seem to be enough.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15596114#post15596114 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mayesj101
Use MH lighting.


I have 3200W of metal halide lighting over each system... BUT THAT DOES NOT HEAT AT NIGHT. :blown:
 
300 W Aqueon

300 W Aqueon

My tank hasn't been up for a winter yet, so this may change...but I plan on using a pair of 300W Aqueon submersible heaters in the inflow chamber of my sump. If one fails, I'll have backup. The water in that chamber is 20" deep which should allow for good heat transfer to the water.

I am really curious if I will need any supplemental heat, with 500G total water volume. I have been told that it will probably be unnecessary.

We'll see in a few months... ;)

LL
 
Just a thought - If these are prop systems and not display systems I am assuming that they are all linked together for common filtration. What if you stagered your lighting periods from 1 prop tank to the next that there is always MHs on helping heat the tank and keep you from having steep dips in temp at night that you will need all the heaters for. You would surely still need heaters, but this could provide valuable electricity savings.

Phil


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601107#post15601107 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by biowerks
I have 3200W of metal halide lighting over each system... BUT THAT DOES NOT HEAT AT NIGHT. :blown:
 
I use five 500 watt heaters on four Medusa controllers. I have the temps set at varied levels so they don't all run at one time.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15602077#post15602077 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PhilipOSU
Just a thought - If these are prop systems and not display systems I am assuming that they are all linked together for common filtration. What if you stagered your lighting periods from 1 prop tank to the next that there is always MHs on helping heat the tank and keep you from having steep dips in temp at night that you will need all the heaters for. You would surely still need heaters, but this could provide valuable electricity savings.

Phil

I have them all on different systems. Each system is a 4'x16'x1' tank with a 250 gal refugium and 150 gal sump.

I have ordered some 800W heaters and some 250W heaters. I hope that one 800 and one or two 250's will be enough in each system. I have always used the 5 watt per gallon rule when setting up other tanks but I think that with larger amounts of water I can get away with less.
 
I used my MH lights and Yes I know they don't heat at night but it really didn't lose much overnight. In fact I had many redunant systems for heating that never really got used. Cooling was the main issue. I would look forward to a few degree drop at night to give me a buffer zone for the next day. On my 1700 gallon system I only used two 300 watt heaters to slow the cooling at night. I had a radiant infloor heat system that would come on in case of an emergency temperature drop but that only kicked in three times in four-five years.
 
I actually checked out of curiosity My tank sits about 80.5 degrees during the day with a little fluctuation, and drops to 79 degrees at night not even running a heater currently I'm sure the heaters will kick in during the winter months, but I will have to wait till then to know how much.
 
Its good to hear from a fellow Minnesotan, thanks for the info guys. I guess that I feel a little better knowing that other people that have the volume that im working with are able to rely on the water temp not fluctuating much. We just have such harsh winters up here so its one of my biggest concerns.


Khaos thanks for input im glad to see that you are doing better. Hows your tank coming along?
 
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Re: 300 W Aqueon

Re: 300 W Aqueon

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15601492#post15601492 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lightsluvr
but I plan on using a pair of 300W Aqueon submersible heaters in the inflow chamber of my sump. If one fails, I'll have backup. The water in that chamber is 20" deep which should allow for good heat transfer to the water.

LL

Interesting in my 230 gal's sump, I have my heater placed in the middle (return) compartment. The water is about 4" more shallow in this areabing about 12" deep. I wonder if my heating would be more efficient if I placed the heater in the inflow chamber instead?
 
if you ran your lights at night you could save a ton of electricity. have the heaters for the really cold days...
not sure if that fits in with your viewing schedule though.
 
i never had a heater in my tank since 2004
my temp never go down below 76 since i have my current set up .i always look forward @ night to relieve some of my heat issues.maybe because my tank is in wall and so cal never experience harsh winter.maybe i should move to minn or alaska
 
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