What color is this?

RonMidtownStomp

RonMidtownStomp

You can edit this?
Neither Dee nor I can read the Elos Phosphate test kit. What do you think? By the way, this is not a solicitation for advice on how to address my phosphates. I'm doing water changes and changed my GFO about a week ago. I have a very large water volume system, so such adjustments take time. I would like to know about where I'm at, though. I have no idea from these images or the same in person. These were shot with flash.

All three images are of the same sample and reading card:

2798445070038763404S600x600Q85.jpg


2110247340038763404S600x600Q85.jpg


2937482120038763404S600x600Q85.jpg


Ron
 
I thought it was just me, but the color's RGB values on "Color Detector" (downloaded from the wondering world of freeware found using Google) shows the colors are just really similar on the card. The color of the sample varies even more than the colors on the card based on where in the sample you pick your color. I have no idea how to read this.

Ron
 
We wouldn't be much help as Cameras and monitors shift the color as well.

Looking straight down through the top of the sample in a well lit kitchen, on a white surface is the best way.

I set the sample next to the card, look at the one I think it is, shifting back and forth determing which is ligher or darker, the moving the direction I guess if at all.

Repeat the test a few times to verify results.

FWIW, those elos are the best kit I used......but got tired of the same thing and bought a Hanna Photometer.

I thought the club bought one? If not, they should.
 
I suppose we could get super nerdy on it and realize that even though they may be shifted, given they are photographed together.......they are shifted proportionally (the sample and the card shown that is)

Check the Elos page and double check, but you may be able to double the volume and dosage amounts to get a deeper column to help you percieve between them.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=399
 
Feel your pain. Voiced the same problems a few months ago...Basically, my answer to your question is the one I give myself...

"It doesn't matter!" I understand the desire to know where exactly you stand, but it aint gonna happen with this test kit. Comes down to, does it really matter if it's .1 or .25, or .5? Only thing you can really go by is the point of reference from which you started to satisfy your curiosity along the way. Was it that dark blue when you started? No? Then your on the right track! But looking at the pic(and all things being proportionate as dots pointed out) your not close enough to your target point.

I say it doesnt really matter because you cant really double up on media, if you do, you run the risk of shocking your stuff. And blue is blue, and the problem wont be solved til you test at .01 or below...So, ultimately my conclusion is, dont sweat the small stuff!! :)

-Justin
 
Been there last night with my PO4 kit! What I found that works best is to put the tube directly on top of the chart so that the color of the card is directly under it. If you can see the darker blue color of the card underneath, then that's too high and lower down one (the card color should blend in or disappear). That would be the reading.
 
Justin74 said:
Feel your pain. Voiced the same problems a few months ago...Basically, my answer to your question is the one I give myself...

"It doesn't matter!" I understand the desire to know where exactly you stand, but it aint gonna happen with this test kit. Comes down to, does it really matter if it's .1 or .25, or .5? Only thing you can really go by is the point of reference from which you started to satisfy your curiosity along the way. Was it that dark blue when you started? No? Then your on the right track! But looking at the pic(and all things being proportionate as dots pointed out) your not close enough to your target point.

I say it doesnt really matter because you cant really double up on media, if you do, you run the risk of shocking your stuff. And blue is blue, and the problem wont be solved til you test at .01 or below...So, ultimately my conclusion is, dont sweat the small stuff!! :)

Agreed, I run a phosphate reactor and mine is in the .02 range while checking under a hanna meter, so when I use my Salifert test and can tell its less than 1 on the chart, I feel fine

-Justin
Click to expand...
 
Too high for colorful acros.

The club does own a colorimetic photometer but not the Hanna. It uses SeaTest reagents and has a plus or minus 0.05 ppm tollerence. Sort of useless. Maybe we should just admit failure and buy one that works.
 
Hey Ron

It takes a couple days for GFO to saturate in a reactor if there is more PO4 than it can remove. I'd plan on swapping it out every couple days until you start to see a drop. Once you get it down under 0.07 use the test kit to tell when to swap it. After you get it below 0.07 the first time it will come up above 0.07 very quickly for two or three more GFO swap outs before you start to see the normal swap out cycle, about once a month.

FWIW - I did double dose mine until it got under 0.1 then I decreased back to the recommended dose.

Hang in there

ps I sent your rainbow poci home with Dale. Nice guy. Good to finally meet him.
 
Cool, thanks Brian for the poci.

Dee and I are both pretty sure based on today's retest that not only is the solution much lighter than in that picture, but that it's pretty securely between .05 and .1. In the above pictures, there's the part where it's in the shadow and then there's the lit part. I'm assuming they want us to go based on the lit color, which is similar in the picture to what we're getting in today's test result. The question yesterday was really whether it was .5 or .1 based on the non-photo analysis since the two colors look so similar.

The test is super easy to use, so I'm going to keep testing daily to see how it turns out. My current plan is to continue to do 45 gallon every other day water changes until it's solidly and consistently more clear than it is now. I have 1,000 gallons worth of salt.

The advice on swapping the GFO out again sounds good. I'll do that tonight in case it's saturated. It'll be even easier if I leave the carbon where it is.

I'm also not sure that my being red/green color deficient has any effect on my ability to read this test result. Based on what I'm gathering this color guard is only shades of blue?

Ron
 
I've heard mixed results on testing the output from a GFO reactor. Our result is lighter than the tank water but not clear. I'm going to swap the GFO and see if it's still just lighter or actually comes out REALLY light or clear. When I test fresh mixed Reef Crystals, it's pretty much clear.

I'm glad this is the easiest test to perform.
 
It's probably also worth noting that my Hawkins Echinata has nice blue growth tips, my ORA Chips Acro has nice blue growth tips, my Most Wanted Abrohensis from Karl is finally growing and now branching, and the Setosa which I could have sworn was a goner months and months ago is finally hitting what appears to be a growth spurt. The Cali Tort also has great color and is branching.

Ron
 
Ron I have the same problem seeing what color any of my test are PO4 and Alkalinty are the hardest for me guess Im going blind.
So I have found it best to do the test in natural sunlight.
As for PO4 anything above .05 triggers me to change my RowaPhos
 
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