So, I am in the process of putting together my 330 gallon tank and all the sudden realized I do not have a heater selected for it. I am also noticing it is hard to find a heater for a 330 gallon tank. So my question is what do you all of the people with large reef tanks use to keep the tanks at the correct temperature?
What heater(s) to use for a big tank?
- Thread starter agruetz
- Start date
iced98lx
New member
Two 500 Watt Finnex Titanium Heating elements. Controller with fail safe.
My controller tracks time on for each heater (runs every other one, can turnm both on if one isn't heating etc) and I plan to replace them as they get up in hours vs waiting for failure. At $40 a pop, I'd rather replace them yearly vs having something go wrong. My tank is in a room that requires heat year round though.
Carpentersreef
Member
I use a hot water PEX loop in my sump for my 600g display.
I used to use electric heaters but they were expensive to run and kept breaking down.
You'll need a controller of course.
I used to use electric heaters but they were expensive to run and kept breaking down.
You'll need a controller of course.
A_CoupleClowns
New member
I have been running 3 300w finnex titaniums on a 700g total volume with out any problems. I would like to eventually go the pex tube route mentioned above to save $ up here in cold Minnesota though.
usingthejohn
New member
To those with a pex system, is it a lot of work to add the additional plumbing?
muttley000
MTS Sufferer!
I spent about an hour installing the plumbing side of mine.
water is wet
New member
I use a ranco controller and run a 800w jbj titanium heater and 2 300w eheim on a 550g system.
Carpentersreef
Member
It depends on how much access you have to your plumbing, but it's pretty straight forward.
About an hour to do it for mine, like Muttley000.
Raul-7
Member
Any build thread for how this is done? Does it only heat when the hot water is running throughout the house (ie. someone using the shower, etc.)?
Carpentersreef
Member
I have my build thread on a Canadian forum:http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=68121&page=10
If I pasted the link wrong, go to page 10, post 92.
Heating the aquarium doesn't affect the regular use of hot water. The water flow is relatively slow and just results in slightly cooler water being returned to the hot water tank.
Any other questions, let me know.
If I pasted the link wrong, go to page 10, post 92.
Heating the aquarium doesn't affect the regular use of hot water. The water flow is relatively slow and just results in slightly cooler water being returned to the hot water tank.
Any other questions, let me know.
Raul-7
Member
sfsuphysics
Active member
I use multiple smaller heaters, I've had some fail, but the upside is when one fails it doesn't take everything out. I probably should connect them all to a temperature controller, but I guess I've just been lazy in setting up every bit with my tank, the ol "Hey it works I don't need to do anything else" mindset.
I thought about doing a PEX to water heater plan (if you have electric water heater, don't even bother, the math will beat you), researching it got the price very high in a short time, and then the other day my wife tells me there's no hot water, thermocouple crapped out on the burner, so there's a failure issue there (although I doubt it would have been catastrophic (from the time it died to when I fixed it 48-72 hours at most)... not having a fancy controller that sends me a text message that tells me something is wrong with my system has me leaning away from that direction.
Either way, if an electric aquarium heater craps out (and you're using more than one) it's not a critical failure and something that can be very quickly fixed because I have extras on hand (although knowing when one fails can be problematic), if my water heater failed, I'll take my time to fix/replace it I can go grungy for a couple days if necessary but don't want to think I need to hurry a solution because of my fish tank.
I thought about doing a PEX to water heater plan (if you have electric water heater, don't even bother, the math will beat you), researching it got the price very high in a short time, and then the other day my wife tells me there's no hot water, thermocouple crapped out on the burner, so there's a failure issue there (although I doubt it would have been catastrophic (from the time it died to when I fixed it 48-72 hours at most)... not having a fancy controller that sends me a text message that tells me something is wrong with my system has me leaning away from that direction.
Either way, if an electric aquarium heater craps out (and you're using more than one) it's not a critical failure and something that can be very quickly fixed because I have extras on hand (although knowing when one fails can be problematic), if my water heater failed, I'll take my time to fix/replace it I can go grungy for a couple days if necessary but don't want to think I need to hurry a solution because of my fish tank.
Carpentersreef
Member
That's way more complicated than what I did.
Carpentersreef
Member
My parts list consisted of about 50' of PEX 1/2 inch, 1 recirc pump from Home Depot, and about a dozen plumbing fittings plus the crimp rings.
I plugged the recirc pump into my Profilux control bar.
Like I said, you will need a controller.
Before, using electric heaters, the 500w heaters, (Finnex) would eventually break open exposing the electrical components to saltwater. No heat and a tripped breaker. Good thing I have large water volume because the copper wires inside were instantly exposed to the tank water.
I've been running the PEX system for over 1 year and haven't had a single problem with it.
I plugged the recirc pump into my Profilux control bar.
Like I said, you will need a controller.
Before, using electric heaters, the 500w heaters, (Finnex) would eventually break open exposing the electrical components to saltwater. No heat and a tripped breaker. Good thing I have large water volume because the copper wires inside were instantly exposed to the tank water.
I've been running the PEX system for over 1 year and haven't had a single problem with it.
Raul-7
Member
But if you read that thread it says something about making it a closed loop to reduce the risk of bacteria contamination in the loop; so that would need 2 recirculating pumps and 2 heat exchangers.
Don't you need the solenoid to prevent the loss of hot water from the coil once the desired temperature is reached?
Don't you need the solenoid to prevent the loss of hot water from the coil once the desired temperature is reached?
Last edited:
Carpentersreef
Member
I didn't see that, but all a PEX heating loop does is extend the current domestic hot water system.
Where would bacteria enter the system?
Where would bacteria enter the system?
Raul-7
Member
To summarize the bacteria threat is present, but the fact that you're using an open loop might transfer the bacteria to your aquarium especially when the loop has been sitting unused for a long time [like in the summer].
Essentially the safest option is to use a heat exchanger and plumb the two loops separately.
Essentially the safest option is to use a heat exchanger and plumb the two loops separately.
Carpentersreef
Member
I came across the post that you were talking about.
Bottom line is that it's a non-issue.
Show me a study that identifies the bacterial populations in our domestic hot water systems, then we can discuss any potential dangers from there.
The hot water heating loop setup is comparable to having a larger house that has longer runs for hot water supply to the drinking faucet. For that matter, once you turn off the taps, the water will cool down to room temperature anyways. I don't see any merit in that argument.:spin3:
Bottom line is that it's a non-issue.
Show me a study that identifies the bacterial populations in our domestic hot water systems, then we can discuss any potential dangers from there.
The hot water heating loop setup is comparable to having a larger house that has longer runs for hot water supply to the drinking faucet. For that matter, once you turn off the taps, the water will cool down to room temperature anyways. I don't see any merit in that argument.:spin3:
