What is best course of action
- Thread starter Osama
- Start date
The first pic of the Naso's eye looks like flukes. But the pics of the Sohal looks like battle damage or a bacterial infection.
How long have you had these fish? QT? If so, what meds did you use? Any fighting (Sohals are very aggressive)?
How long have you had these fish? QT? If so, what meds did you use? Any fighting (Sohals are very aggressive)?
Scratching against rocks can cause skin irritation, like what you are seeing on the Sohal. If he does it enough and cuts the skin, then that can lead to infection.
But the underlying problem here is probably external parasites. Scratching is a classic symptom of Ich. But I also wouldn't rule out flukes (especially considering the Naso's eye).
If I were you, I would first treat with Prazipro (for flukes) since that can be done in the DT (or QT, if you prefer). If that doesn't resolve the problem then you are looking at pulling all the fish, going fallow, and treating for external protozoa with copper in a QT. So, hope the Prazi works.
Osama
New member
Thanks Humble: My LFS asked me to keep on hand 4oz each of PraziPro and mardel. I have never used neither product yet. But I do have them. I believe he wanted me to treat new fish in a QT for 3 weeks with Prazi Pro then with Marvel for one week before moving into DT?????
I will test the Prazi Pro... is one dose enough or? more is needed
I will test the Prazi Pro... is one dose enough or? more is needed
Newsmyrna80
Active member
You will need to do at least two rounds of Prazi, preferably in a QT. Second rounds gets the hatched eggs.
Prazi is the only "reef safe" med I know of... except it may kill feather dusters/tube worms. Another word of caution: If you have a ton of those tiny tube worms and/or bristleworms (usually down in the sump) and it kills a bunch of them off, then that could potentially trigger an ammonia spike.
Other than that, you are good to go.
Dose once, do your 20% WC 5-6 days later and then dose again. And done. Also remember not to run skimmer, carbon, UV, etc. during treatment.
Try to remove as many tube worms/bristleworms as you can prior to treatment. Some dying off is OK; but any massive die-off (of anything) is usually a problem. Other than that, just have lots of freshly mixed s/w on hand just in case. Good luck!
