I use a table saw with a nice sharp-
I use a table saw with a nice sharp-
carbide blade. Mine is a ten inch table saw.
If the acrylic is covered by paper leave it on.
The sharpness of the blade is key. I'd say 80 or more teeth too. A sharp blade will make nice shavings and wont unduely heat the material. Heat is your enemy here. You do not want the material to melt.
Also keep the blade retracted so only a small portion protrudes above the deck, just a little higher (1/4 inch) than the thickness of the tube.
Going slow is also key as is maintaining the pieces orientation to the blade. The total Cut should take maybe 3 to 5 minutes depending on how it's going.
I but my piece to be cut up against a length stop, roll it to the center of the blade where it hits another stop that is placed so the piece is centered over the blade when it hits. Then I slowly spin over the cutting point from there.
If the cut doesn't come out smooth enough it may be necessary to smooth it out. Tack down pieces of sandpaper on a flat surface and slowly rotate the piece in small circles on it. Start out with a 200 or 300 grit and end around 600 to 800. That will leave you and end smooth enough to join with the Weld-on products. It is important the the pieces mate exactly.
This is the technique I used to make a large Beckett type skimmer completely from acrylic. It cranked on my 120 tank.
Ron
