what kind of flash should i get?

surfnvb7

Premium Member
I am in need of a new external flash to do some macro work (non-aquarium stuff), and was wondering what to get.

I imagine it will mostly be used for macro work, but with the possibility of some general shooting also.

Any recomendations? it will go on a canon 40D.
 
I have, and like, a Canon MR-14EX for macro work. I rarely use a flash for other shooting but do have an older 420EX that still works pretty well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12524704#post12524704 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TitusvileSurfer
The 580 EXII and Canon 40D were made for eachother. No, seriously...they really were.

:rolleyes: No actually. From Canon's website:

"Newly designed to match with the EOS-1D Mark III"

Regardless, it doesn't matter. The 580 is completely compatible with the 40D but is likely overkill for what you're asking for. The 430 would probably do just fine.
 
Can you explain what type of macro work you are going to do?
A macro ring flash can work for some things, other things can be done qith a much cheaper of camera flash with some diffusor on it or a small softbox. multiple off camera flashes are sometimes also used. I really like the Nikon ring flash that allows you to add as many elements as you like and gives you control over the output of each of those flashes on the ring.
If you are doing product macros you might be interested by a light tent and small controlable output flashes from the sides and one maybe from the top and maybe some lighting from below depending on what are your subjects and the effects you like to achieve.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12524905#post12524905 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by beerguy
:rolleyes: No actually. From Canon's website:

"Newly designed to match with the EOS-1D Mark III"

Regardless, it doesn't matter. The 580 is completely compatible with the 40D but is likely overkill for what you're asking for. The 430 would probably do just fine.

Correct, but the 40D and 1D mk III have the same menus. It is these menus that work with the flash. Though the 1D mk III is a far superior camera, the 40D is practically a miniature version of it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12529200#post12529200 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maroun.c
Can you explain what type of macro work you are going to do?
A macro ring flash can work for some things, other things can be done qith a much cheaper of camera flash with some diffusor on it or a small softbox. multiple off camera flashes are sometimes also used. I really like the Nikon ring flash that allows you to add as many elements as you like and gives you control over the output of each of those flashes on the ring.
If you are doing product macros you might be interested by a light tent and small controlable output flashes from the sides and one maybe from the top and maybe some lighting from below depending on what are your subjects and the effects you like to achieve.

it is going to be used for some anatomical pictures during sugery of some veins/arteries and nerves, area in question would probably be about 1/2"x1/2", which i figure should be plenty easy with my 150mm sigma lens.

i will also end up using it for other stuff such as shooting bugs/flowers and other random things.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12530815#post12530815 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TitusvileSurfer
Surgery pictures? Wow. I would get a MR-14EX. This would be good for bugs and other stuff right in front of the lens.

yeah, that may be reasonable. this is coming out of my own pocket, and will have a dual personal usage....so it won't be used exclusively for that. but the low end flash ring should be ok, the upper end one is probably a little overkill though.

but basically, i wanted to know the pros/cons of getting a flash ring vs. a speedlight. b/c i know i've seen macro users using speedlights also, in fact it seems to be more common than using a flash ring.
 
That is because you can use the other flash for other pictures as well. The subject has to be a certain distance away from the lens, or the lens itself will make a shadow. The shots your talking about are going to be in your face. You'll practically be touching the lens to the bugs and you'll be pretty darn close to the veins and such I would imagine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12531053#post12531053 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TitusvileSurfer
That is because you can use the other flash for other pictures as well. The subject has to be a certain distance away from the lens, or the lens itself will make a shadow. The shots your talking about are going to be in your face. You'll practically be touching the lens to the bugs and you'll be pretty darn close to the veins and such I would imagine.

not really, i have the sigma 150mm, so it has a much greater working distance than the canon 100mm or 50mm. but yeah, i remember about the lens shadow, that could be a problem with the sigma lens. but i could have sworn i've seen adjustable arms so the flash can reach over beyond the end of the lens.

but also, is that canon flash ring going to be compatible with the end of the sigma 150mm? it has internal focus obviously, but will i need some sort of adapter?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12529691#post12529691 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TitusvileSurfer
Correct, but the 40D and 1D mk III have the same menus. It is these menus that work with the flash. Though the 1D mk III is a far superior camera, the 40D is practically a miniature version of it.


Do you just make this stuff up on the fly?

:lol:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12529732#post12529732 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by surfnvb7
it is going to be used for some anatomical pictures during sugery of some veins/arteries and nerves, area in question would probably be about 1/2"x1/2", which i figure should be plenty easy with my 150mm sigma lens.

i will also end up using it for other stuff such as shooting bugs/flowers and other random things.
What about talking to other labs that have a dissection microscope? No need to get your nice camera tainted with rat guts. :eek2:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12531503#post12531503 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by J. Montgomery
What about talking to other labs that have a dissection microscope? No need to get your nice camera tainted with rat guts. :eek2:

got several microscopes, but not the ones w/ built in cameras. besides, would rather use my camera then one of those anyways. surgery areas are clean, no guts. :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12531354#post12531354 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by beerguy
Do you just make this stuff up on the fly?

:lol:
Have you ever used both the 40D and 1Ds mk III? They have the same setup and controls, everything works the same way between the two. Now, the 1Ds mk III does everything MUCH better, but the controls and functions are very, very similar. These controls and functions are what work with the 580 EX II. You can control the flash directly from the camera...either camera.

Another great thing about the 580 EX II is the slave/master relationship. It can talk to multiple flashes and make them all light together. Most other flashes can only take orders (slave), not give them.
 
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Yes. Actually the controls on all Canon cameras are very similar. ;) The MR14-EX ring flash, that I recommended very early in the thread, can also be used as a master.

Al - the Sigma 150 looks like it uses a 72mm filter size. There is an adapter ring for that size for use with the 14ex

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/112547-REG/Canon_2829A002_72C_Macrolite_Adapter.html

It wouldn't hurt to give B&H a call to make sure that they work together but it sounds like that's your best bet.
 
I would go with the Ring flash too as it does not take additional brakets like the ones mentioned above to save from having lens shadow. with the 150 mm you could be shooting from far so shadows are not a problem however the direct light will not look really nice on your pictures, bouncing and diffusing your flash could give you nice results I'm sure but it won't be possible because of the overhead lights on the surgery room and you don't really want to warry about boucing surface colour and exposure and any objects in between in an operating theater environment. Your safest bet for nice pictures with the least amount of settings would be the ring flash.
The disadvantage of those is that pictures would usually look dull as there is no shadows with those, but in photography types that you mention this is exactly what yo uneed a good picture without having to worry about flash ratios or setting up wireless flashes which will not be always possible in OR.
Good luck and please post some of your results.
 
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