What nem can I keep under these lights?
- Thread starter ezhoops
- Start date
WaffleWalffle22
Zoa Extreemist
Basically anything... A carpet anemone would fit but I think I'd keep a carpet under metal halides. So try some LTA or a Sebae!
clowns101
Active member
I would'nt say "basicly anything".Yes T5's are strong but with only 3.12 watts per gallon I would'nt dare put a Sebae in there.Espeicialy with a depth of 18" inches.Ive never kept a Sebae alive with out about 6 watts to the gallon of T5.So I really dont think a sand dwelling anemone will be a good choice.Mabey..I said mabey a Long Tentecal anemone.I had one that was a nice green color turn kinda brown on me with MH at a 18" depth.So I think a Bubble Tip will be a really good choice.
Sorry if I sounded rude.This is all IME.
Toddrtrex
Premium Member
Does that fixture have individual reflectors? Going to make a huge difference in what you can/cannot keep.
marc price
Active member
I've not only kept and grew a H. crispa in 100gal reef under 6x 48" NO 32watt t8 zoo-med bulbs but it regained all lost zooxanthellae of it's bleached condition when new. I've successfully kept S. haddoni (3years) and E. quadricolor (4years), under the above standard output fluorescent bulbs. All of the above were traded back to the lfs's when i lost interest or wanted to try another species.
The watts/gal rule doesn't work. the above was on a 100gal aquarium. I now keep sebae's (3years), and a lta (new), under 4x 48" HO 54watt t5's over the same 100gal 72"x18"x18" reef. That's 216watts on a 100gal = 2.16watts/gallon, or you could say 216watts over 67gal (48") = 3.2watts/gallon.
I'd say he can keep anything but the following exceptions; H. magnifica and S. gigantea require higher light energy, also the 50gal breeder is the wrong dimensions for H. magnifica. S. mertensii is another because it'll grow much too large.
Keep in mind that well you have enough light for S. haddoni, it would dominate and out grow a 50gal breeder. H. crispa would also eventually be a little cramped too.
The watts/gal rule doesn't work. the above was on a 100gal aquarium. I now keep sebae's (3years), and a lta (new), under 4x 48" HO 54watt t5's over the same 100gal 72"x18"x18" reef. That's 216watts on a 100gal = 2.16watts/gallon, or you could say 216watts over 67gal (48") = 3.2watts/gallon.
I'd say he can keep anything but the following exceptions; H. magnifica and S. gigantea require higher light energy, also the 50gal breeder is the wrong dimensions for H. magnifica. S. mertensii is another because it'll grow much too large.
Keep in mind that well you have enough light for S. haddoni, it would dominate and out grow a 50gal breeder. H. crispa would also eventually be a little cramped too.
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clowns101
Active member
Ima just saying my experince.
Not to argue about it but this is why I say what I say:
Ive had more than 30 anemones.All have lived happy and healthy for years now.I use the watts/per gal rule for the following reasons:
1)Ive had bubble tips live in the sand before because I had to much light/Bubbles generly like anywhere between 2 1/2 and 6 watts.
2)Ive had Crispas live in the rocks because I didnt have enough light.They generally like anywhere between 6 and 8 watts to the gallon.
3)As said above Ive also had the same thing happen with Haddonis.They want to be able to all the light they can get so they move to the rocks.
4)Ive also had anemones run away from the light.Ive had bubbles/LTA/and even Crispas!Ive done my own little "studies" and Ive found out what most anemones like for light/what they run from/what they look best under ect.
I will say that people think thier anemones are doing just fine under low light because they are growing.Actully they arent growing,they are expanding to get more light.The more they expand and move up the more light they will get.They arent growing because they are thriving they are simply expanding because of low lighting levels in the tank.
Ive also came to the conclusion that most anemones will look 10 times better with the combonation of MH/HQI and T5's.The colorationand growth is amazing with this combonation.They can also look really good with 6 or more T5's.
Im just saying my experinces and Im not trying to argue with anyone.Ive done my share of things like this before to.I had(and succesfully)kept a Ritteri anemone in a 10 gal for 2years.The anemone lived but he didnt thrive.
I look at it like this:You can live off of Roman Noodles but you wont be stron and you wont grow and look healthy with a diet of Roman Noodles.Same thing with anemones they will live under low light but wont thrive and grow.
Sorry for my sob story but its just...its just what it is!
Thanks,
Austin/clowns101
Not to argue about it but this is why I say what I say:
Ive had more than 30 anemones.All have lived happy and healthy for years now.I use the watts/per gal rule for the following reasons:
1)Ive had bubble tips live in the sand before because I had to much light/Bubbles generly like anywhere between 2 1/2 and 6 watts.
2)Ive had Crispas live in the rocks because I didnt have enough light.They generally like anywhere between 6 and 8 watts to the gallon.
3)As said above Ive also had the same thing happen with Haddonis.They want to be able to all the light they can get so they move to the rocks.
4)Ive also had anemones run away from the light.Ive had bubbles/LTA/and even Crispas!Ive done my own little "studies" and Ive found out what most anemones like for light/what they run from/what they look best under ect.
I will say that people think thier anemones are doing just fine under low light because they are growing.Actully they arent growing,they are expanding to get more light.The more they expand and move up the more light they will get.They arent growing because they are thriving they are simply expanding because of low lighting levels in the tank.
Ive also came to the conclusion that most anemones will look 10 times better with the combonation of MH/HQI and T5's.The colorationand growth is amazing with this combonation.They can also look really good with 6 or more T5's.
Im just saying my experinces and Im not trying to argue with anyone.Ive done my share of things like this before to.I had(and succesfully)kept a Ritteri anemone in a 10 gal for 2years.The anemone lived but he didnt thrive.
I look at it like this:You can live off of Roman Noodles but you wont be stron and you wont grow and look healthy with a diet of Roman Noodles.Same thing with anemones they will live under low light but wont thrive and grow.
Sorry for my sob story but its just...its just what it is!
Thanks,
Austin/clowns101
marc price
Active member
clowns101, i've heard that argument before and know the difference between a anemone expanded reaching for more light and healthy growth. Reaching for light isn't necessarily a sign of bad health or vitality. S. haddoni for example is found in both shallow and deep water. The deep water counterparts can look like a pizza pie vs. tight tentacled semi flat or flexed shallow water counterparts. Going on this logic the reasons for your mixed results may have more to do with environmental aspects of where on the reef the individual animals where from as well as other aspects of H20Q including water bound organic or inorganic chemicals etc.
This is not to say your findings regarding light requirements when put in perspective aren't valid and i appreciate your telling us of your exceptions to the rules, just that there's more to it then a flawed watt/gallon rule.
This is not to say your findings regarding light requirements when put in perspective aren't valid and i appreciate your telling us of your exceptions to the rules, just that there's more to it then a flawed watt/gallon rule.
WaffleWalffle22
Zoa Extreemist
Watts don't matter IMO unless you have PC. 
