What Should I know about Ozone?

uztaryn

New member
I am considering adding an Ozone Generator to my system. What should I know?

I also have a 36w UV sterilzer (probably too small of a unit) but want to make sure I don't have issues with the two together.

I am at about 1200g total.
 
I wouldn't add ozone unless your going to keep only SPS. It's in my opinion a big hassle, a little dangerous, and there isn't a good probe out there to use to regulate it. A lot of people who have used it have qiut. You already have a UV, you shouldn't need both. If you feel your UV is not large enough, just add another one and alternate when you change the bulbs and you will have redundancy.
 
So even with my controller it isn't stable? I want to make sure I can keep all the water column parasites dead. Does UV do that as well as Ozone?

Is Ozone really that dangerous? I would hate to kill all my stuff.
 
You could also not only kill your corals AND fish ozone needs to be removed from the air after you pass it through your water by using carbon or it can be dangerous to your family if they breath it. A lot of large instutions and zoos use ozone but most of your top of the line reef stores use UV. RonC actually scarred his fish with to much ozone, I don't know if it actualy burnt the fish but it left some ugly scars.
 
ORP is a crap measurement and really is not a fool proof way of dosing ozone. Many people use ORP as a control point and have no issues and many have had issues.

I lost a bit due to over dosing my tank with Ozone. My Blue Tangs got burnt badly from it. They lived but took them while to recover.

If you have a good skimmer I would not bother with it.

If you do decide to run it, run an ORP probe for a few months just to get an idea where the tank runs. Take that average number and add 10-20 to it and us that as a control point. Start Dosing at a very small amount for only a short peroid of time. Run the output water into ALOT of carbon and vent any ozone outside. It builds up in a fish room and can become dangerous.
 
I wouldn't add it unless you find that your ORP is low. Brad's ORP stay's up in the 400's without it, so you might not even need it. My ORP probe say's mine is around 280, and I don't think that is accurate because my water is crystal clear.
 
so from the sounds of it I should just add another UV.... I have the 36w coralife unit but it isnt rated for a system as large as mine.

Perhaps I will take your advice and just add another UV.

I have 1 gold rim tang that has aquired Ich. I want to get rid of the ich but it is next to impossible to catch a fish in my tank. I am worried that the ich is going to spread.

It had gone away (prob just the off cycle) but has now come back. I have been feeding Vitamin C, Garlic extract, and kent Zoa soaked food. the only fish really effected is the Gold rim tang.

Any reef safe products that anyone has had success with?
 
is it getting the proper nutition and is anyone stressing it out? keep up th garlic itll help for sure
 
oh yeah he eats a ton... gets macro algea daily, Formula two, prime reef, mysis, cyclopeeze, emeral entree, and pellets. I cycle some of the foods and some are fed daily.

No one fights with him, he is actually pretty much the boss of the tank.
 
You feed nori too right?? and broccoli and romaine lettece is a nice variation every so often. Im sure the microalgea compensates well if not better than nori... but might as well toss that in there too :)
 
Did the tang make it through 6 weeks of QT and still come down with ich??? I have not saw any reef safe ich cure that works. Garlic is your best bet since you cannot catch it. I think it must work the same way it did on our Great Dane. We gave him garlic tablets daily and he never had a flea, I think it came out through his skin and the fleas didn't like it. It may do the same with fish but I'm not sure
 
Everyone gets bit by the "oh it will be OK" bug. Right now I have a 7" Vlamingi tang in QT and I'm dying to get him in the big tank but I know better. It's been 2 1/2 weeks and 3 1/2 to go. So far so good.
 
Good example why ORP is a poor measurement. 400 for Mantis's Tank and 280 For Cwards and you can easly say both tanks are equally clean.

ORP is more of a trend measurment then an absolute one. You will see it tend to go up with good skimming and go down when the skimmer starts to gunk up, you can even see when you feed the fish the ORP will tend to drop a few points.
 
right now IMO nutrition is the best thing you can do. the jury is still out on garlic.
to catch the fish try catching him just as the lights are going out for the nightkeep a light on in the room and he should stay near the front glass for you. if that doesn't work give em a few hours and catch him once the fish are asleep.
 
Get a 12" net, leave it in the tank so he gets use to it, and bait him with nori up against the wall. When he goes in to eat, BLIKITY-BLAM! Then get that guy in QT. I found that a 36" tank, even if it's not a tall one, seems to work best for tang QT's.

I researched UV a while back, and for a system of your size, the rate you have to pass water through to even remotely impact ICH, and the amount of dwell time it requires... You're probably talking a grand plus for a solution, and even at that it's no guarantee what so ever.
 
its killing me too. I finally have a tank large enough to add a few fish and I hafta wait at least 6 weeks between each one. (seriously considering two QT tanks)!!

Learned my lesson the hardest way, lost all my fish (2 month of reefing) ... qt everything now 6 weeks no matter what., Almost gave in on these bartletts and wham, ick. bleh.
 
I got my blue hippo tang from a guy who had him in a sump because he was being picked on. Literally completely covered with ich when I got it. Next purchase = skunk cleaner shrimp. He got right to it - just like Jacque in Finding Nemo. 24 hours later there was no ick - just a tang that needed a little time to heal and a fat and happy shrimp. He's never had ich since.

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I've never tried Ozone, but I use an ORP probe. Mine is pretty stable. Rather than worrying about my exact ORP level, I only really monitor for major fluctuations as an indicator that something is out of whack.

Very small voltage leaks can really screw up an ORP reading. One time my ORP was swinging wildly and I couldn't figure it out. It ended up being a poorly grounded house circuit that (of all things) the damn grounding probe was plugged into.
 
I have been running Ozone off and on for about a year now.

I think the safe bet is to run lower 24/7 steady doses than a high dose being turned off and on by a controller.

The best method is to dose into your skimmer or a Ozone reactor then have the treated water exit into a bag of carbon.


Currently I have mine off. My water stays super clean with or with out it.

If your interested in a deal on a used one I've been thinking about selling mine...
 
I'm actually thinking about running ozone again. I haven't run it in about a year and when I did run it I got great results. I didn't use the controller to control the ozone, but I did use it to shut it off if it got to high. I ran it on a timer for about 30 minutes every 4 hours directly into my skimmer. I stopped using ozone when I went with the Zeovit method.. Since then I'm off zeovit and I want to give ozone a shot again. I'll probably get it hooked up this weekend.
 
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