What to buy first?

MTWiley

New member
I tried getting my open water cert about 5 years ago, but I had trouble equalizing my ears past 15 feet. I've lost alot of weight and made alot of changes in my life so I want to try again. When I took the class the first time, I bought all of the required personal gear: dive mask, snorkel, fins, booties, gloves, equipment bag, defog, and their "student pack"(mask protector).

I want to get certified again and was looking around. One of the local dive shops is running a special. If you buy your personal gear from them you can get the study materials, classroom lessons, pool dives, open water dives and the rentals for the rest of the gear that's required for the open water and pool dives for $199.

I talked to the guys at the shop and they told me that as long as I spent $350 to $400 on any of gear they have in stock they'd be happy to let me take the classes for the $199. I'm really wanting to take advantage of the sale that they're offering since the normal cost for the classes/dives is $599.

I'm trying to figure out what gear I should buy for the $350 -$400, do you guys have any suggestions?
 
Well, that's a pretty tough question. I know if I go anywhere and I can't have all of my own gear with me, I ask myself, what's the one or two things I just don't want to rent. I always come down to one answer: my regs. Your regulator (and I mean the 1st stage second stage, the whole shebang that attaches to your tank that you're going to be breathing from) is probably one of the most complicated pieces of equipment and the one that should be serviced and maintained regularly. In my personal opinion, no one is going to look after it better than I do. I've never been diving and looked over at a set of rental regs and wished I had it over my own.
Second would be your BC. Depending on your body shape, it may be hard to find a BC that fits nice. I've seen fairly decent BC's being rented but you may not fit the "standard".

I guess too, you may want to ask yourself, "How often am I going to be diving"? If it's only a couple times a year, it may not be worth storing, maintaining a bunch of gear. It's amazing how O-rings and seals dry out if not used.
Have you been to a deep pool or in open water and tried going down to 15' with just a snorkel? I'd be curious to know if I still had ear problems before I went and spent a bunch of money on gear.
Just food for thought, you've probably mulled them over in your head already.
 
If your going to be doing local diving, I'd go with a wetsuit suitable for water temps in the area. After all, who wants to wear a wetsuit that someone else peed in? Regs are another item I prefer to use my own, even traveling. Though things like regs and a BC I would normally advice trying a few to see what you like.

In regards equalizing, be sure your instructor knows you've had past issues. The first 30 feet are the hardest as it's they are also the greatest pressure change. Biggest tricks are equalize early and often...with equalizing on the surface just prior to ducking under often being helpful to those with problems equalizing, and often meaning every foot of descent. Odds are good such early and frequent equalizing will do the trick for you.
 
I tried getting my open water cert about 5 years ago, but I had trouble equalizing my ears past 15 feet. I've lost alot of weight and made alot of changes in my life so I want to try again. When I took the class the first time, I bought all of the required personal gear: dive mask, snorkel, fins, booties, gloves, equipment bag, defog, and their "student pack"(mask protector).

.................................

I'm trying to figure out what gear I should buy for the $350 -$400, do you guys have any suggestions?

do you still have the mask/fins/snorkel??

im assuming so. i would spend the money on your reg set and a good dive computer, in that order. this is really really iffy though, what level you decide take it to.

i dive every single weekend, so its not a big deal if i spend a bit more than the average person would. if you dive once or twice a year...meh, might want to hold back on getting anything too high end. all the new regulators are pretty dern good nowadays, stick to the majors. My buddy is the scubapro rep out here, he could dive on anything he wanted to...he dives with the lowest level regulator they have to offer, loves it.

If you're going to be serious about diving, atomic makes some great regulators, and the service interval is 2 years, vs. 1 year....

good luck with clearing....the more you dive, the quicker you get down....after a hundred or so dives...you'll sink like a rock :)

GL
C
 
My buddy is the scubapro rep out here, he could dive on anything he wanted to...he dives with the lowest level regulator they have to offer, loves it.

I'm still diving the regulator that I brought when I was first certified back in the early 80's. A basic Sherwood. Breaths just as good, and in some cases better, than any of the newer ones I've tried. Keep them clean and well cared for, and a regulator can last a lifetime :)
 
In regards equalizing, be sure your instructor knows you've had past issues. The first 30 feet are the hardest as it's they are also the greatest pressure change. Biggest tricks are equalize early and often...with equalizing on the surface just prior to ducking under often being helpful to those with problems equalizing, and often meaning every foot of descent. Odds are good such early and frequent equalizing will do the trick for you.

Exactly. Equalize BEFORE you feel that you need to.
 
One thing I'd suggest is that you wait until you actually get certified before you buy any gear if truth be told. What happens if you have trouble equalizing again or find you don't really enjoy it after all?

Lots of people gave some great advise especially about equalizing before, often, and letting the instructor or DM know before you hit the water. I have trouble with my ears and always let my dive partner know or DM if I'm on a charter. There are a lot of various tricks to equalize so try them all and you will find one that works. Other than that be careful and manage your accents and you should be ok.

I live in Northern California so dive in cold water in Monterey or up in Lake Tahoe. I made sure my gear could sustain that temperature. Not only regs but also my wet suit ( I don't dive dry"¦yet) has to be able to sustain 45 "“ 54 degree F water temperatures. If I want to dive, those are the conditions that are near.

Other than that rinse, rinse, and rinse some more after every dive weekend and/or trip. Don't be shy, rinse again. Use conditioner on the BC and wet suit, try not to pee inside, and do the annual or whatever is required maintenance / inspections. When you get your parts back you will be surprised to see the condition they are in. Just got my BC and regs back last weekend and everything was great and rust free "“ means I rinsed again 

Lastly - lots of sales around the web on dive gear. Same with local scuba shops. I wouldn't feel pressured buying anything other than what is necessary for the class. Beyond that see what you like, what your interests in future diving, and build a gear set around that.
 
Buy a regulator and computer. Using rental regs is kind of gross. Knowing how to use your own computer is one less thing to worry about.
 
I suggest using Docs Proplugs, it helps equalize and inner ear infection. I have been diving for about 8 years and I use them, it helps. As for equipment, I set a budget for myself so I started out by buying a wet suit first. Then I purchased a Reg, BCD after that a dive computer. Later on I purchased my own weights, tank because I was spending quite a bit of money renting these two items.
 
My Sherwood is my life. As said...I would and do take my Reg, BC, and wet suit. mask, fins are rentable if saving for travel is at a decision point.

Ears...I start blowing from my nose within inches of going under. No need to use your finger to plug your nose. The pressure of the mask is usually sufficient to induce equalizing and the off set face suction. I find that as said the first 30 feet is about it. On a wreck (often 60-80) one more equalizing is needed but thats about it. If you have not cleared once by 15 feet...well your probably much too late and need to ascend a moment to 5 feet. Equalizing while or when above water during the hour or so before the dive helps exercise the Eustachian tube tube inner ear canal and makes adjustment much easier(my experiences)
 
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