what to do about RTNing Acro

theROYSKIE

New member
small staghorn colony began RTNing yesterday morning. In the time it took me to prepare for a fragging( cut it above the RTN line and hope it hangs in there) it had spread up the stalk another 1/4-1/2"). I cut the colony into two well above the RTN line and placed them into my qt tank, 24 gal nano w the pc lights. Now this morning the two new colonies are just starting to RTN from the bottom up, again. I am going to try to frag once more ahead of the RTN line.
Q1) for those who have dealt w the stress and heartache of watching this happen to a beloved pet I ask what else can be done?
Q2) Should I be dipping the coral after I frag again even tho it is not a bacterial or protozoan infection? Eric Borneman in his book "Aquarium Corals" notes that some individuals have had luck w once or twice daily lugols solution dips but admits that it is no cure all and could possibly have reverse effects depending on the animal. (Iodine and potassium iodide)

The staghorn was one of the newest arrivals (14 days) and was seemingly healthy and is still showing full polyp extension and vibrant color except for the rising RTN

water parameters
main system (during late night cycle lights turn on in 5 hrs)
ph:8.1-.2
sal/sg: 35ppm/1.027
temp: 81.1 f
ammonia: undetectable
nitrite: undetectable
nitrate:5 ppm
phosphate:<.25ppm
Dkh:10
Cal:480-500
mag:1380ppm

qt system
ph:8.1
sal/sg:35ppm/1.027
temp:80.2 f
ammonia: undetectable
nitirite:undetectable
nitrate:<5ppm
phosphate:<.25
Dkh:12 -could the difference of main and qt be detrimental to recovery?
Cal:540 -high posssibly bc 2/3 of volume from main system & 1/3 fresh salt
water kent mix?
mag:1340-1360ppm

in the time it took to test both sytems (30 min) RTN has traveled almost an 1/8" up the 2 stag colonies

going to frag the separate branches and say my prayers.
pics up later. RTN is spreading and fast.
 
My stylo was STN'ing and I used a Lugols dip. It helped, I've since seen a full reversal of the symptoms. Good luck.
 
thanks for the reply mikey...when u dipped- when and how often? Did you qt the stylo while dipping? did u have to frag ahead of the RTN?
 
Salinity of 35 = SG 1.0160 while 53=1.0260. Check the SG accurately. I depend more on my salinity monitor with automatic temp compensation because my refractometer is not reliable anymore.
 
thanks for the reply mikey...when u dipped- when and how often? Did you qt the stylo while dipping? did u have to frag ahead of the RTN?

Dipped twice in one day, for 10 minutes each time. I used Seachem Coral Dip, I believe it is Lugols iodine plus some questionably effective vitamins.

Fwiw, I tried it on an ailing goniopora affected with brown jelly disease. It was only able to delay the inevitable.
 
Salinity of 35 = SG 1.0160 while 53=1.0260. Check the SG accurately. I depend more on my salinity monitor with automatic temp compensation because my refractometer is not reliable anymore.

"The Specific gravity of natural sea water with a salinity of 35 ppt is 1.027; this is a target to keep in mind for a reef aquarium" ( Erik H. Borneman, 2001. Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History. Pg 349.).

The Refractometer requires constant re-calibration with like temp fresh R.O. water set for zero. Mine is not reliable when the water is different temps or when i flake on calibration.
 
Dipped twice in one day, for 10 minutes each time. I used Seachem Coral Dip, I believe it is Lugols iodine plus some questionably effective vitamins.

I was leaning toward something like this regiment and since i have never experienced this first hand before i will go with twice daily, keep in qt. thanks 4 your input dude
 
"The Specific gravity of natural sea water with a salinity of 35 ppt is 1.027; this is a target to keep in mind for a reef aquarium" ( Erik H. Borneman, 2001. Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History. Pg 349.).

The Refractometer requires constant re-calibration with like temp fresh R.O. water set for zero. Mine is not reliable when the water is different temps or when i flake on calibration.
Sorry, I misquoted. Salinity 35 ppt = 1.026. But make sure your refractometer is accurate. i lost many sps from RTN due to high SG from inaccurate refractometer..
 
here are the pics... apologies on quality
 

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Sorry, I misquoted. Salinity 35 ppt = 1.026. But make sure your refractometer is accurate. i lost many sps from RTN due to high SG from inaccurate refractometer..

always thought that s/g went hand in hand with salinity.
if it is my refractometer how can i prove it? i guess i could cross reference it with the readings of other refractometers in use for other systems but whos to say what and where the control is for the experiment. Ive never heard of any decently built refractometer to be insufficient in keeping a stable sal/sg in a system.
I keep a small container of fresh water in my sump @ 80*f and every day i check and adjust if needed for fresh=0.0 that has always worked for me.
but i could be wrong. there are colonies of acro in the main system that have yet to display any signs of RTN and have noted growth and color but that could all change.
what type of refractometer did u find to be faulty?
 
I use calibration fluid to test my refracto(like $10 marine depot)...checking against r/o water at zero is the less effective way, though I am just taking the word of those smarter than I am. When a colony starts rtn I cut frag just in case of rtn. I did this with a chips acro that got stung, and I cut the tips that were three inches away from the rtn. Well within two days the colony was gone and the frag had rtn'd...I just left the frag since it was out of sight for the most part, and it started all white(I thought it was dead) and it slowly regained color and now is a healthy frag again...so I guess what I am saying is don't give up just because it looks bad
 
thanks buckeye. it has been 4 hours since i fragged the two into many and so far no RTN is visible. i will look into the calibrating fluid.
 
I test my salinity/sg daily because it can be affected from evaporation and from skimming heavily. I use that calibration fluid to calibrate my refractometer every single time i use it. I have to turn the screw and adjust it almost every time.For some reason just putting it down in the drawer i keep it can effect the readings. I think that its a good habit to calibrate the refractometer every time you are going to use it to make sure everything is on point it only takes about 1 minute and if you have alot of expensive livestocks its definitely worth the minute :) .

EDIT: BTW the RO water is not really a good way to calibrate as buckeyetodd says i have tested mine back and forth and have always had it be off when using the RO.
 
thanks Tom. when u would try to calibrate w ro water what would the results b compared to the cal fluid? i plan on picking some up soon but will have to do w ro until it ships.

however i did find that a new arrival monti that was losing tissue is covered in aptasia. only saw the little devils this morning. reaction to an aptasia sting could b the reason y the monti and staghorn are going thru RTN.

u can be sure I had a conversation about this with my supplier.
 
Anyone feel that the temp could have any thing to do with it?
Is it stable at 81f and does it fluctuate more than 4 degrees throughout the day?

Unfortunately I had pretty good luck fragging a RTNing piece, only problem with this is if you start fresh with a 1" frag and something else gets out of whack there is a great chance it won't have time to rebound and it to will go up in smoke.
 
Anyone feel that the temp could have any thing to do with it?
Is it stable at 81f and does it fluctuate more than 4 degrees throughout the day?

Unfortunately I had pretty good luck fragging a RTNing piece, only problem with this is if you start fresh with a 1" frag and something else gets out of whack there is a great chance it won't have time to rebound and it to will go up in smoke.

Yes...temp fluctuation....salinity fluctuation...alk and cal only through water changes...could be made into a much more automated and stable system for better results with sps IMO
 
my system is cooled w a chiller 1/5 hp artica and heated w heaters. fluctuates from 80.0-82.0 *f maximum swing but on a daily swing about 80.5-81.5*f is what i have average in my daily system log. running a cal reactor w as constant levels of cal, alk, mag as i can get. if my salt is off by a bit from not claibrating w the cal fluid then it is a constant off the mark level. testing all levels twice weekly, sal/sg multiple daily.
 
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