What's your day lighting?

Expensive Sushi

New member
Do you have your actinics on when your whites are on?

If yes, why? Is it because you like how it looks or because it's good for your corals or both. I just turned my whites on without the actinics for the first time. I kinda like the change to the look.
 
i run my 37g actinics all day with the 10k mh.i dont know if the corals grow better or not,but i like the look it gives so i do it.i have my new 10k mhs running the 90 with no actinics on yet but cant wait to see the colors when they are on.i can see some of my sps look different(not as good) from my 37 in the 90 with no actinics.also that yellow tang is ready to sell if you still want it.
 
Actinics are just for the benefit of our eyes. I think some big outfits that sell aquacultured corals use 6500k lights exclusively. If I didn't work from home I'd probably switch mine off during the day just to prolong the bulb life ;-)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9217350#post9217350 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by alizarin
Actinics are just for the benefit of our eyes. I think some big outfits that sell aquacultured corals use 6500k lights exclusively. If I didn't work from home I'd probably switch mine off during the day just to prolong the bulb life ;-)

alizarin, IMHO you are mistaken, blue light (420-490 nm) has better penetration through water and can go as deep as 250 m. Most zooxanthellae have evolved to absorb light best in the 420 nm to 490nm (the blue range). This is why we use Actinic 03-type bulbs and this has led to development of bulbs that emit light primarily at this peak. It only goes to prove the the actinics are more for the corals than our viewing pleasure.

Most people don't like the look of 6500k bulbs because the tend to be too yellow and prefer the look of 10000 to 14000K bulbs. Unfortunately most of those bulbs have their light peak in only the 420nm range and are missing out on the rest of the usable spectrum.

If you look at the spectral chart of the most popular 6500k MH bulb (Iwasaki 250 Watt MH which has been the mainstay in coral farming for well over 10 years)
fig10-iwasaki6500K.gif


Notice there is are significant spikes in the 420nm, 440nm, 460nm and the 490nm range, this is the complete usable spectrum with more total light than your average 10000K MH bulb.
fig1-AB10K.gif


Notice there is a significant spike in only the 420nm range, this is only part of the usable spectrum, if you added all the points on both charts between 420-490 nm the total light from the 6500k would far exceed that of the 10000K MH bulb.

In MHO I would say to use those actinics so that our corals get the most usable light. Don't turn off the actinic s because they don't look as bright as the 10000k.
 
I'm not a scientist but think of it this way. The sun temp is around 5500K (not temp like heat, but spectrum), about the same temp as the day light lamps, but by the time the light/energy gets to the corals, its gets filtered (Atmosphere, pollution, water). So not all of the 5500K, gets to the corals that is why we supplement with Blue/Actinic.
 
plc001,

Thats close because of all the light that gets filtered out ( IR R O Y G B I V and UV ), the zooxanthellae have evolved to use the light they get the most of (the Blue 420-490nm ) we have the technology to give them more so we do by adding actinic supplimentation so they grow. :)
 
Notice at the end of the scale 750nm + thats non-visible light (UV) there is still quite a lot of light there. thats why we need to shield our lights so we don't burn our retinas from looking in the tank with the top up (or so we don't get a sun burn :))
 
Is it true that is more expensive to turn off and on the actinics than to leave them on all day?
 
Hi Ah64av8tor =)

I've only been reading about lights for the last year or two but this is how I understood it all - what do you think?

As I understood it true actinics put out a meager amount of photosyntheticly active light (compared to your other lights) that actually reaches the zooanthelle. I was under the impression that zooanthelle use several peaks of light, the strongest are 420nm (blue) and 670nm (orange) and since it takes twice as many watts to make a lumen of blue than it does orange, the orange is much more usable per watt.

Bob Fenner who wrote "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" said "The functionality of aquarium 'actinics' is minimal" here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm

When I went from 20k to 14k my coral growth improved. 14k to 10k it improved allot. When I added actinics to the 10k it didn't really do much except in the shadows since the 10k is a halide and is more directional than the T5s and one of the T5s is a "blue plus".

So I guess my position was that there's some benefit but not so much you'd see a change in your corals if you turned them off.
 
First I need to correct my self UV is 10nm to 400nm and IR is 700nm to 1mm. Sorry I had them swapped. the precautions still apply.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9224628#post9224628 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by alizarin
Hi Ah64av8tor =)

As I understood it true actinics put out a meager amount of photosyntheticly active light (compared to your other lights) that actually reaches the zooanthelle. I was under the impression that zooanthelle use several peaks of light, the strongest are 420nm (blue) and 670nm (orange) and since it takes twice as many watts to make a lumen of blue than it does orange, the orange is much more usable per watt.

That makes a little sense at the surface or on land, the orange will have almost twice the par per watt, but the penetration through water is almost half at 1meter and diminishes exponentially with depth to almost 0 at 10 meters so its a wash.

When I went from 20k to 14k my coral growth improved. 14k to 10k it improved allot. When I added actinics to the 10k it didn't really do much except in the shadows since the 10k is a halide and is more directional than the T5s and one of the T5s is a "blue plus".

And if you went to a 6500k you would have seen even better growth only with out the color, you need the actinic supplementation too and Ill quote Bob Fenner
More blue really does help out with coral color. It excites and stimulates the corals to produce more pigments.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9224628#post9224628 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by alizarin So I guess my position was that there's some benefit but not so much you'd see a change in your corals if you turned them off.

If you did a test you would find in the long run the corals without actinic supplementation would shift towards brown.

Bob Fenner who wrote "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" said "The functionality of aquarium 'actinics' is minimal"

There are a few errors on the part of Bob Fenner and a few missunderstandings on your part also.
When asked
I was wondering which bulbs would give the aquarium a more blue color? 420? 460?
his reply was
The 420s likely

The visible blue light has a wavelength of about 475 nm, indigo light has a wavelength of about 445 nm and violet light has a wavelength of about 400 nm. So It would stand to reason that 420 would give more of a purple tint and 460 would give more of a light blue.

I could pick this apart but there is no need to. Neither Anthony Calfo or Bob Fenner has or will say there is no need for actinic supplementation, but would say under certain situations it might not necessary.

For several years I have farmed corals under 6500k Iwasaki 250 Watt MH and always had super growth, but before I could sell or trade them I would have to color them up with actinic supplementation. I learned my lesson early and always use actinics with the daylight bulbs for good growth and color.
 
Okay... I didn't realize they affected pigment production.... interesting.

Thanks for setting me straight =)
 
It was fun for me to re-look the info, now I'm going to have to get hopping on the light rack for my prop tank.

It will have 2 X 6500k Iwasaki 250 Watt MH 2 X T5 actinic and 2 X T5 10000k over a 10" tall 24' deep 48" long 40 gal tank. Think its enough?
 
You won't brown out the coral but you might brown out your neighborhood ;-)

You're going to have some happy fast growing corals!
 
Ah64av8tor is very accurate with his facts. I've been studying Dr. Sanjay for a couple of months in preparation for assembling my lighting. The violet/blue spectrum is extremely important and bulb/ballast combinations that produce lots of light in this spectrum have much higher photsynthetically active radiation.
 
Thanks to all -
You all, make reef keeping much less time consuming for me to research and gives me more time to enjoy the fish/corals and provide a good home for them.

THANKS AGAIN!
 
Mike I try. It only comes from lots of experience in doing it wrong and starting over.:)

PAR(photsynthetically active radiation) is key, too many people get tied up in watts, lux and lumens.

Give them something they can use!

Sushi, You cant beat a good book on reef keeping, so don't stop reading!
 
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