not really, i'll look into a light to mount up on there...and put some of the cheato in there with the LR rubble. now...here is the million dollar question...what does that do, and how does it bennefit my tank!?! if i've been told correctly it filters the stuff out that the bad algea needs to live...is this correct?
when coral dies.....
- Thread starter azhunter
- Start date
fishaholic911
New member
That is everyone's goal just remember to take it slow. Any adjustments made should not be drastic.
fishaholic911
New member
That is correct. You do not need to put the cheato in asap just taking out the bio balls and replacing it with live rock will help. Now how is your water flow?
fishaholic911
New member
I do not know if you have been told but these small tank can be a little tricky. Things change faster i.e. water temp, salinity, nitrates, phosphates,ph.
fishaholic911
New member
How much live rock do you have in the tank?
yeah, ive been told (after the fact) that the smaller tanks are a little harder to keep than the bigger ones!
the water flow seems to be ok, i have one "powerhead" (i think thats what it is) in the upper corner. i dont know what the output is or how to gauge the water flow, but judging from the way the coral and green hair algea moves around it seems to be moving pretty well...i'll try and take a picture and post it so you can get an idea of what i have. i know almost as much about computers as i do about reef tanks!!!!
the water flow seems to be ok, i have one "powerhead" (i think thats what it is) in the upper corner. i dont know what the output is or how to gauge the water flow, but judging from the way the coral and green hair algea moves around it seems to be moving pretty well...i'll try and take a picture and post it so you can get an idea of what i have. i know almost as much about computers as i do about reef tanks!!!!
fishaholic911
New member
Posting pic read this
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=531326
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=531326
fishaholic911
New member
It has been nice talking to you but I have to got to bed. There alot of smart people on this forum who will also give you excellent advise. Good luck and just hang in there it will be worth it but just a fair warning this hobby is more addicting than crack!
azrednex
New member
Your tank looks pretty good to me for 2 months old.
I have a 5 month old QT (quarintine tank) with more diatoms and cyano (pest algea) than that !
I have some low cost changes for you that will probably make a dif
#1 take out the bioballs, and replace with chunks of LR or leave it empy for now, The reason for this is that the bioballs do have alot of suface area(lots of surface area means lots of habitat for your bad crud eating bacteria),but not enough for the lack of turbulance they create(turbulance keeps crud in suspension so that the good bacteria can change it into not so bad crud,also suspended crud gets W/C'ed (water changed) out).
#2 You have no vegetarian fish so if you want put the cheato in the display, that way it will get plenty of light, just remember that if it takes off and get huge to keep trimming it back so that it doesn't block too much light form the other tank critters. Don't buy cheato, post that you need some, someone will donate some or sell it very cheap.
#3 make an effort to learn about your system, the details are what matters when you are trying to get help from someone on the internet, this could mean even the particular brand of lamp you are using in your lights. Useful bits of info are the, brand and wattage of your lamps and the brand and LPH (liter per hour) or GPH (gallon per hour) of your pumps the model # usually gives you a clue to this.
#4 buy a lighting timer or 2, hook them up so that you don't have to worry about turning on an off your lights, each timer will cost about $8(well worth it IMO (in my opinion))
This is my $.02
I have a 5 month old QT (quarintine tank) with more diatoms and cyano (pest algea) than that !
I have some low cost changes for you that will probably make a dif
#1 take out the bioballs, and replace with chunks of LR or leave it empy for now, The reason for this is that the bioballs do have alot of suface area(lots of surface area means lots of habitat for your bad crud eating bacteria),but not enough for the lack of turbulance they create(turbulance keeps crud in suspension so that the good bacteria can change it into not so bad crud,also suspended crud gets W/C'ed (water changed) out).
#2 You have no vegetarian fish so if you want put the cheato in the display, that way it will get plenty of light, just remember that if it takes off and get huge to keep trimming it back so that it doesn't block too much light form the other tank critters. Don't buy cheato, post that you need some, someone will donate some or sell it very cheap.
#3 make an effort to learn about your system, the details are what matters when you are trying to get help from someone on the internet, this could mean even the particular brand of lamp you are using in your lights. Useful bits of info are the, brand and wattage of your lamps and the brand and LPH (liter per hour) or GPH (gallon per hour) of your pumps the model # usually gives you a clue to this.
#4 buy a lighting timer or 2, hook them up so that you don't have to worry about turning on an off your lights, each timer will cost about $8(well worth it IMO (in my opinion))
This is my $.02
azrednex
New member
also his may help you learn internet speak 
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=993326&highlight=forum+language
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=993326&highlight=forum+language
fishaholic911
New member
I agree with all of the above. Your tank looks great for its age you are on the right track. I had the same problem when I started out I would ask ? and get 10 different answers and I found this forum to be the most helpful. Like I said before people here are very knowledgable.
I have not heard any mention of temperature. May not be an issue, those little bio cubes are usually pretty good at dissapating excess heat but with the lights running all day this may be a problem. Also, just be aware that a new tank like this may have a lot of issues in the first few months. Personally (and understandably, we all did it) I think you jumped the gun adding some of those corals so soon, before the tank had a chance not only too cycle but get established and before you had practice at holding the parameters of a smaller tank within acceptable levels. I would consider having it as a swim tank for your clown for few months and getting too learn the ropes before adding anything else. Just please be patient, things will smooth out if you stay with it and try too slow it down a bit. Have you read any books about aquariums? For starters I would recommend The Coscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner. Its basic information, certainly not for advanced aquarist but its a good start.
Doglover_50
Premium Member
Not sure if that is a JBJ Nano tank. That's what I have, no bioballs. In the rear compartments, I have filter floss for mechanical filtation in compartment 1; live rock rubble up to the water line in compartment 2; and carbon in the 3rd compartment.
I also keep som chaeto algae in the tank itself for more filtration, clip it back as needed.
--In addition to temperature noted above, I don't think PH and dkh are mentioned. Though they are not perfect, the 5 in 1 test strips will give you a decent idea about these. Finally, at some point, you may want to think about measuring calcium--probably not an issue for the moment if you are doing regular water changes using a good salt.
Good luck!
I also keep som chaeto algae in the tank itself for more filtration, clip it back as needed.
--In addition to temperature noted above, I don't think PH and dkh are mentioned. Though they are not perfect, the 5 in 1 test strips will give you a decent idea about these. Finally, at some point, you may want to think about measuring calcium--probably not an issue for the moment if you are doing regular water changes using a good salt.
Good luck!
first thanks for the responses and the help!
ok, as for lighting i have one 10k 36w and an actinic 36w both by corallife, however, i found a kit on nanotuners.com today to add more lighting so i may get that.
i'm not sure what my PH is, and i dont know what dkh stands for so i dont know what that is either.
the tank is a ocianic bio cube and it has three chambers in the back, first is the filter which has a mesh floss type upper and what might be carbon behind that, then the water flows to the second chamber (bio balls) then through a sponge and into the third chamber where the pump is and it pumps it back into the tank. the pump is an ocianic submersible pump rated at 243gph.
the temp ranges from about 77 to 81 depending on what time of day it is and how long the lights have been on. i use only RO water and i'm using tropic marine salt. the only supplements im using are an "ion and buffer system in proper concentration for nano reefs" (part A and B).
i was unable to attend the frag meeting today as i played (horribly) in an improptu golf tournament, hope to see you all at the next one.
rednex, i'll send you a PM about the books as soon as i figure out how to send a PM!
ok, as for lighting i have one 10k 36w and an actinic 36w both by corallife, however, i found a kit on nanotuners.com today to add more lighting so i may get that.
i'm not sure what my PH is, and i dont know what dkh stands for so i dont know what that is either.
the tank is a ocianic bio cube and it has three chambers in the back, first is the filter which has a mesh floss type upper and what might be carbon behind that, then the water flows to the second chamber (bio balls) then through a sponge and into the third chamber where the pump is and it pumps it back into the tank. the pump is an ocianic submersible pump rated at 243gph.
the temp ranges from about 77 to 81 depending on what time of day it is and how long the lights have been on. i use only RO water and i'm using tropic marine salt. the only supplements im using are an "ion and buffer system in proper concentration for nano reefs" (part A and B).
i was unable to attend the frag meeting today as i played (horribly) in an improptu golf tournament, hope to see you all at the next one.
rednex, i'll send you a PM about the books as soon as i figure out how to send a PM!
Doglover_50
Premium Member
You can pick up the 5 in 1 test sticks for just a few bucks at Petsmart. They are far from perfect but good for starter info., and cheap! Sorry--alkalinity (dKH). Here are some very general guidelines I just pulled off liveaquaria.com for saltwater parameters. http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general.cfm?general_pagesid=352
There are a zillion things to learn and many resources in starting a reef tank. One pretty good online resource for starters is the www.peteducation.com site of Dr. Foster and Smith. Check out the marine aquarium links there for more info. on water parameters.
There are a zillion things to learn and many resources in starting a reef tank. One pretty good online resource for starters is the www.peteducation.com site of Dr. Foster and Smith. Check out the marine aquarium links there for more info. on water parameters.
