which denitrator? i need your input

mmotown

Active member
guys i have decided to buy a denitrator. marine depot has the korallin 1302 and the option to use bill me later. midwest has a 120 unconditional money back guarantee. aren't both reactors the same with different names? which would u go with? thanks for helping a brotha out :)
 
dont get a denitrator

dont get a denitrator

mmotown:

I have used a few denitrators and I can say that while they all work (some better than others) I would consider different alternatives for reducing your nitrates... denitrators are generally hard to dial in and 9/10 times require SO MUCH maintenance that they are simply not practical for most aquariums.

I tryed 3 different denitrators before I gave up and tryed vodka dosing.

read this article

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

buy yourself a good dosing pump and simply dose the vodka and watch your nitrates disappear!

regards,

Estefano
 
I totally have to disagree with the above. Vodka dosing is more of a pain in the butt then the denitrator. I have tried both methods. I gave up on the vodka when I was up to 5ml a day without noticing any positives. I currently run a denitrator on both of my tanks. I do agree they are a pain to get dialed in but when you do they are great. Every 2-3 months I take the sulfur and arogonite out and clean it with the tank water. It is really no big deal.

Now as far as brand. I have a person in Florida that makes them. They are not fancy like the names you mentioned but they work great at half the price. If you want contact info send me a PM. BILL
 
I tried the vodka dosing and I killed about all of my sps corals. I was up to 5ml a day myself. On top of that I am always on top of my tank husbandry. I am at my wits end trying to control N03 in my tank. I am due for a water change this week. I do a water change every two weeks. Last week when I tested for N03 I was at 50ppm per Salifert. Yeah it may be a pain for the denitrator to get dialed in properly but look at those who have had success with this. Same with the vodka dosing. It didn't work for me but for others it has and it was cheap. I can't and won't go back to the vodka dosing.
 
A properly setup remote deep sand bed will remove nitrates.

Cheap and ez.

I wont set a tank up without one.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14370418#post14370418 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefbox
A properly setup remote deep sand bed will remove nitrates.

Cheap and ez.

I wont set a tank up without one.

can't do it in my house. My aquarium is in my formal living area
 
5ml/day and no decrease in nitrate....I think something is off with either your dosing, testing or b/c of inefficient skimming
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14371511#post14371511 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mmotown
can't do it in my house. My aquarium is in my formal living area

LOL

that area is now a "Formal Aqurium Area"

i dont have enough space under my tank for everything so i have to keep a nearby cabinet and my top off res in the open. its difficult to balance the tank needs and what is "acceptaible" as visivible equiptment. im at teh point were i would almost rather have my tank in a less "foraml area so that i could utilize all of the equiptment i really need to run. (larger sump, larger fuge, calcium reactor, top off res. ECT..)
 
denitrators

denitrators

Build you own it is way cheaper. I'm currently building my 4th unit. Yes it takes time to dial it in but once it is up and running it is a no brainer. I'm using RO filter cannisters with DI resins canisters and a good needle valve to control the output.

Harpo 1966
 
I have a large well fed system. Even with 2 large skimmers, a large remote dsb(which after 2 1/2 months has done next to nothing) and several macroalgae refugia, nitrates won't stay down.

The sulfur denitrator works. It is a bit tedious to set up and requires at least dally degassing for the first few weeks as the bacterial colonies in it develop but once you get a good flow going of 0 nitrate water you can pretty much leave it alone. I use one I built following the diy thread on them and the reefkeeping magazine atrticle. One of the best approaches to NO3 reduction in my opinion.

I also dose small amounts of vodka and while it helps with PO4 it doesn't do very much for nitrate in my system either.
 
Guys I ordered a korallin denitrator. I am going to use this approach and make some major changes in my tank. Do you run a fuge and the denitrator or just one?
 
I have run a midwest for almost five years now. Some initial steps need to be taken that take a little thought and fineese and once it is running at a rate according to your nitrate production it is almost maintenance free. The trick in the beginning is to start with a real slow rate and let the unit build up the bacteria to eat up the nitrates, about 1 drop per second. Once your output tests at zero nitrates, increase it slow at only one more drop per second and leave it there until it zeros out again. At first when you test the output the nitrates will show off the charts, mainly due to the unit also producing nitrite as it cycles, skewing the test results. Be patient and let the unit do its work (cycle) and all will be fine. Most people have issues because they try to get it up and working too rapidly. They also tend to cycle better with lower tank nitrates opposed to high nitrates, re 20ppm vs 80ppm. What are your tank nitrates now??

I just rinsed my sulphur and changed the crushed coral media last week after running it for about 16 months straight. Just check your drip rate and watch the in and out lines as they can tend to fill will algae and reduce the flow rate. Also not sure about the Korallin unit but Midwest uses john guest quick connects for these lines, and the tubing is different then regular airline tubing, so if they are the same make sure you replace it with the right stuff or you will have a drip leak at the tubing/valve connection.

PM me when you have the unit if you have questions, I will try to help.
 
It would help things if you could do a few water changes in larger quantities just prior to getting the unit and setting it up. My NO3 was around 30-40 ppm when I first started years ago and it went ok. Some people who reported ppm's of 70-80 had trouble with the unit starting to cycle or taking a long time to stabilize between increasing drip rates. It seemed that even at one drip per second increase at higher nitrates it was alot of work for the unit to build bacteria to handle the new load. The midwest units sulphur was seeded with a powder bacteria to help the units start the process.
 
Great. Got your PM. Will take the advice. Also I will be posting another thread in relation to what I am going to do with my sand bed etc....
 
I use a Fluidized bed filter with PURA Nitratelock media. It keeps my nitrates at zero and it is supposed to be effective up to 24 months, with a recharge.
 
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