Which route to go

[ninjastar310]

Yeah it will dissipate with some time, but frankly I would want to get the filter/cycle under control before starting a treatment.

The ammonia badge right now is at .5 or one above safe........The goldheaded goby didnt make it and the dimond baack goby at night tries to make a run but cant since theirs a cover...........

Finally put sand it the hovens wrasse finally calmed down but the dimond goby is worrying me and the orange spotted rabbit fish hasnt went back to its normal colors yet..

 

[ninjastar310]

It's not "live" sand that is a problem, it's the carbonate which will absorb copper ions.

The classic treatment uses copper sulphate at 0.15ppm. The other flavors are copper bound into an organic molecule, which is less toxic (thus allowing/needing a higher concentration) and stays in solution better. Note that some copper test kits don't work with these flavors.

Paraguard is not copper and I doubt it works reliably.

Why do you think Paraguard wouldnt work and also how would I treat the tank if I have a wrasse in it or any other fish for the near future that are sensitive to copper?

Yeah it will dissipate with some time, but frankly I would want to get the filter/cycle under control before starting a treatment.

Added a bottle of Biospira so hopfully it helps out? Is .05ppm bad to start doing treatment.....As for filtration now, it has a marineland 350. 40gal rated sponge and also a 75gal rated sponge.

 

[ninjastar310]

Does dosing stressguard help before dosing??

 

[SAT]

Why do you think Paraguard wouldnt work and also how would I treat the tank if I have a wrasse in it or any other fish for the near future that are sensitive to copper?

There are exactly four treatments that are generally accepted to be safe and effective: copper, hyposalinity, tank transfer, and chloroquine. All these methods have downsides. I use TTM.

 

[ninjastar310]

There are exactly four treatments that are generally accepted to be safe and effective: copper, hyposalinity, tank transfer, and chloroquine. All these methods have downsides. I use TTM.

I would use the TTM but I dont have a second tank thats that big to do so. But as for using copper with copper sensitive fish, would paraguard work vs using cucupine , ich x,copper safe?? And if I dose it slowly which one would work the best??

 

[lagatbezan]

Are there any symptoms that you are seeing on any of the fish that are still alive or died? white spots, skin peeling, head shaking, scratching/flashing, white stringy poop, cloudy eyes...ect?
From what I understand you suspect that some of the fish died from ich and brook.
The best treatment for brook is a couple of formalin baths over a several day period where the fish is transferred to a new sterile tank after each bath. Only the fish gets transferred and no equipment.
For ich, there are 4 known treatments that are known to work like mentioned before:
TTM
Copper
CP
Hypo.
wrasses seem to be sensitive to CP to that would be out.
TTM is great if you are sure its ich and not velvet.
I think your best bet would be copper (I would use chelated copper like Coppersafe for the fish list you have left).
you want to add it slowly bringing the concentration up over 3-5 days to the therapeutic level. the concentration you want for coppersafe is 2ml/g. Measure how much water is in the qt and apply the right amount of copper. don't go by how many gallon the tank is rated for. for example 30g tank usually holds about 28-29g and not 30g. you want to keep this concentration for 30 days. No Prime or ammonia reducers can be used with copper! you will have to do water changes and the new water should be premixed with the correct copper concentration.
you can move them out of copper after 14 days IF you have another tank thats been setup and been at least 10' away with new water and that the threputic level has been sustained for the whole 14 day duration.. Again only the fish should be transferred with no equipment or minimal water to avoid cross contamination. then observe for 4 weeks or while your tank goes fallow.
Copper will treat for ich and velvet.
No one really knows whats in Paraguard so its success has not been verified. same with copper safe and ich x. They don't really work 100%.
Display needs to be fish-less for a minimum of 76 days and that will ensure eradication of brook, velvet and ich. Make sure no cross contamination occurs between your qt and display ever.

 

[ninjastar310]

Are there any symptoms that you are seeing on any of the fish that are still alive or died? white spots, skin peeling, head shaking, scratching/flashing, white stringy poop, cloudy eyes...ect?
From what I understand you suspect that some of the fish died from ich and brook.
The best treatment for brook is a couple of formalin baths over a several day period where the fish is transferred to a new sterile tank after each bath. Only the fish gets transferred and no equipment.
For ich, there are 4 known treatments that are known to work like mentioned before:
TTM
Copper
CP
Hypo.
wrasses seem to be sensitive to CP to that would be out.
TTM is great if you are sure its ich and not velvet.
I think your best bet would be copper (I would use chelated copper like Coppersafe for the fish list you have left).
you want to add it slowly bringing the concentration up over 3-5 days to the therapeutic level. the concentration you want for coppersafe is 2ml/g. Measure how much water is in the qt and apply the right amount of copper. don't go by how many gallon the tank is rated for. for example 30g tank usually holds about 28-29g and not 30g. you want to keep this concentration for 30 days. No Prime or ammonia reducers can be used with copper! you will have to do water changes and the new water should be premixed with the correct copper concentration.
you can move them out of copper after 14 days IF you have another tank thats been setup and been at least 10' away with new water and that the threputic level has been sustained for the whole 14 day duration.. Again only the fish should be transferred with no equipment or minimal water to avoid cross contamination. then observe for 4 weeks or while your tank goes fallow.
Copper will treat for ich and velvet.
No one really knows whats in Paraguard so its success has not been verified. same with copper safe and ich x. They don't really work 100%.
Display needs to be fish-less for a minimum of 76 days and that will ensure eradication of brook, velvet and ich. Make sure no cross contamination occurs between your qt and display ever.

The cardinal has a scaled peeled back and one eye that is cloudy. I was thinking running prazipro for 2 weeks. Then treat with paragard for 2 weeks and then run copper for a month to give me the 2 month time frame for the tank to be fallow. And of course run carbon in between to clear out the meds

I would love to due the TTM but just have room for another 29gal since it is in my room and my DT is in the Dinning area. I just have basically all the meds just dont know which one is best to use. Paraguard, copper safe, ich x, prazipro, malche green, and cupcurpine.

 

[lagatbezan]

is there any red lesions on the cardinal where the scales are peeled?
a 5 min fresh water dip will confirm if you are dealing with flukes or not. if you have flukes you will need to treat with prazi for 2-3 rounds 5-7 days a part with partial water changes in between. Prazipro has tendency of lowering the oxygen levels in the tank so make sure to put a airstone or a powerhead facing the surface for good oxygen exchange.
Then you can do 30 days in cupramine. raise it slowly over 3-5 day period and test daily to make sure the levels are constant and stay in therapeutic level.
here is a great video on fw dip:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Po_dvEr5DL0" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[ninjastar310]

is there any red lesions on the cardinal where the scales are peeled?

No red lesions but lack of appetite, that on scale peeled and on the same side his eyes are cloudy

 

[SAT]

For copper sensitive fish I would use hyposalinity or chloroquine (or both).

 

[ninjastar310]

I'm pretty sure that I have brook in my tank and Ive been dosing ich x daily and dosed copper safe over 4 days to 1-2ppm. Everyone is eating good and doing great but the orange spot rabbit fish started to develop minior white spots on him and the cardinal who hasnt been eatting has been moving but has yet to be able to catch food though.

-Now my question is how long should I dose ich x aka formulin?

The reason why I think its brook is because I bought 2 clowns and within a couple days the male was found on the filter and then the next day the female develop what look like massive ich in the morning and then when I got home she was gone. The clowns were doing good and eating and then bam.