Who can drill?

tcamos

Reef, Crustacean, Puffers
I know this question has been asked a thousand times but I'm going to ask it again since all those other times I wasn't wanting to do it myself.

I'm looking to have a hole drilled in the end of two tanks. I'm hoping this can be done do begin with. They are your standard 20 gallon long tanks.

What I want to do is drill a hole in the end of each and connect them with a bulkhead and pipe. Since the 40 gallon long which I had planed on was revealed by a clever reefer to be too tall I figured two 20 longs will work and allow me a nice area for a fuge as well as whatever else I wish.

So...who can do this? Is there a glass shop or aquarist around that can?

Thanks!
 
That was my initial plan for my 55g but using two 10g tanks. Then I started thinking about stress if the tanks are not lined up precisely. So I was going to use a flexible line between, but that was causing the tanks to get farther apart.

What I ended up doing is drilling one tank and building a small stand to raise it 5 inches and then just used pvc to drain it into the sump.

Sump&Fuge3.jpg
 
Prugs, I don't have the bulkheads yet but I was planning on using as large and I could.

Bob, I had thought of that idea as well but I really want it short so I can get into it and clean etc. They are 12.25 inches high and if I elevate it worry about that.

As far as stress on the tank I feel like I can deal with that. My plan is to put them in place before connecting them to each other so I can really align them etc. I do like how your set up functions though, that's a great way to do it.
 
What would the GPH be on the 1.5 inch? As I ponder this I am wondering if a single pipe will be large enough. My tank has two drains that go into the sump and two pumps that pump it out again. I have the megaflow accessory kit on each which is a 1" drain. I don't think they are flowing at max but I don't want to risk overflowing the sump either.
 
You don't want a very heavy flow through the refugium. How much flow would you normally use with a 20g as a display?

I would tee off one of the drains and put a ball valve in-line to control flow. put you connecting pipe as high as you can and keep the refugium level higher then the return section it drains into.

Bob
 
Fro the fuge true but what my main concern is would be the water comes into the first tank (sump) at a certain rate but can't get from the frist sump to the second at the same rate and so backs up and overflows.
 
I don't think I am following your plans.

Here is how I imagine doing it.

One 20g will be the sump with return. This tank will be divided into 2 sections, 1 for the skimmer and one for the return pump. The level in the return pump section is lower then the skimmer section. Both drains go into the skimmer section.

The other 20g is a refugium. A tee in one of the drain lines runs to the refugium. This line has a ball valve to control flow.

The two bulk heads are connected so that the refugium drains into the return pump section.

This way your sump is handling everything and the refugium is kind of a side street that goes to the quickie mart.

Bob
 
Ahhhhhhhhh! :thumbsup:

That is NOT how I was thinking. I was thinking that the drain would be in the first and the return in the second so it would pull water through and out again.

As I have mentioned MANY times on here I am not a DIY kind of guy so I tend to think very simply.

Would it be a horrible trouble for you to draw and post a diagram of your design? I am pretty sure it's perfect (way better than mine) but need to visualize how the water gets back to the tank.
 
Bobs idea is spot on. The main concern with your idea chad is that bulkhead won't flow the same way horizontally as it will vertically. The amount of water you would need to flow what a 1.5" bulkhead can do will be very different in this situation unless your water height in the first tank will always be above the bulkhead. with that amount of flow the fuge will be a waste due to the high low and will just be added water volume vs. a slow flow like you want. Clearly your skimmer section needs to maintain a standard height and using a T is the way to go.
 
Or this would work but you will have to dial back your return a bit to avoid too much flow through the fuge.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1365231610.810258.jpg
 
dub, your drawing is what I had planned but as you point out Bob's idea is spot on.

By setting the fuge drain valve I can control how much water goes into it and drains out of it which means I can keep the level of flow through it low as desired.

Thanks guys!

Now to get the holes done.
 
dub, your drawing is what I had planned but as you point out Bob's idea is spot on.

By setting the fuge drain valve I can control how much water goes into it and drains out of it which means I can keep the level of flow through it low as desired.

Thanks guys!

Now to get the holes done.

Bobs will work but I see a design flaw in the return chamber. With the water coming from the fuge and dropping into the return chamber, you will have an ungodly amount of micro bubbles returning to the display.
 
Bobs will work but I see a design flaw in the return chamber. With the water coming from the fuge and dropping into the return chamber, you will have an ungodly amount of micro bubbles returning to the display.

Very easy to fix. Look at the pic above of my sump and refugium. Add a pipe and have it enter the return area at an angle below the water level. Micro bubbles get trapped in the tube and by putting it at an angle it reduces the splash factor.

Bob
 
I do see what you mean with the bubbles but I can see a way around that. Dubs is the design I had in mind when I started but Bob's strikes me as one that will better manage my flow. That was my big issue with how I was planning on doing it. Running the second drain to the fuge really allows me to control that area of the sump and I like that.

I suck at do it yourself stuff, like drilling tanks...I can do basic stuff like add baffles, but drilling it I know I would crack it. Reefstew has kindly offered to drill them for me. He's not promising he won't crack one but I still have a feeling he will do better than I ever could!

I really appreciate everyone's help and input in this. It's been a huge help.

Step one of this project is to remove the side of my stand to get the old sump out. I have the 2x4's cut and ready to go. It's still frightening but they should be plenty strong to take the weight. I just need about 14-15" hole to get the old stuff out.
 
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