Whose running GFO?

Reef Bass

colors and textures
And would you recommend it to others for algae reduction?

No doubt I'm on the backside of my algae outbreak. It's definitely growing more slowly. Not surprisingly, it's more of a problem in my recently setup lps tank than my established sps tank. However, sharing the same water system, it is a problem in both. I'm tired of looking at it and siphoning it out or blasting it off rocks with my turkey baster and filter socking it out.

I did an experiment last week where I left the lights off for three days straight. That definitely reduced it overall, but when I started running the lights again it came back. Not as much, but still back. My corals didn't mind too much although I noticed a difference in zoanthid and palythoa extension in the predawn when they are typically fully extended anticipating being fed. Also, I believe my sps paled a bit. Not a ton, but a little. I have already cut back an hour on my MHs and 3 hours on my actinics, and I think all my corals are slightly paler as a result.

Have any of you experienced reduced algae growth as a result of running GFO?

Thanks!

Ken
 
First you have to find the source of your phosphate/nitrate that causes the algea ... it maybe what you are feeding, make up water, dirty sandbed, ect. Try to minimize those and then do something to get rid of the rest. Make sure your skimmer is cleaned often so that it will work me efficiently.

There are several ways to get rid of phosphate. 1 is to start dosing kalk, kalk will dissipate phosphate. 2 is using phosphate remover like gfo. I am using both by the way. The way I know when to replace the gfo is when I start seeing faster algea build up on my glass.

So IMO, GFO will deffinitly reduce algea, but it has to be used in conjunction with good tank maintenance plus reducing the import of phosphate from feeding and what you are putting into the tank.
 
I've been using GFO and switched to GFO HC. The HC is more expensive and I'm not confident that it works any better than standard GFO.

How about a fuge for nutrient export?
 
Tom and Bob, thanks very much for your input and advice.

Tom, I think the big instigator for my current algae woes was the addition of my lps tank to my water system. That was a 50% increase in overall volume plus I did a 30% change on my existing tank right before adding the new tank. The timing is right on for that, with the algae bloom beginning about two weeks later and subsiding now (coming up on 3 months later). The visual identification I did of the algae in one of James' books at Caesars indicated that type of algae to be common in new tanks.

Other possiblities I've considered (and as you have pointed out) include my feeding my lps and my sandbed going bad. I was feeding my lps before adding the new tank and didn't have the algae issue then. And while my sandbed could be on its way out, I am not experiencing any issues with sudden, unexpected coral necrosis, so that seems less likely.

In the last month I replaced the needle wheel impeller on my skimmer and that has increased the amount of skimmate it is producing, which is good. Plus (as you suggested) I'm cleaning it out more frequently. I've heard an analogy to skimmer function which seems right to me. Skimmers are like garbage cans, in that waste collects there, but until the can is emptied, the waste is still present in the system. Now I'm sure the skimmate in the collection cup is removed from the system, but all the gunk in the neck is still very much in contact with the tank water, and as such has not been completely removed from the system.

The algae growth is slowing, but I am wanting to get rid of it more quickly, so I'm contemplating using gfo.

Tom, does adding / dosing kalk affect your alk and ca levels? I've heard it will drive the calcium and ph up? My pH is an incredibly steady 8.4 for the last 3 water tests I've done over 4 or 5 weeks.

Bob, I like your fuge idea. I don't have one going at the moment, although I did drop a large ball of chaeto into my sump to help soak up some of the algae fueling nutrients. I was thinking about the HC gfo but maybe I can save some money using the standard stuff. Thanks for that.

I appreciate you guys sharing your experience with me.

Ken
 
adding anything to your tank will change the chemistry, so yes kalk will change your alk/cal/ph so start slow and keep testing to find the right amount, once you have it dial in you will notice overall improvement. I use a kalk reactor that is connected to my water top off so it gets added very slowly through out the day.

Fuge will help, but you will need larger one than the one in the sump to make any significant different. I used to have an 85 gal fuge filled with chaeto and that does help a lot, but required lots of maintenance so now I use it for housing my live rocks only.
 
Gfo

Gfo

I started using standard grade GFO from BRS a while back. I will say that if phosphates are your issue you will notice a big difference with GFO. As soon as I added it to my tank I saw a significant difference and now the algae is gone and doesn't return when I stop the GFO.

The other thing is phosphates inhibit calcification so if you have them and you use GFO your coral will grow faster. I also noticed this difference. I may have been an extreme case as I started my tank with tap water cause I didn't know better. I think the GFO was the only thing that had the capacity to completely remove it from my system.

There are some inexpensive reactors on craigslist right now too.
 
Thanks Owen. I put in an order with BRS yesterday for one of their dual reactors and some gfo. I'm not sure I'll run carbon too, but if I change my mind I'll have the canister for it.

I enjoyed my "preferred member" discount on stuff (thanks to having participated in the club's group buy), though in some cases the base price was slightly higher than any multiple quantities of the item. I did not notice any particular discount for buying the in the "22nd-28th of the month" window that our original club buy occurred (not sure that's a real thing).

Fortunately, I haven't noticed a slowing in the growth of my corals. They seem to be doing great. :D

I've also heard that phosphates will cause browning, or a reduction in fluorescent pigments thus resulting in a browner appearance. My corals are slightly less bright which could be from that or having dialed back my MHs and actinics to slow the algae.

PS - still have that glass for you...
 
Thanks Ken,

I got your PM I have been busy. I have to work today and on Sunday I will be doing some work on the CNC for the sheriffs helicopter. I am trying to get the cash flow coming in to afford all the winter fun I have every year.

The BRS deal is on for us right now. I checked and all prices are as if you get the max quantity discount. I will start a thread.

I will probably grab the glass from you at the next meeting.

Thanks Ken
 
You're welcome. Good luck with your work!

Would you mind please checking the price on the BRS dual gfo / carbon reactor and let me know if you see the base price (for one) the same as the price for multiples? It was not for me, though the price for any quantity greater than one was the same on that item. I did see the same price for any quantity on some other items. One does need to login to get the preferred member discount and thus to see the discounted prices.

For me the prices didn't change before our original 22-28 purchase window and during that window. I know because I checked. In both cases I got the preferred member discount after logging in but did not notice any difference in prices before or during our original purchase window. Again, I'm not sure there's any additional discount for buying during that time frame, or at least that's not what I experienced. I ordered on the 23rd and placed my order directly with Andrew.
 
That is true. I am not sure why this item is different that the others but it is. I would write them an email if you have a question. I looked at some of the other items and they are fully discounted.
 
Ken,

FWIW I do not use GFO. I run high quality carbon and Poly Filter Pads. Here is what Poly Bio Marine says about phosphate removal.

Yes, Poly-Filter® will sorb Ortho phosphate + Hydrolyzable phosphates + Organic-bound phosphates producing an ultimate Total Phosphorus level of 0.100 mg/L the limit of detection for visual color reactions. No, Poly-Filter® is unique in its function as U.S. Patented sorbent media.
Basically, Poly-Filter® sorbs a percentage of the total phosphates per passage through the media. Other Phosphate removal media flocculate and precipitate Ortho phosphate+Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium, Barium and /or Alkalinity. This means those products actually remove valuable synthetic salt components. Poly-Filter® actually sorbs both PO 4 (ortho phosphate) + Hydrolyzable phosphates without removing Calcium, Magnesium, Strontium, Barium, Alkalinity or trace elements. The other Phosphate removers either alter seawater chemistry or produce leachable i.e. (Red) Iron Filter leaches ammonia and heavy metals. Activated Alumina leaches aluminum while sorbing bicarbonates and trace metals.

You didn't mention if you had a test kit. If not I would suggest getting a kit that goes low. I use Deltec that has a low detection of .024. When I test I get a reading of 0. If I used GFO it would only be for rapid removal of Phosphate then I would fix the problem and discontinue use.
 
Thats some great info Steve, and the kind of detail many people are unaware of or skip over.

My Salifert PO4 test shows a color inbetween 0 and the next level up (0.03). I've heard many people say that if the Salifert test shows any color, one has a phosphate issue.

GFO is already on the UPS truck, so I'll put it to use and contemplate discontinuing it after my algae clears up.
 
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