Ellemarley
New member
I've seen over and over on here that API test kits are crap, but am not sure why? What makes them so vastly inaccurate vs other kits? Just curious.
Why are API test kits 'crap?'
- Thread starter Ellemarley
- Start date
Dapg8gt
New member
The accuracy.. Well repeated accuracy on the same sample in my experience.. I tried a back up calcium one I have that was unopened and it read 300,then 330 etc.. My Salifert and red sea are off by 20 ppm of each other 420 & 440. About a 100ppm difference. I do use the nitrate randomly just because and it's close to the red sea one @ 10ish
Plus why buy a few hundred dollars worth of coral/fish or a grand +(a lot more most of the time) on a tank and good equipment to buy the cheapest test kits. I think they are OK for some things but if you have coral and are testing cal/alk/mag and are going for stability why even risk it.
That's just my opinion though some people love them but I think most who want the best for the inhabitants and are serious and experienced don't risk using them exclusively. All just my feelings about them though.
Plus why buy a few hundred dollars worth of coral/fish or a grand +(a lot more most of the time) on a tank and good equipment to buy the cheapest test kits. I think they are OK for some things but if you have coral and are testing cal/alk/mag and are going for stability why even risk it.
That's just my opinion though some people love them but I think most who want the best for the inhabitants and are serious and experienced don't risk using them exclusively. All just my feelings about them though.
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ChimolaFish
New member
They aren't crap, they just are a little harder to read. I'm cycling my tank right now, so it's ok for me to not be super precise, but I'll be looking into a 'better' test kit when the time comes to add corals
desertrat505
New member
The 5 ml line on the vials are not right. I used 3 different measuring devices and filled the vials. They all measured above the line printed on the vials
MinnFish
Member
I Agee 1000%. I have done the same test and they failed for the same reason. I'm no fan of API. Like I have said they are ok for freshwater and novices.
It seems like it really matters what you want the test for. I think the ammonia test is just fine -- I don't need a precise reading, I just want to know if my tank is registering ammonia, and if so roughly how much. Same with nitrite (though I don't test that). For stuff where I want to test and then use that reading to perhaps adjust the levels in my tank, I want something more accurate.
Accuracy accuracy accuracy. Thats why.
Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate work for a basis on cycling but if you are having a real problem with those, they arent that good.
Second example, I tried the calcium, magnesium and alk. After doing mulitple tests with in minutes of each other and getting different results each time, they fail on accuracy. Knowing if you have 420 or 380 on calcium is going to make a huge difference or if alk is 8 or 11.
Third example. Copper test with using a QT to treat ich. API kits go up to .5 I believe. Well how you do know your first dose is reaching .1 or .4?? It could mean the difference between treating ich and getting rid of it, to killing your fish with no real accuracy on knowing what levels the copper is at.
Another one that is waaaaay off the charts, phosphate API kit. In a low nutrient system you want .03-.06 for phosphates. .1 will do for most other systems but may result in algae problems. Also phopshates are hard to get a "true" reading for. API kits go from 0 to .25. Where is the accuracy?
These are reason why they fail on accuracy and accuracy on a reef can make the difference.
Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate work for a basis on cycling but if you are having a real problem with those, they arent that good.
Second example, I tried the calcium, magnesium and alk. After doing mulitple tests with in minutes of each other and getting different results each time, they fail on accuracy. Knowing if you have 420 or 380 on calcium is going to make a huge difference or if alk is 8 or 11.
Third example. Copper test with using a QT to treat ich. API kits go up to .5 I believe. Well how you do know your first dose is reaching .1 or .4?? It could mean the difference between treating ich and getting rid of it, to killing your fish with no real accuracy on knowing what levels the copper is at.
Another one that is waaaaay off the charts, phosphate API kit. In a low nutrient system you want .03-.06 for phosphates. .1 will do for most other systems but may result in algae problems. Also phopshates are hard to get a "true" reading for. API kits go from 0 to .25. Where is the accuracy?
These are reason why they fail on accuracy and accuracy on a reef can make the difference.
dirk_brijs
Active member
what other test kits are recommended as alternative?
Red Sea pro, Salifert, and Hanna Checkers.
Seachem also for a copper test kit with use with Cupramine.
Puffdragon
New member
I have used them for years. My club did a test using several different kits and different groups testing water from the same tanks. We discovered it was as much to do with method and how well the individual could see color change than the kits. With that said, the spectrophotometers like the Hanna eggs or other brands were much more accurate.
API test kits are fine for getting you in the ballpark, but are not designed to the higher degree of accuracy that you get with the more expensive test kits (Salifert, Red Sea Pro and Elos). For cycling a tank API ammonia and nitrite tests are fine; you don't really need accuracy, you just want to know if there is ammonia and nitrites present or not. When you start keeping stony corals and need accurate tests to determine the correct dosing of supplemental elements I would start to use a higher quality test kit.
API is a high range "total copper test kit", which means it's only really suitable for measuring chelated copper i.e. Coppersafe. Coppersafe's effective range is 1.5-2.0 mg/L, and the API copper test kit tops out at 4.0 mg/L.
However, API cannot accurately register fully charged (ionic) copper (i.e. Cupramine), because the effective range for that is much lower (0.35-0.5 mg/L). Best to use either Seachem or Salifert copper test kit for Cupramine. Those are sensitive to less than 0.01 mg/L, and top out at 0.80 mg/L. However, the 0.80 mg/L limitation also means you can't use those test kits to measure Coppersafe.
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My point behind the copper test kit was it goes from 0-.5. Thats not a safe test.
But your point is valid. Just pointing out the obvious of why it isnt a good copper test kit.
SGT_York
New member
API calcium and Alk tests have been reliable or close enough to Salifert to not cause concern.
The main issue is the Nitrate and Phosphate tests as mentioned above, they are fine if you are doing a FOWLR tank, but if you want coral in particular stoney coral the calcium skeleton growth are inhibited or stopped before phosphate even registers on the test. .25 for phosphate lowest color.
They will not be in the correct scale if you want a mixed or stony reef. Salifert is .02 much more informative. You know with salifert with API you just know it is less than .25.
The main issue is the Nitrate and Phosphate tests as mentioned above, they are fine if you are doing a FOWLR tank, but if you want coral in particular stoney coral the calcium skeleton growth are inhibited or stopped before phosphate even registers on the test. .25 for phosphate lowest color.
They will not be in the correct scale if you want a mixed or stony reef. Salifert is .02 much more informative. You know with salifert with API you just know it is less than .25.
I big time disagree. Knowing you alk is reading 11 or 14 on API when its really 8 makes a HUGE difference. Or if your calcium is 380 or 420. That isnt close enough.
Close enough only is good in horseshoes or grenades
G_Sanab922
New member
Like others said, the 5mL line is incorrect. Just to skim the surface here and not go into specifics, if you haven't taken your chemistry classes and other basic sciences then it could be your method. There are certain ways to measure things and if you don't know then you will get readings that aren't correct for what is intended.
That's why when I use my API test kit I have a measuring syringe to put the right amount. I do agree that the colors are difficult to read though. Once my tank is more mature and I finish with my current API I will then move on to more detailed test kits.
+1 on what SGT_York said
That's why when I use my API test kit I have a measuring syringe to put the right amount. I do agree that the colors are difficult to read though. Once my tank is more mature and I finish with my current API I will then move on to more detailed test kits.
+1 on what SGT_York said
