Will freshwater dip remove hydroids from plants?

[babyhead]

How long would you have to keep the plants dipped to kill hydroids? How long could you keep the plants in freshwater before they became seriously damaged (or in the case of caleurpa, maybe start going sexual). I would think plants could withstand longer dips than fish, but I have no experience doing it.
What do you think?

 

[TamiW]

My experience has been the opposite, freshwater dips, even short ones, are horrible for marine algae. Perhaps a true plant would fair better, but macros don't seem to.

I would instead recommend a fenbendazole soak for a few days.

 

[Wink]

Freshwater for 15 minutes will not kill hydroids. I've never tried it for a longer period.
Three days in fenbendazole (actual name of Panacur) will do the trick. You can now get liquid fenbendazole from http://www.seahorsesource.com It's much easier to use then the granules. Be sure to rinse well after the treatment if your tank containes any Panacur sensitive critters.

 

[babyhead]

Thanks! That's what I'll do. I wonder if you can get that at pet Supermarket, or PetCo, or some place like that?

 

[Wink]

I've yet to find a store that carries it. Apparently the "normal" version is made for dogs and cats as a dewormer but it's dangerous for the pets if used improperly so the pet stores don't carry it - most think it's prescription only but it's not. You can sometimes find the granules at a feedstore (for livestock deworming) - don't buy the paste as the med is not distributed evenly in the paste so dosing is impossible. We did get some granules locally from a vet - but due to the dosing difficulties (ever try to measure 1/32 of a teaspoon? and then it won't dissolve properly) it's just so much easier to buy the liquid - which I believe is only available from Dan at Seahorse Source.

 

[TamiW]

I've used the paste numerous times. You must emulsufy it (shake it up in a container of water) really well but otherwise works great. Its also tested safe at some absurd number of times the recommended dose in horses, and is generally safe even if the dose isn't exactly right.

I've never heard of problems with the paste separating; and I've known people that use the "single dose" (which actually says right on the box it can be divided in the case of foals, etc . . ) for dogs, reptiles, and fish and it was never a concern.

 

[BruceW]

I had a fish bowl with hydroids on the sides that I filled with FW and left overnight in the sink. The droids were still alive the next morning.

 

[Big Ying]

I saw some in the WalMart pet section last night. It was the granules.

 

[Yomeister66]

How would you get rid of hydroids if you wouldn't be able to remove the rocks they're on?

 

[TamiW]

I would treat the entire tank. I have done just that. However, it will kill certain other invertibrates, snails and gorgonians are some off the top of my head. Probably most other beneficial worms as well as it is a dewormer.

 

[DanU]

I went with liquid (suspension) Panacur (fenbendazole) over the granules for several reasons. First, it is more cost effective. It takes such a small amount (0.1 ml will treat 10 gal). Second, it is easier to dose and I find it takes less using the liquid. Third, the granules are considered insoluble in water and the liquid suspension is already disolved (The granules will eliminate hydroids though).

I have had great success FW dipping macro algaes. No issues with the macros but FW dipping will not eliminate hydroids. A 3 day Tx of panacur with the macros will eliminate them. After treatment, give them a rinse and put them in a new non contaminated setup.

I can't give any first hand experience as far as tank mates goes since I use all barebottom systems.

The liquid (suspension) is most commonly found in farm supply stores. It comes in a 125 ml bottle of 10% Panacur. Far more than most will ever use in aquatics. This form is labeled and most commonly used for goats.

Most of the literature I have found warns that the paste is not always evenly distributed.

I wish I had more time and the occurance of hydroids more often so I could do more testing. I suspect, an even smaller dose of panacur could do the trick if using the liquid. If the dose could get small enough, it would have less of an impact on the tank mates. Thus far, I have found 1 mg/gal will eradicate them.

Dan

 

[Yomeister66]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7759608#post7759608 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FishGrrl
I would treat the entire tank. I have done just that. However, it will kill certain other invertibrates, snails and gorgonians are some off the top of my head. Probably most other beneficial worms as well as it is a dewormer.

So treat the whole colony with liquid Panacur (sp?)......I don't worry to much about the snails and gorgonians....but the invertibrates is another thing....got a mixed reef with a clam, RBTA, shrimp, sea star, serpent, etc. Not sure if I should risk it?

Yeah, I know this is the seahorse forum, but I as doing research for a possible seahorse nano when I came across this thread)

Cheers,

Johan

 

[Samala]

Hey gang, since we have a lot of panacur using folks gathered in this thread, I wanted to ask:

How long will panacur/fenbendazole remain active on treated macroalgae?

I know it can sink itself into porous substrate and rock and remain there and active in a display or quarantine system for a long time. But.. on the surface of a living thing.. does it remain active as well? If you put treated macro into a 'natural' system are you risking any corals, snails, and other panacur-sensitive invertebrates?

Just to satisfy my own curiousity..

>Sarah

 

[TamiW]

No, I wouldn't risk it. If it were me, I'd treat for hydroids after the rocks but before anything else went in.

But many of your inhabitants aren't seahorse friendly; the clam and the rbta stand out, and the serpent star might be a problem.

 

[Yomeister66]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7761701#post7761701 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FishGrrl
No, I wouldn't risk it. If it were me, I'd treat for hydroids after the rocks but before anything else went in.

But many of your inhabitants aren't seahorse friendly; the clam and the rbta stand out, and the serpent star might be a problem.

Thanks Tami.

Didn't plan on putting seahorses into my reef tank. Doing research for a dedicated seahorse tank but figured I'd jump on this thread since it applies to a current problem I'm having (hydroids in an established reef tank where I can't really remove the rocks) Guess I'll stick with the old method and keep pulling them off every week or so)

 

[TamiW]

Why are they causing a problem in a reef tank? I've not heard of them causing a problem before except for fry and dwarf seahorses. And if they're really bad, chances are the tank is being overfed anyway.

THere are hydroid eating nudibranchs, you may also want to consider looking into those. However, I don't know how easy they are to find.

 

[Yomeister66]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7761795#post7761795 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FishGrrl
Why are they causing a problem in a reef tank? I've not heard of them causing a problem before except for fry and dwarf seahorses.

THere are hydroid eating nudibranchs, you may also want to consider looking into those. However, I don't know how easy they are to find.

They're not causing any problems they just look like C$%p. Never heard of the nudibranches but I guess I can look into that. In the meantime I'll cut back on the feeding (For some reason, Krusty the Clowntang is giving me a dirty look as I type this )

 

[DanU]

The nudibranchs are probably Berghia. They are obligate feeders on aptasia. A little slow to start but once they get going they will clean up a tank.

Sarah, great question. I don't know the exact answer, but if it were me, I would move the macros to another tank for a period. I would think as it grows, you could just harvest new sections to seed the tank.

Dan