Will my sump overflow?

[klam114]

I've been seeing a lot of success with the H&S denitrator units. You have space for one now. My skimmer dealer ran a test on his 180g display tank and it brought his nitrates down from 65ppm to 7ppm in 6 weeks and it stayed between 5-7ppm thereafter.

In an emergency situation with a politically VIP, their company was brought in to remedy, they pulled that cycled denitrator and put it on a 75g tank with 85ppm nitrates and 2 weeks later, it was 0ppm and has been 0ppm since. Water changes were cut to 1/2 as often and 1/2 the amount of water used.

 

[Leopard Man]

That's impressive. Yup, the probs with some BB systems is excess nitrates, if it's not setup properly - usually due to inadaquete flow and a small and/or inefficient skimmer for their tanks.

Hopfully my BB setup will be ok, so I won't have to bother with anything. The space will be saved for a kalk reactor and ATO.

Cheers

 

[klam114]

kalkstirrer is a great addition, but you need something to export nitrates if not using a fuge. otherwise, large weekly water changes to keep nitrates down.

a good kalkstirrer that is like the deltec model:
aquamedic kalkwasser stirrer 1000
http://www.customaquatic.com/customaquatic/brandsubcategory.asp?brandID=AM&subcatID=cr-kr

take a look a the denitrator thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=906253

 

[Leopard Man]

Checked them out!

Looks good and will definitely consider them. Thanks a lot.

 

[klam114]

don't forget a fluidized reactor for carbon filtration and removing phosphates. this unit is very inexpensive in USA, not sure if it is available in Hong Kong.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=TL4411

 

[Leopard Man]

Yup, it's available here. We get that brand and it's slightly cheaper here too.

Cheers Klam.

 

[klam114]

I noticed that you are really concerned about heat transfer. I guess in Asian, temps would be quite high sometimes. For those who do not need to use a chiller, meaning they are borderline on whether their system requires a chiller or not, they just use one or two clip on fans over the sump and the evaporation will cool their system.

 

[Leopard Man]

Yeah, you bet!

I got a Teco TR15 to do the job. It's rated 300w and claims to chill max 200Gs, so it's ok for my 50G display and 15-20G sump. The past 3 months, ambient temp has been 37C! Sometimes in 40C.

I can't afford tunzes for power heads so will go for Koralias as they are energy efficient, and emit little heat.

The plus side of living in Asia is things here are cheaper. I got my Deltec AP600 for about $US 450.

 

[klam114]

OK, quit rubbing it in. I know that Deltec is overprice in USA, that's why I bought a H&S A110 $460 instead of the Deltec AP600 $614. H&S is cheaper than Deltec in USA. I believe what you pay full retail in Asia is what our dealers are paying wholesale in USA. lol

I use Koralias, not as strong as Tunzes, but still very efficient. For BB, you need at least 2x K4s.

 

[Leopard Man]

Hehe. Was thinking of 4 x k4s. Is that overkill on a 36x18x18? I also have 2 seio 1500s and 3 seio 620s lying around in my store room. But the 1500s emit 26W each, so they're out of the question.

 

[Leopard Man]

Ok guys,

Thanks for all your help. Here is my sump revised. Note that the sump is now 20 gallons. I sold my riohf return and am thinking of getting a eheim 1250. The skimmer and eheim will still be outside.

Please comment:

 

[sjm817]

I'd be far more concerned about the heat from a 400W MH, than the negligible if any difference you would will see by running a couple of low watt water cooled pumps external vs internal.

 

[Leopard Man]

Yup, I'll have DC fans as well blowing to the sump, and the MH will be elevated at least 15" off the water, the MH fixture has a built in fan.