Woodworking question
- Thread starter bshumake
- Start date
ducklabdad
New member
I would rough sand it before I put the Kilz on it. I would also recommend you use the Kilz that is NOT water soluable especially with a Saltwater tank.
Cabin3tGuy
New member
Kilz is NOT soluble once its cured ...
If the stand needs to be rough sanded (60-150grit) you cannot leave that as a final treatment before priming... you need to finish sand with 220 or finer b4 you put any applications on it ... and use 400 grit sponge between coats of paint to take out brush marks
<---- paint the fence----> long strokes ... whole side go :uzi:
Kilz is a primer not a waterproofing treatment ... the sealer inside it is meant to seal out stains on your material or walls ... I dont know if I would use the original or exterior versions for the same reason you only use pure silicone in aquariums and not products like GE II ... mold inhibitors and additives ... I personally would feel more comfortable with the water based interior version if you want to use it as a primer .... Just for the fact that you clean it up with soap and water .... Blindside is your expert though whatever he says is gospel for me on paint
You typically use a waterproofing agent on bare hardwoods that have been stained and are constantly exposed to the elements like on decks or patios ... not anything we run into our hobby .... If your cabinet is constantly exposed any ply will separate regardless so your not saving anything by sealing the veneer since it just a 3mm layer of the 3/4" material ... I seriously doubt any of the more popular treatments found at the hardware store like Thompson's Seal would be safe to use inside let alone around your aquarium .... marine grade epoxy is really the only safe way to actually water proof a stand and then its not really cost effective and it has to go on before the stand is painted .... then you have issues with what will adhere to it and peeling becomes a factor
Using a higher quality paint that is more resilient to wear is where you be should looking...but if your seriously worried about humidity and/or salt creep staining the paint just varnish it and caulk your seams to block moisture from getting in joints .. I really wouldn't bother with it though
The Cabinetguy has spoken.... lol j/k
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ducklabdad
New member
I still Stand behind my original Statement that I would use the "Non water soluable Kilz " Meaning the "Oil Based" instead of the Latex version. It is true as Jason stated that it is "Not Water Soluble when cured"
However: There solubillity tests are "NOT" under the high salinity and constant Humidity that we are putting it under and my recommendation would be to not use the Latex version., and I would use the Exterior grade Oil Based as well!!
But here is the link to the specs on this and there recommendations, you can take it from there.
http://www.kilz.com/
I should have been specific when I said "rough sand" and I was not, Jason is correct on the sanding> I should have just said that I would recommend "light sanding instead of Rough"
I certatinly defer to the "experts" "Please don't shoot I surrender":rollface:
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Mako Shark II
Fish are Friends not Food
Ryan's right! Quit over thinking this. (You’re hurting my brain!)
Start sanding before and in-between coats, and don’t stop until you have the very last coat to go.
Process:
Gradient sanding from 60-80-120-240-320-400-800.....
Sand. (60-80-120)
Prime.
Sand. (240 lightly)
Prime.
Sand. (320)
Top-coat.
Sand. (400)
Tack-rag.
Top-coat.
Sand. (800)
Tack-rag.
Top-coat.
Results:
Five Spray Coats applied: 2 Coats of Exterior Grade KILZ, followed by 3 Coats of Semi-Gloss Oil Based paint by Porter Paints. (Cover Everything & wear protective gear!)
This is what Six Coats looks like on my canopy, and EXTERIOR KILZ & OIL based paint won’t care if is a salt environment, once it's cured. Besides, it’s not like you won’t have fans inside the canopy!
P.S. â€"œ Don’t forget the caulk & water putty in the joints before you start. Barrett call me if you have any questions.
Start sanding before and in-between coats, and don’t stop until you have the very last coat to go.
Process:
Gradient sanding from 60-80-120-240-320-400-800.....
Sand. (60-80-120)
Prime.
Sand. (240 lightly)
Prime.
Sand. (320)
Top-coat.
Sand. (400)
Tack-rag.
Top-coat.
Sand. (800)
Tack-rag.
Top-coat.
Results:
Five Spray Coats applied: 2 Coats of Exterior Grade KILZ, followed by 3 Coats of Semi-Gloss Oil Based paint by Porter Paints. (Cover Everything & wear protective gear!)
This is what Six Coats looks like on my canopy, and EXTERIOR KILZ & OIL based paint won’t care if is a salt environment, once it's cured. Besides, it’s not like you won’t have fans inside the canopy!
P.S. â€"œ Don’t forget the caulk & water putty in the joints before you start. Barrett call me if you have any questions.
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