Would these specific tools work for project?

[rickztahone]

I am in need of a hole saw and saw blade for some bulkhead holes and for cutting some baffles/overflows in acrylic.

I stopped by Lowes and found some hole saw's that may work. I didn't want to buy them unless I knew they would work for what I am looking to drill. If anyone can point me in the right direction of the type of hole saws I should be looking at if these aren't it, I'd glady appreciate it. These are the ones that Lowes is offering. I would have to buy the drill bit as well because the hole saw I couldn't have would not fit my pilot bit.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_588200-3130...ct_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=1&facetInfo=Spyder

Secondly, I was also looking at saw blades. I have read in a few places that I should be looking for carbine, and a higher tooth count. Again, just to be on the safe side, would this saw work for cutting acrylic?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFCMTHY...colid=UO4Z3YNWDDIR&coliid=IN7BDQZGMPW5Q&psc=1

I only need these tools for this project, so I am looking for something that is cost effective.

Please advise and thank you for your time.

 

[thejuggernaut]

Is it for a constructed sump, or are you going to be cutting it into a flat piece of acrylic? Reason I ask is because you could probably take the acrylic to a CNC guy to cut whatever you need, and it will look allot better than anything hand cut.

 

[Gorgok]

The hole saw will work, but just about any will work. Only thing to avoid is letting it build up heat rubbing chips instead of clearing chips. Pecking to clear the hole can help with that.

The saw blade looks fine too. Only thing to keep in mind is it has a little negative rake, which many suggest for acrylic but it will perform different than normal blades. Its more likely to want to lift or push back the piece instead of press down or pull in.

 

[rickztahone]

Is it for a constructed sump, or are you going to be cutting it into a flat piece of acrylic? Reason I ask is because you could probably take the acrylic to a CNC guy to cut whatever you need, and it will look allot better than anything hand cut.

I have the 40g breeder tank already which will serve as a sump. I need to cut the baffles, all 5 of them and I already bought the acrylic.

The hole saw will work, but just about any will work. Only thing to avoid is letting it build up heat rubbing chips instead of clearing chips. Pecking to clear the hole can help with that.

The saw blade looks fine too. Only thing to keep in mind is it has a little negative rake, which many suggest for acrylic but it will perform different than normal blades. Its more likely to want to lift or push back the piece instead of press down or pull in.

Great to know about the hole saw. I will buy both from Lowes. The pilot bit they have for that specific tool looks rather large. Should I be aiming for a thinner bit here?

"Pecking to clear the hole can help with that" I am not quite sure what this means. Would you mind explaining it to me? Would you recommend another saw blade instead of this one that is somewhat in the same price range? I will be cutting these with a table saw if that makes a difference.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Gorgok]

Pecking is just as it sounds, drilling a bit and lifting the bit out of the cut to free the chips. Repeat until done. Its especially useful if the chips don't clear by themselves because its gummy or something, which hot acrylic becomes.

The pilot size won't matter much, it will be through the material before the hole saw itself and no longer cause any issues.

I think the blade is fine, you won't find anything better or priced better at lowes i would think. Raising the blade will make it lift less, but push back more, which is probably preferable if working with smaller/lighter pieces. This is the blade i use: Freud Diablo 80 non-ferrous Its basically identical to that one you have linked, TCG carbide teeth, little negative rake and high tooth count.

 

[rickztahone]

Pecking is just as it sounds, drilling a bit and lifting the bit out of the cut to free the chips. Repeat until done. Its especially useful if the chips don't clear by themselves because its gummy or something, which hot acrylic becomes.

The pilot size won't matter much, it will be through the material before the hole saw itself and no longer cause any issues.

I think the blade is fine, you won't find anything better or priced better at lowes i would think. Raising the blade will make it lift less, but push back more, which is probably preferable if working with smaller/lighter pieces. This is the blade i use: Freud Diablo 80 non-ferrous Its basically identical to that one you have linked, TCG carbide teeth, little negative rake and high tooth count.

Thank you. You have been a great help.

I'd hate to start another thread just for this, so I'll ask here. Would you happen to know how I could find out if the piece of acrylic I bought is extruded or cell cast? I only ask because I was specifically looking for cell cast (after research here) and I ended up getting a piece 15" by 8ft for $50. I asked 3 seperate times and they told me it was cell cast, but the reason I ask is because it feels too flexible. I bought 1/4" and I could only find it in white unfortunately, but I find it to be really flexible. IF, this were to turn out to be extruded, cutting with the saw wouldn't be any different correct?

 

[Gorgok]

At 8' long even plywood is pretty flexible... I don't know of a way to ID extruded from cast though.

 

[billdogg]

The saw blade will work fine for cutting acrylic. What is it you are planning on cutting the hole in? If it's acrylic also, it will be just fine as well. If it, on the other hand, is the 40b you are using as a sump, the only thing it will do is bust the glass panel you are drilling into 10,000 little pieces. A glass cutting hole saw will be diamond encrusted - it actually grinds it's way through.

FWIW - I have made sumps using standard glass tanks with both acrylic and glass baffles. Although the acrylic will work, it is far from ideal. Glass on glass wins hands down.

hth

 

[rickztahone]

The saw blade will work fine for cutting acrylic. What is it you are planning on cutting the hole in? If it's acrylic also, it will be just fine as well. If it, on the other hand, is the 40b you are using as a sump, the only thing it will do is bust the glass panel you are drilling into 10,000 little pieces. A glass cutting hole saw will be diamond encrusted - it actually grinds it's way through.

FWIW - I have made sumps using standard glass tanks with both acrylic and glass baffles. Although the acrylic will work, it is far from ideal. Glass on glass wins hands down.

hth

Thanks. The 40g is acrylic, same as the DT

 

[AZRippster]

For making holes in acrylic, short of CNC or router, Forstner bits will produce the cleanest cut and least amount of melting.

 

[sleepydoc]

+1 Router with a spiral bit is best. I've also heard of people using a hole saw and spraying water to keep in cool and prevent melting the acrylic.

 

[thejuggernaut]

Thank you. You have been a great help.

I'd hate to start another thread just for this, so I'll ask here. Would you happen to know how I could find out if the piece of acrylic I bought is extruded or cell cast? I only ask because I was specifically looking for cell cast (after research here) and I ended up getting a piece 15" by 8ft for $50. I asked 3 seperate times and they told me it was cell cast, but the reason I ask is because it feels too flexible. I bought 1/4" and I could only find it in white unfortunately, but I find it to be really flexible. IF, this were to turn out to be extruded, cutting with the saw wouldn't be any different correct?

What kind of covering is on the acrylic. If it is a translucent plastic then it is probably extruded. Cast acrylic usually has paper covering on it. While there are probably some exceptions, this will be the norm.

 

[thejuggernaut]

A few suggestions about cutting the baffles. Make them so they have about a 3/8" gap when in the tank. Acrylic will absorb water and expand over time and if it is tight fitting, it will crack the tank. Also, I would chop off the bottom corners of the baffles, that way they will be have clearance around the silicone bead around the bottom of the tank.

 

[rickztahone]

What kind of covering is on the acrylic. If it is a translucent plastic then it is probably extruded. Cast acrylic usually has paper covering on it. While there are probably some exceptions, this will be the norm.

The one I purchased had that translucent paper you are referring to. If that is the case, I am thinking I overpaid.

 

[rickztahone]

A few suggestions about cutting the baffles. Make them so they have about a 3/8" gap when in the tank. Acrylic will absorb water and expand over time and if it is tight fitting, it will crack the tank. Also, I would chop off the bottom corners of the baffles, that way they will be have clearance around the silicone bead around the bottom of the tank.

Great to know. I could possibly get away with mapping out my cuts on the long sheet of acrylic, and the saw blade spacing may just serve as the diameter needed for the expansion?

Also a great suggestion about chopping out the corners for clearance.

Thanks again.